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What do you mean by it works until you hit the thumb-switch? Normally the bike wouldn't work until you switched it on, then when you hit the switch again, it would go off and not work anymore. Is he hitting the switch when it's already switched on?

Age isn't necessarily a problem. It's how much you use it that counts. Anything can happen occasionally, but if the problem is consistent, always happening at around 20 miles, I'd say that it's nearly certain that the battery is knackered. The meters often calculate on the basis of a long...

I was agreeing with you, not suggesting that you were one of the people spreading the myth. Sorry, it was a bit clumsy. I wondered after I wrote it whether you might think I was talking about you, but I gave myself the benefit of the doubt, mainly because I was in a hurry. To be fair to...

48v with a 15 amp controller wwould be about right for the motor. You'd get 30% more torque for hill-climbing and a cruising speed of about 20 mph if you pedal comfortably hard. You can buy a plug-and-play system from BMSBattery, where the controller is in the battery base. That would cost about...

The cheapest kits have crappy controllers and control systems. They work and are generally reliable, but a decent controller makes the bike much more user-friendly. When you've never converted a bike, it seems complicated and there are a lot of choices; however, it's only really the battery...

It doesn't matter if it's up against the bearing inner because that doesn't move. The only thing it mustn't touch is the outer. You only need to remove a few microns from it, which would take about 2 minutes.

That's not the standard 9-pin connector. To use a standard system, you'd have to cut the cable somewhere and do some soldering. Easiest would be at the controller end so that you don't have to buy a motor cable.

Ebike world championships in Bristol 2014 open class. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/atmosphere-electric-bikes-world-championships-bristol-22nd-june/ You can see all the chalk on the road in the photos. i think the photos are from 2013 because there was much more in 2014 and it was coloured. Also...

These guys are quoting from theory they don't understand. An aluminium bike frame is not fully work-hardened, so you can reform it. I and many others on the forum and everywhere else have been doing this for at least 10 years. Not one of us has ever broken a frame. Why do people keep spreading...

Yes. I'm not sure why. I've since put a GNG motor in that bike with a Nuvinci rear hub, which I also used for some experiments. I'm moving shortly, so most of my ebike stuff is going to have to go. I have enough stuff to literally fill an average garage.

I tried it. I'd say totally useless. It didn't make the ride any better than gear oil, and each application migrated from the chain to the rear derailleur and ended up gumming it up with a thick wax with grit in it. It took me over an hour to clean it all out. I still haven't found anything yet...

Everything is easy when you know how. A new controller would require a bit of soldering and wiring. What to do depends on what you want to achieve.

Yes, you can increase torque to anything you want by changing the gearing. The motor makes a fixed torque, but it's the gearing that determines how much torque you get at the back wheel. How many teeth on your chainwheel, and how many on your bottom gear?

As small as you like. There are virtually no amps - maybe 5mA or less.

It's dead easy patching tubes of all sorts. Use the type with rubber solution, not the Scab type. Clean the rubber with sandpaper first, so always make sure you have some in your puncture kit, then watch some Youtube vids on how do do it properly. If yours don't work, you're doing something wrong.

Do you have any experience of different 250w motors and systems? I would guess not because that statement is very wrong. There can be a massive difference. You can get a 250w BBS01 that runs at 25 amps and 36v, while as others run with only 15 amps. Some Woosh bikes have 17A controllers, and the...

You don't want anything threaded. You need a chamfered washer, which you can make yourself by filing the one you already have. you only have to chamfer a tiny amount to stop the outer part touching the outer part of the bearing.

These people do an exceptional job and they're very cheap: https://crankmeisterbicycleworks.com/about-us/

That was a long time ago. He sold up and went to Spain. It might help to say where you are!

the cheapest, easiest and most direct option is to buy a 29" rim and some suitable spokes - about 40 euros. There are always rims and spokes on Ebay.