Search results

I cut the little tab off an alfine one designed for vertical dropouts, the wheels is running at a bit of an angle after 11,000 miles because they're not that good quality.

At 8:14 Ok no pawls as you say sorry, unike my Bosch Classic. I guess my assumption that these one way bearings are more reliable is misplaced

That's not true they have a freewheel like in the rear cassette on most bikes. Their newer motors have what I believe is a more reliable freewheel system. I have 11,000 miles on my Bosch Classic which also has pawls too.

I agree, that is why I put the question mark, as in measure the actual external width, it was a wild guess on my part, have to say I'm amazed they fit such wide tyres to such narrow rims. Still happy with my advice on tyre sizing though.

2" is still huge and will fit. If it were me I'd go to 1.5" or less. Don't buy a tyre narrower than the width of your rim which I'm guessing is around 30 to 35mm wide? Look at the weight of the tyres when choosing.

From the Conti range something like this in 1.3 x 26, there will be lots of other options from other manufacturers. Edit, These are really light https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-durano-raceguard-folding-tyre/rp-prod175547 or these...

I run these on my hybrid in a 700 28 size, my bike came with chunkier tyres and these made the bike a fair bit faster and easier. I find the grip really good in all road conditions. https://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/commuting-touring/contact-ii

Given you will be mainly riding on the road you may also want to look at more suitable tyres at some point.

L-shaped brackets attached to those rear facing lower mounting holes, and a bolt into the threaded hole on the rear of the fork bridge. Although if you're using the bike for serious off road stuff and lots of mud they won't be suitable, I had thought the bike was a hybrid, but see it is more...

29" is actually 700C ;) these are the best https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sks-chromoplastic-mudguards/rp-prod25793

Dependant on the shape of the bars it is simply a case of moving the brake levers and gear changer inwards a little, remove the grips, cut off the end of the bars by the amount you've moved the levers and then refit the grips.

A 17" frame seems small for someone 5' 10". I'd trim the width of the bars a little if there's scope to, a new bike is not the answer.

As a starter go with the 16T rear sprocket https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Alfine-Nexus-Single-Cog-Rear-Sprocket-for-Internal-Hub-Gears-16T-23T-/192364744818 Then if you need more change the front one too, the system won't be affected by the change.

Was about to say pulleys and belts aren't so cheap but you edited before I could quote you Nealh :)

Surely it will be better to buy a more suitable bike? what's the cost of converting to 11-speed? £500+ ?

I tweaked every spoke on my friends Orbea Gain whilst she was in the supermarket, took me about 10 minutes, every spoke was loose and the rear wheel was tinkling as she rode, wheels have been fine since.

Not sure to be honest, I know my Bosch classic can come alive when moving the bike too, forget the exact scenario that does it though.

I I see that the battery lights come on in reverse IMG_2626.TRIM by Mike5100, on Flickr

That's a staggering amount of time, how many miles does that equate to? I'd be lucky to make it last an hour with no rider input.

The Orbea Gain I tried was a nice low assist bike, full power climbing power I would say is less than half power (tour mode) on my old Bosch Classic so well below the tour on your CX motor. From what I've read the Evation motor gives similar assist to the Orbea.