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Many of you forget that once your ebike battery is too far discharged to sustain 15-20A that your motor requires to operate, it's still capable of outputting 1A that your lighting requires to shine for a long while after the motor cuts out. That's why (to me at least) powering lighting directly...

I might be wrong, but it looks as if the 'suspension' comes from the flexing of the plastic saddle. I hope somebody is there to see the look on your face when the saddle eventually breaks and pinches your nutsack or gooch in the resulting crack!

If it was, you'd definitely win.

An interesting read. Thanks for posting.

Andy, you're talking about two very different things. You're referring to the power required to maintain a given speed. VFR is referring to the current draw of a motor through its entire RPM range and the effect of the BEMF on this current draw. IMO, VFR is correct. Current draw is higher at...

https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/

A 36V battery should output 42V when fully charged.

It's certainly worth saying that your next step should be to charge your battery. Make sure you leave it on charge for a minimum of 24 hours, so that the BMS has a chance to balance the pack sufficiently.

You need a better source of information. That website is a climate change denier's wet dream! Do you know who funds it? https://www.sourcewatch.org/index.php/Climate_Depot

I can't remember the exact top voltage, but I think the 40.5V figure quoted by Clive was measured halfway through a recent ride, when his system failed. Can you confirm that this is the case Clive?

I agree, that is usually very annoying, but in Clive's defence, he didn't come here looking for technical advice. He's just looking for a LBS able to assist him further.

I saw that you weren't asking for technical advice, but that won't stop this lot from trying to help. It's probably easier for me to convey what's happened up until now. Clive bought a sensorless 9FET KT controller from me a few weeks ago. No communication occurred at the time of purchase...

Hi Clive It's Dan from TorqueTech here. Do you mind me butting in to the conversation and revealing some of the missing details of your issue?

Your reply tells me that YOU don't know. The correct answer is "You can't remove pins from molded connectors". Maybe it's time to hand that shovel back...

Perhaps you can enlighten us... How do you push a pin out of a molded connector?

Don't worry, that's how they're meant to behave. Once the magnets are positioned close to the sensors, the brake cutouts will disable and the motor will come to life again.

The same rules apply with regen as when you are using the motor to generate motion. There are two ways you can damage a motor; physical damage to the motor axle due to torque and heat damage due to copper losses (IR²). The KT manual is referring to copper losses. Efficiency drops as regen...

They are. They've just been rebranded as 'Turnigy High Capacity'.

Hell no! Direct drive (DD) motors are absolutely gutless running on 15A. I'm of the opinion that DD motors are pointless running below 35A, since geared motors are able to reliably generate similar torque levels up to around this point.

Yep, totally normal to hear a little growl at low RPM's if using a trapezoidal (non-sinewave) controller.