Search results

Is yours 36v or 48v?

It's you that's not thinking. It can indeed be made legal by undoing the two screws, the ring-nut and the crank bolts.

1. No problem 2. 8 mph should be OK for some pretty long hills, especially if you're on low assist levels. 3. No maintenance required. It should be good for 20,000 miles. There isn't anything maintainable inside. Some people regrease occasionally, but it shouldn't need that with nylon gears.

As your BB has probably gone, and it's expensive, it might be better to call it a day with this bike and put your money towards a 36v bike with standard Chinese parts.

Lever them out.

You don't need to touch the pedals. It's your bottom bracket that needs attention. Remove both sides of the crank, like you're trying to do, but use the crank extractor tool, then you'll have access to the BB. The two sides are a taper fit onto the bottom bracket. Take some photos of each side...

\it takes a lot of levering to get the springs out. IIRC, there's a peg that comes out with the spring on one end and the peg in the other end is fixed in the plate. Don't lose the shim washers that are between the inner and outer plates where the 4 bolts are.

Sparticle is just standard Chinese stuff. It's been around for quite a long time, so there are probably different versions. The only important thing is the connector on the motor. If it has the standard 9 pin, you can change the controller to a much nicer one. I'd be surprised if your present...

Yes, but your post was about the legality, not about how easy it would be to make legal. A BBSHD is one of the easiest systems to convert back to legal - just two screws, one bolt and a ring-nut!

OP wants a derestricted bike. The clue is in the title!

You were doing well up to that point! I did around 4000 miles with front hub-motors, and I can tell you that that's not a practical advantage that would sway me to use one again. I can remember going out in the snow, and I couldn't even get off my drive. The only sensible reason to fit a front...

It's impossible to give a sensible answer to your question. all bikes can be derestricted. Some are easier than others. That translates your question into "What's the best bike?" That's like saying "What's the best food?" Is it porrige, which is very cheap and gives you loads of energy; is it a...

I bought a flatpack computer desc from these people last week, which is really good. Now their adverts are popping up wherever I go on the internet and this came up. It costs a bit more than the Lidl one, but is worth it for the proper locking tilt clamp, so you don't get the problems with the...

see post #3 https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/pedal-assist.25644/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTB-eBike-Hydraulic-Disc-Aluminium-Alloy-Front-Rear-Oil-Brake-Braking-Kit-UK/313460855687?hash=item48fbb91387:g:NK8AAOSwqnVcHfNm

The Giant has its own electrics, so spares only through Giant - if you can get them! I wouldn't buy a bike like that second hand.

You can't solve your problem without a voltmeter. You need to check whether the voltage from the battery is reaching the controller. You must check on those red and black bullet connectors first. If you have battery voltage there, then you have to check between any of the thin red wires and any...

If you have the same type of steerer, you can use your old headset. depending on what type you have, you might have to remove the inner race from the bottom of your old steerer tube. It should have a slot where you can hammer in a screwdriver to unwedge it. The very bottom of the steerer tube...

It's quite simple. You find the hole in the tube, then line it up with the wheel and tyre to see what caused it. If it's on the inside, it's probably a rim tape issue. If it's on the outside, something went through the tyre, which you have to remove if it's still there. Those things are nothing...

Have you checked with a meter when the bleed resistors start bleeding? Your whole test would be a waste of time if they're opening.