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The setting is the one for phase angle 60deg or 120deg. I don't have the manual handy, so I can't tell you which parameter, but ifyou look at your manual, it can't be hard to find. I reckon it's the connection sequence anyway. You have to go through all the combinations until you find one that...

And a face guard! It's not just the safety aspect. The gyroscopic effect of the motor can have a profound effect on the steering and handling of the bike, especially on lightweight bikes. Steering geometry seems to play a significant factor in that too. Some bikes are a lot worse than others.

Are you saying that it took 27 seconds longer with the power switched off, otherwise the only explanation for it taking longer is that you forgot to switch it on? It still doesn't make sense that you spent all that money on the conversion, to then get a slower ride with no help. I'm missing...

Every bike is different. You can't use general rules. Some carbon forks have metal inserts for the drop-outs, and some have thin structure and no strength to resist torque. Front motors are pretty bad on most bikes. It's best to avoid if you can.

You should never take an ebike anywhere near salt water, especially a Chinese bike.

From the battery, not output power.

First of all, make sure that both 9-pin connectors are in all the way to the line. If it's not that you either have the wrong phase angle in the settings or you have the wrong connection sequence on your hall and phase wires, which will be a problem to sort out if you have sealed connectors at...

AKM100 can't run at 48v and 20A because it wears the gears too fast even for a light rider on a light bike. 15A is the maximum. Even then, it wouldn't be the best motor to drive two riders and a tandem up a hill. AKM 128 would be fine, but it's not really legal. Any medium sized motor would be...

Nonsense.

One day you'll get it. You're not ready yet.

The power varies with motor speed. The faster it spins, the less current it can take. In other words the power is regulated by the motor speed independently of the controller. Whichever of the two allows the lower power, that's what you get. At low speed, the controller normally wins, and the...

That's right, twist the knife after you've dug it in. All you need now is the salt to rub in.

It looks OK, but it didn't show the controller current, which is the thing that determines how much power you get, neither does it show the motor's speed, which is another important characteristic. It's probably OK, but without that information, you can't be sure. You could get a completely...

You don't need to do that. You can buy signal generator modules on Ebay for about £3 that conveniently run off 5v, so have the same three wires as a pedal sensor. You can put a switch on the 5v wire, then either plug it in to the pedal sensor connector or splice it into the pedal sensor wires...

You have a very strong defence against that. The device itself has no accuracy certificate. You can say that you checked it with GPS and it was reading high. 27.5 km/h shown is 25 km/h actual speed. In case you don't know, just about all car speedometers read 3 to 5 mph fast. If you have a KT...

Did you have to? I'm going to have to go out and buy one tomorrow now because of you. I've already got gall stones, now it's going to be a fatty liver.

All I know is that a couple of months or so agao there was a guy on this forum that mentioned that his PAS worked forwards and backwards. The problem he wanted solved was something else, so nobody paid any attention to it. I just made a mental note of it at the time because it's unusual. This...

Thanks for letting us know. We love it when there's a happy ending.

Doesn't it have a connector about 10 inches from the axle? I asked you in post #7 to check that, and you said in post #11 that you had checked it. Are you sure you did?

If you know how to fix bikes, a conversion of your gravel bike would be a good option. with a conversion, you can buy the stuff to get exactly what you want.