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You're not measuring correctly. You should measure everything from the battery ground, which is the thick black wire connected to the cell-pack. That's the one marked B-, which by definition is 0v, so it can't be 53.8v, and the yellow one is probably C- (charge negative), which should also be...

If either of the two battery voltages wires touch any data or signal wires, you wipe out the control panel and/or the controller. If it doesn't work after repairing the wires, you have to disconnect the control panel and bridge the two battery voltage wires, which will switch the controller on...

If it were just shutting off when it reached 500w, I'd say that your battery was worn out. I don't quite understand what you're saying about the current going up by itself, nor what you were doing in the video. Were you holding the wheel back with the brake to force the current up? If so, what...

This popped up on Youtube ads. I'm sure it will appeal to some, but not for me. All these type of bikes seem to have the same features that are controlled by a phone app. Have a look at the reviews, which seem to show the normal issues with the tech not working quite like it should. Hopefully...

Many 24v controllers will run with a 36v battery, but there are pitfalls. Most importantly, the controller won't cut off the power when the battery reaches 31v because it's programmed to cut off at 21v for a 24v one. That can brick your 36v battery if you're not careful. also, any indicators you...

They're two different bearings. One is 12mm I/D (6001), the other is 15mm (6902). You can clearly see the difference in I/D in the photos.

The LCD works with the controller (KT controllers only, not Bafang). It doesn't have a clue, nor does it care about what motor you have. It's the controller that connects to the motor. if your motor has the 9 pin connector, in principle, you can use just about any controller with its matching...

I've just checked the Wisper manual: https://wisperbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/705-905Classic-Manual-4.pdf The first light flashing is over-current. Disconnect the motor and battery from the controller and measure the resistance between the red battery wire and the three motor phase...

Yes. You can only bridge the pins if you have the flat black type connector, not the moulded type. Which LED display do you have? The low PAS level LED flashing on a 790 means over-current, which would be a blown MOSFET in the controller, damaged motor cable or motor connector not fully in, so...

What happened to the days when the bike shop had a big reel of chain and they cut off whatever length you needed?

What you're saying doesn't compute. 2020 and 2021 Mirider One use KT LCD5s. Have you modified something or are there different versions? You can see it in the photo in this listing. https://www.buyanebike.com/product/2020-mirider-one-electric-bike-orange/

You can't measure the battery voltage on the pins because it doesn't switch on until connected and comms handshaking is complete. From memory, you get about 14v, which doesn't tell you anything other than probably something about the impedence of your meter. Unfortunately, you need special...

The torque depends on how much current the controller gives, not what sort of wire you have. The windings affect the Kv (speed) of the motor. The higher the number of turns on each pole, the slower the motor, though it's not possible to determine the turns because they use several strands in...

You need to show us the controller you have.

The first thing I'd do is disconnect the control panel, then try to run the bike without it by bridging the red and blue wires to see if the controller and motor work. The mode of failure would give a good clue to what might be faulty. How did the problem start? What caused it?

You should tell us what was the problem. People gave their time and effort to help you. Other people might have the same problem, and it's really frustrating when you find a forum thread, where somebody had the same thing, but no cause or solution was shown.

When you take power from a battery, the voltage drops a bit (sag). The amount of drop is proportional to the amount of current (power) you take from it. It's a basic law of electricity called Ohm's law, where you get a voltage drop in any conductor proportional to the conductor's resistance, so...

I thought you had fixed it with the heatshrink. Is it still giving problems then?

Your bike uses a KT LCD5 display. The battery indicator is just a voltmeter, though it has an adjustable damping coefficient, which can cause a bit of a delay in what is shows compared with the actual battery voltage. That's so you can use it more like a fuel guage. If you set the damping...

Put your black probe where the black ground from the cell-pack attaches to the BMS, then with your red one, probe each of the little slots in the edge of the connector. write down the voltages, which should be incremental from one side to the other. You need 13 measurements starting at around...