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You're getting confused between amps and amp-hours. They're completely different things. The current is regulated by the controller. What's the maximum current written on it?

The signals are dynamic. You're testing to see whether the halls switch on and off. You can't test anything with a stationary motor. Secondly, you measure voltages from ground, not from 5v.

Did you let the phase wires touch the hall wires while spinning the 2nd motor?

To use the tester, you connect it up, switch it on, then turn the motor backwards slowly. The hall lights should flash in sequence and so should the phase lights underneath. When the motor is stationary, you can get any pattern of hall lights depending where the motor stops relative to the...

in principle, you can use any 36v battery you want as long as you find somewhere to put the controller. The controller is located in the compartment at the front of the rack that the battery plugs into. There's one caveat, and that is that the controllers in those compartments are sometimes...

Woosh sell/sold kits with the small AKM 85. I think that same motor came with some Swytch kits too, but I've never seen A Q128/AKM128 sold in UK.

Two torque arms should be enough, as long as they're fitted properly. Show some photos if you're unsure.

In principle, you can use any 13s BMS that can supply the current that your present one does or more. They have different connector arrangements. You have to make sure that your B1, B2, B3... wires go to the right positions. In the worst case, you have to cut off the connector from the cel-pack...

Your yellow hall sensor isn't switching. You need to find out why - connection issue, damaged cable or blown sensor.

The C-washers are normally for front forks, where you have a dimple on the forks that doesn't line up with a normal washer. Plain washers would have been better, but C-washers should be good enough. The problem with plain washers is that you need special ones with a smaller outside diameter so...

That's not so common. I'd guess that's the power, ground, switched controller power, Rx, Tx and lights, but which is which? You'd have to open the controller and/or control panel to check the board markings to see which is which. before you could try a different digital control panel. If it...

AKM motors are still the best IMHO, Q-series motors are either unbadged or clones of AKM. They're very reliable and can handle a lot of power for their size because they have a high internal reduction ratio, which means they spin faster for the same bike speed. Other motor makers are also...

It can be done, but it's complicated. You'd be better off selling what you can and using the money for a Chinese kit. You should get good money for a Bosch battery and charger alone.

Don't leave it like that for too long because you've bi-passed all the safety controls. As your battery is well-balanced, you should be OK for a few charges as long as you don't over-discharge it. It seems that you're losing something through the output mosfets, so probably easier to replace...

No. show us what it looks like, then I'll give you indtructions.

Take the plate off the end of the box opposite to the end where the wires come out. look in there to see if there's a staple shaped bit of metal, which is the shunt. something like this:

You can't fry a motor with any sort of tester.

What colour wires do you have and how many?

EABS is for direct drive motors. Just leave it disconnected. For testing, always disconnect everything that isn't essential for testing, i.e. just connect the motor battery LCD, self-learn wires and throttle

I'd get the meter out, open the battery and check whether the output mosfets are switched on, when you've got no power.