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Pffft...... amateurs .

Hi. It looks like a Neutrik Speakon connector, though I'm not sure which one.

danielrlee submitted a new listing: WANTED – Front wheel direct drive motor mounted in 20” rim, disc brake compatible. - WANTED – Front wheel direct drive motor mounted in 20” rim, disc brake compatible. Learn more about this listing...

There becomes a point at around 30mph where it is less efficient to pedal and you're better off tucking your legs in to minimise aero drag.

I know that the user 'cwah' had a collection of faulty motors that he wanted to get rid of a short while back, so you might want to get in touch with him.

How anyone can justify £169 on a pair of trainers, I'll never understand. Are they walk assist?

There may be other benefits to upgrading, depending on the controller, but an increase in power is not one of them.

No difference. 35A is 35A. Is the 1000W or 1500W controller physically larger than your 800W controller? If so, they can probably take a bit more abuse (heat) before they fail, but the power output will be the same.

Sorry, you're out of luck. With a hard 40A BMS limit, 35A output is the most you're going to get out of it.

Do you have any more details about your battery and motor? I suspect that unless your battery is made from more 'exotic' cells, it's probably already near its limit outputting 35A.

Yes, at 400A. The point was that most 1000W motors can take considerably more than 25A. I think the guy in the video (LFP) overdid it just a bit though.

For entertainment purposes, here's the very same motor being fed over 44kW: /thread hijack

You must've experienced some shockingly bad 1000W motors in your time. IME, most 1000W motors can take significantly more power than that. For example, the Crystalyte H3540 (1000W rated) can take over 5kW before it reaches its saturation point.

No need. If I recall TUFKAD's previous avatar correctly, he's an android.

LiPo packs have balance plugs that provide a connection to each cell. A custom harness using JST-XH balance cables lets you connect them to a BMS in a similar manner to any other lithium pack. In fact, it's arguably easier than most other BMS installs.

Yes you can. Using LiPo packs doesn't preclude you from using a BMS. No point of using LiPo if you don't need the power density though. EDIT: Sorry. I just re-read the post you were responding to and missed the OP's dismissal of a BMS.

Or possibly a short inside the sensor. Have you continuity tested the 5V and signal PAS sensor wires?

^ This. The PAS sensor LED is permanently illuminated because it is being backfed a voltage through the signal wire. As Neal states, either you have the 5V & signal wires connected the wrong way round, or there is a short between them somewhere.

Have you tried swapping batteries?

The battery is a 35E 5P pack - not ideal, but should be able to manage the odd bit of 35A drain. The BMS isn't cutting off power and the fact that the LCD display never shows more than 800W makes me believe that something else is amiss.