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Sometimes, the solder joints on the back of the switch crack and go intermittent. All they need is resoldering, so if your bike does work properly now, you might find that it'll continue to work by just reattaching the wires to the switch.

Before doing anything, solder a wire across the two connections at the back of the switch to bypass it. If that fixes the problem, then you can replace the switch, otherwise you need to look elsewhere for the cause. While you test, you can lift the battery off its connections when not used...

One thing I've noticed since I've been on this forum is how many Riese amd Muller bikes end up in the classified adverts section with very little use and suffering massive depreciation. In fact I'd go as far as saying that there are more of them advertised in the classified than any other brand...

It's not worth to spend £25, which most likely won't solve your problem, as it's probably caused by the fact that your controller uses speed control for its power algorithms.

It's very unlikely that you'll find a shop that would have the will or knowledge to fix it. It's the sort of thing that a DIY enthuiast with good knowledge of electrical things could fix after a bit of research as long as the motor's OK.

It's nothing to do with that. It's because the display is just a stepped voltmeter, so all it shows is the battery voltage. The battery starts at 41v and cuts off at 31v, so half way down is 36v, which is when you see two bars out of 4, but the discharge isn't linear. Have a look at the chart...

when you switch the bike on, the controller checks the throttle signal. if it gets anything than a zero throttle signal (>1.2v), it won't give power until it sees one. After it sees zero throttle (1.2v or less), it will try to regulate the motor speed in accordance with the signal it gets. Your...

6 months to a year ago, there was a thread about people upgrading to V2 after they couldn't get replacement V1 batteries. Use Google to search the forum, then message the guys directly to see if they have one.

When you enter 3745, you have to press and hold for 10 secs. Did you try that?

Aikema motors don't like to run sensorless, especially with high power. What's happened to the hall sensors?

You can use any 36v battery you want. I'd recommend a downtube one of some sort. There are a lot of options for controllers and the other stuff too. without gears, you're going to need around 18 to 20 amps. KT controllers give a good riding experience. You can get batteries with integrated KT...

When you crash the car, can I get first dibs on the battery?

51v isn't enough for a fully-charged 48v battery. It should be 54.6v. The LCD works independently from the controller, so if it won't come on if either the battery, its connection or the LCd is faulty. Don't waste your money replacing the controller as it's unlikely that there's anything wrong...

Maybe if you tell us what you have, somebody might be able to help.

Which version do you have. Please show the LCD or LED control panel..

I'm referring to the battery display in the LCD, not the battery. The LCD is the thing on the handlebars. The controller is housed in the compartment under the battery.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/zonkie-8-Speed-Bicycle-Chain-Links/dp/B08BNRRFRB

You can diagnose the cause of your problem by watching the battery charge indicator on your LCD. When your battery is fully charged, it should show that. What does it show? What happens to it at the time of cut-out? Does it still show full? Does it sink down then LCD goes off? Does the LCD...

It's not too short for you to make an apology.

It's alright for you to say that, but you're not the one that's being wrongfully accused.