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The controller starts responding to the torque sensor at 1.5v, and it gives maximum power at 4.3v. Think about a non-linear output. Adding a bit of exponential might be better to get better control at low speed.

The voltage determines the maximum speed the motor can spin to, but you need more power to go faster. You need 250w to do 15mph on the flat without pedalling and 1000w to do 30 mph. It's quite complicated, though simple once you understand it. Lets say you have a 36v system with a 328 rpm...

I'm really sad to hear that, Perseus. Age gets us all eventually. The throttle is going to be hard to find, as most bikes have either done away with them or fixed them at 6km/hr. Unless Woosh can come up with something, your best hope would be to see what's on Ebay. This one looks pretty good...

Probably best to look on Ebay, Aliexpress or Amazon. You should go for a rear motor and one with an LCD control panel. Most kits come with a throttle and pedal sensor, so you don't have to pedal if you don't want to. Your brakes will be a real problem if you try to run at 20 mph. You have 4...

Nothing compares with Marathon Plus for puncture resistence. Grip is shite, but they last forever. Once you put one on your bike, you'll probably never ever have to take it off again. Mitas is a brand not a tyre type, so it's impossible to compare.

If you can find one, it won't have the same connector. Are you sure that there isn't another connector between the LCD and the one you've shown? In 10 years of working on ebikes and being on this forum, I've never seen that connector on an LCD before, though it's very common on the controller...

Ebay. They all have the same 9-pin connector at the motor ens, but there are two different arrangements at the other, depending on whether you get a controller with block connectors or moulded ones. There are different lengths avaolable too...

Probably would, but I've never looked inside one. You can probably buy a bigger version of the battery from Aliexpress.

Elife have been selling through the TV for at least 5 years. It looks quite nice apart from the rather small battery. All the components are cheap but robust.

Before doing anything, you should check the voltage between the blue and black wires when the LCD is switched on. That'll tell you if the controller is getting power. If it is, the motor should work with the throttle even if the pedal sensor is completely bust. Unless you have money to waste...

Yes, all ebike throttles work on 5v, which they get from a regulated supply from the controller. Before you connect the new throttle, you must make sure that you understand, which of the previous wires is the battery voltage one. The sequence in the new connector might be different or it might...

Typo! Now edited, thanks.

Whatever he says, he hasn't a clue. The LED unit is completely independent. If it doesn't switch on, it's either broken or it has no battery supply. To find the fault, you need a meter. Take the panel off the controller compartment under the battery, pull out the controller and check the voltage...

http://www.topbikekit.com/t06s-24v36v250w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-brushless-controller-for-ebike-p-443.html Click the LCD3 and ordinary speed sensor. You could click the throttle and PAS too, which are always useful as spares and dead cheap when you order them with the controller. They have...

Yes, there's a big capacitor across the positive and negative wires that gets charged from your meter, which is why the values climb. the important thing is that all three are the same. When they're blown, you normally see more of a difference than what you measured, but clearly something isn't...

Most shops don't have a clue what they're doing. Let's start with control panel. It works completely independently from the controller, so if it doesn’t work properly, it's faulty. It sounds like it has water in it, which is a common problem. There may be a pair of grey or white wires on the...

The LCD is a standard part with modified software. You can buy the standard one, but I'm pretty sure that Das Kit reversed the connectors on their kit to prevent it from fitting. You could cut off the connectors and join the wires directly. Alternatively, you can fit any standard controller and...

That's only half of them. Where's the other three? Were all three phase connectors tight? If the other three mosfet readings check out OK, I'm thinking it could be a problem on your 5v rail somewhere. You could start by checking the hall sensors switching, which is tricky because you have to...

The 8 pin connector doesn't sound right for an LCD. Is that a harness that splits at the handlebars and goes to the LCD, brakes and throttle? Is there a 5 or 6 pin connector somewhere near the LCD?

Is your motor sensored or sensorless?