Yosepower hub kits.

[Scorpio]

Please can you expand on that, which kits and why do you prefer them ?

I'm still using the battery and motor from my Yose kit but I removed the controller & display and replaced them with a KT controller & display.
The Yose system worked fine but (after using the KT) I found it very crude. The KT can be set to work the way you want it to and is a lot smoother to ride.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I'm still using the battery and motor from my Yose kit but I removed the controller & display and replaced them with a KT controller & display.
The Yose system worked fine but (after using the KT) I found it very crude. The KT can be set to work the way you want it to and is a lot smoother to ride.

Yes, when I asked Yose they said the assist levels were speed based rather than %power based which seemed it would result in over assistance up to the speed limit for that level then zero assistance above that speed

 

[average_ebike_user]

Hi, I got a kit from Yose about 2 years ago - different to yours but they might work the same way.

On mine, the battery has 1 button and 1 key lock.
The key on the battery is not an on/off switch, all it does is secures the battery to the bike (but for things to work, the battery has to be fully "clicked" into place, then locked with the key to stop it shaking loose). The battery has tp be firmly in place or the key won;t turn to lock it).
To turn the bike on, I hold the button on the display marked "I/O" for a few seconds (a quick press does nothing).
Try turning your key then try again - some (non-Yose) bike have 3 key positions, unlocked (you can remove the battery), locked but turned off (for secure storage), locked and turned on (ready to ride). Does you key have 2 positions or 3?

I think my lock works differently (see the attachment). I cannot lock the battery at all, the key won't turn counterclockwise. Clicking the battery into place seems to lock it as well. Turning the key clockwise unlocks the battery.

When you press the button on the battery, does the display on the battery show fully charged?

LEDs show full charge, but display shows 5 out of 6

Plug your charger in but don't connect it to the battery - the light on the charger should be green.
Then plug the charger into the battery - light should turn red while the battery is charging and go green when battery is charged.
Does this all look ok when you check?

Yes, it works exactly how you described.

Yose asked me to measure the voltage at the display connector - it was constant 42 V so it seems to me that the display might be the problem. Let's see what they come up with.

 

[average_ebike_user]

Yose sent me a replacement display which I will try next week.

 

[average_ebike_user]

The display was indeed faulty. The kit now works like a charm!

 

[WheezyRider]

Has anyone got any further with finding the optimum settings for Yose power motors on KT/LCD3 controllers? Or is this a moving target as Yose Power use lots of different AKMxxx motors that have different settings?

I've put a 17A KT controller and LCD3 on a front wheel drive Yose 250W motor. It runs ok, but feels a bit gutless and struggles a bit on inclines, which didn't seem to be the case previously with the Lishui controller and C500 LCD.

All the settings seemed to be quite standard apart from P1, which was set to 90.

When I used a Bafang motor on the Yose power Lishui controller and C500 display, I had to change P2, to stop it thinking the motor was doing a million miles an hour, but I haven't had to change anything when trying the opposite arrangement with KT controller and "AKMxxx" motor. So I'm wondering if that needs to be changed and the difference it just a bit more subtle. I haven't done a GPS speed check yet, but it doesn't seem like the speed is way out (in terms of riding along with other e-bikes).

C5 is on 10, so it should be getting max current.

BTW, don't ever try the Yose power Lishui controller at 48V. The caps inside it are only rated to 50V.

 

[Nealh]

Which winding and AKM do you have , if the internal gearing isn't known one expects you will have to experiment with P1 settings. Try 130, 168, 211 .
130 = 8.1, 168 = 10.5, 211= 13.1 are some of the typical ratios used.

 

[WheezyRider]

Which winding and AKM do you have , if the internal gearing isn't known one expects you will have to experiment with P1 settings. Try 130, 168, 211 .
130 = 8.1, 168 = 10.5, 211= 13.1 are some of the typical ratios used.

It's just a generic Yose Power 250 W front hub with AKMxxx markings, and there is no info on gearing or winding. Ok, I'll try those numbers and see what happens...

In terms of numbers on the motor, there is the code "95RS. F250-3626"

Which could be the 95RS model, Front 250 W, 36 V 26 inch?

There is a 95RS model, claiming 40 Nm torque but I can't see any reduction ratio info:

aikema HUB MOTOR

 

[PC2017]

C5 is on 10, so it should be getting max current.

Have you tried c5 = 8 or 9, maybe try and aim for 15a, 14a was fast enough for me on flats, the YOSE motor had a better top speed but the MXUS is quick to draw.

Is it square wave or sine? I felt that square was crunchy but not in a quantifiable or easily describable fashion.

I used a 14a sine circa 600w on a hill leveling at 550w, smooth as butter. The same KT 14a is now on the slightly higher rpm MXUS sooth as also.

 

[WheezyRider]

Have you tried c5 = 8 or 9, maybe try and aim for 15a, 14a was fast enough for me on flats, the YOSE motor had a better top speed but the MXUS is quick to draw.

Is it square wave or sine? I felt that square was crunchy but not in a quantifiable or easily describable fashion.

I used a 14a sine circa 600w on a hill leveling at 550w, smooth as butter. The same KT 14a is now on the slightly higher rpm MXUS sooth as also.

It's not too bad on the flat, it accelerates and gets to 25 kph, although not at what you would call lightning acceleration. The main problem is as soon as there is a slight incline, it can't maintain that speed and steeper hills are quite a challenge for it. I don't think turning down the current will help, it will just have less grunt. I'm using a sine wave controller and on the flat it is very quiet. It's when the motor bogs down on a hill it gets a bit noisy.

I am wondering if the battery I'm using is the issue, it's one someone gave me and I need to do a capacity check on it to eliminate that possibility. With the 17 A controller I should be seeing over 600 W on the display, but I've not even seen it reach 600.

 

[guerney]

Could be because I have 20" wheels driven by a mid-drive motor, but I've certainly noticed increasing the amp limit on my BBS01B's controller from 15A to 18A, has made hills ascents even easier than they were before, also faster, which was the aim. I really didn't expect to experience much difference - it's only a 3A increase. Assuming 80% efficiency it's 518W now, but I could dice with BMS and rear derailleur death by increasing the limit to 20A if needed (highly unlikely - not necessary, and my battery isn't young). It's a 22A BMS, but I need an amp or two for the lights I've soldered to the battery (which is an estimate, because I haven't measured), plus a little headroom.

 

[saneagle]

It's not too bad on the flat, it accelerates and gets to 25 kph, although not at what you would call lightning acceleration. The main problem is as soon as there is a slight incline, it can't maintain that speed and steeper hills are quite a challenge for it. I don't think turning down the current will help, it will just have less grunt. I'm using a sine wave controller and on the flat it is very quiet. It's when the motor bogs down on a hill it gets a bit noisy.

I am wondering if the battery I'm using is the issue, it's one someone gave me and I need to do a capacity check on it to eliminate that possibility. With the 17 A controller I should be seeing over 600 W on the display, but I've not even seen it reach 600.

You might have a false positive on the hall and phase connection sequence. You should try all 36 combinations to see if you can find a better one.

 

[WheezyRider]

You might have a false positive on the hall and phase connection sequence. You should try all 36 combinations to see if you can find a better one.

Do you mean in the software, or a physical connection of the wires?

 

[Nealh]

Wire sequences there are 36 possible combo's. I have posted a chart many times so should be able to find in the search area.

 

[WheezyRider]

Wire sequences there are 36 possible combo's. I have posted a chart many times so should be able to find in the search area.

But the motor cable and the controller cable have Julet connectors, so I can't easily swap things around.

 

[Leeroy]

But the motor cable and the controller cable have Julet connectors, so I can't easily swap things around.

I’m about to do the same thing as I’ve managed to get hold of a yosepower 350w back wheel for cheap! I’ve already got a 22a kt controller and 48v battery. The motor connector is also a Juliet, so my plan is to get a motor cable extension lead chop it in half and go from there. That way the connector on the motor and controller stay intact.

 

[WheezyRider]

I’m about to do the same thing as I’ve managed to get hold of a yosepower 350w back wheel for cheap! I’ve already got a 22a kt controller and 48v battery. The motor connector is also a Juliet, so my plan is to get a motor cable extension lead chop it in half and go from there. That way the connector on the motor and controller stay intact.

It'll be interesting to see how you get on. What LCD controller are you planning to use?

 

[Leeroy]

It'll be interesting to see how you get on. What LCD controller are you planning to use?

I’ll probably go for a lcd3, keep it simple! I know the c500 from my yose power front wheel kit doesn’t work with the kt controller, neither does the PAS sensor, so I’ll have to pickup a kt compatible sensor too. Good luck with your build!

 

[Nealh]

Kt's will only use KT display's and vice versa with LSW 's (lishui's), one may see a few parameters working but that is it . Invariably power will power up and maybe a PAS level may work but not much else.

PAS sensor should work if wire sequence is correct.

 

[WheezyRider]

Kt's will only use KT display's and vice versa with LSW 's (lishui's), one may see a few parameters working but that is it . Invariably power will power up and maybe a PAS level may work but not much else.

PAS sensor should work if wire sequence is correct.

I've not been able to get the Yose power PAS to work with the LCD3.