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That's a normal direct drive motor. They all cog in both directions to a greater or lesser extent. If you get more resistance than the normal cogging and the motor is disconnected, then there is a short on the phase wires somewhere. When the cable isn't connected, it's easy for the bullet...

The point is that stems don't break. You've invented something that doesn't happen then tried to extrapolate it to hub motors and 30 cell batteries that also don't break when you run them at 12A.

What motor is it then?

You shouldn't get confused between watts from the battery and watts from the motor. There is no direct relationship. When you bring the word "continuous" into the requirement, it means in all normal riding circumstances, including going up steep hills. In other words, the motor needs to be able...

It sounds like the clutch is sticking. Is the juddering the same whether you rotate the wheel backwards or forwards when it does it.

I repaired a motorbike rack that broke when I accidentally tried to drive away with my lock through the rack and wheel. It lasted many years after the repair. I simply bandaged it with fibreglass. It didn't look fantastic, but it was functional. You can always paint it afterwards. You could...

The controller overheats when the motor connector is not in far enough or the connector at the controller end is compromised, so check that first. It was found to be the cause of the other guy's problem with the same symptoms as yours. next thing to check is that you haven't burnt the battery...

That's complete rubbish. When has anybody's stem ever broken without crashing first. Anyway, things like that don't have a 40% chance of failure.

The shop I used to work in sold those Eskutas. They're perfectly legal in all respects as long as you don't change anything. They have 250w motors. They have the necessary manufacturer's plate. They stop giving power at 15.5 mph. The power is only given when you pedal. That makes them 100%...

You can't make a rule like that. It depends on how much torque the motor makes and how strong the drop-outs are. My guidelines would be: Running at 36v and 12A or less (450w from battery) strong aluminium forks are probably OK. Up to 600w from the battery would require a torque arm or some...

The axle might be the right way up, but with cable like that water will go in. The cable MUST go downwards from the axle, not horizontal. I would bring it from under the chainstay, not over it.

About 12 years ago Kudos made a bike with a carbon frame and a 3kg downtube-mounted battery. They also made the same bike with an aluminium frame. There were no problems with the aluminium frame, but the rivnuts ripped out of a large number of the carbon frames. Eventually, Kudos sold off all...

If you're doing a conversion, you need to put a 12mm washer on the axle inside the left side drop-out. That's normally enough to line it up perfectly. You always start the axle spacing on the left side to get the disc to line up with the caliper when fitting a new motor. If that not what you...

It was about 7 years ago. The controller had been potted, but not well enough. There was a bit missing just where the MOSFET was. The guy had been riding in the rain. The dirty or salty water got in and shorted the MOSFET, which is right at the bottom, where the water would collect. The guy...

I've tried every type of magnet disc. I can't say I've ever noticed any difference between them regarding smoothness and response time. I'm guessing that anybody, who came to that conclusion, probably changed the controller at the same time, and the difference came from the controller, not the...

You might get some ideas from this one. He made a limited slip differential out of bike freewheels in another video; however, I think he made a mistake with the brake because the wheels can still freewheel when the brake is on, and you can see that he didn't have a back brake when testing. You'd...

All over the country councils are no longer maintaining the roads. It can't be a money problem because my council doesn’t suffer from that constraint. It must be something from C40 Cities or something like that. We can counter by using fatbikes, which will start to become a necessity in a few...

You're right to consider the dangers. When anybody does modifications, they need to be sure about what they're doing. I wouldn't recommend anything unless I was sure it's safe. Anybody, who's unsure should seek advice first. When I started on ebikes 14 years ago, we were all pioneers. We pushed...

To get the BB out, you need a bolt and washers to hold the tool in. Then you need the longest arm you can get on the socket or spanner to turn it, then you whack it in the clockwise direction (top side forward) with a lump-hammer. I've never seen or heard of one that didn't have a left hand...

If you buy new forks, they have a long steerer tube that you normally have to cut down with a hacksaw. If you buy used ones, you need to make sure that the steerer tube is long enough because it's probably already been cut down. You will have to get some spacers to set the stem in the right...