Yosepower hub kits.

quackstar84

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If your hall sensors aren't switching, you can only use a snsorless or dual mode controller.
Yes. PC2017 has offered to sell me his motor which have working hall sensors. Then I can use everything as is. Id rather not be running sensorless, I already do in real life lol.
 

Sturmey

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Re. Kt controller and Lcd3 on Yose kits, I notice that if you hold down the 'arrrow up' and 'arrow down' buttons together for about 20 seconds or more after going through the p and c settings, you get into the 'L' setting menu. L3 allows you to switch off the halls for sensor less working. The L1 setting allows the locking of dual voltage controllers LVC to either auto or 36 or 48 volt . But I don't know if it actually works or whether the controllers support the above functions.
 
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Scorpio

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quackstar84

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Re. Kt controller and Lcd3 on Yose kits, I notice that if you hold down the 'arrrow up' and 'arrow down' buttons together for about 20 seconds or more after going through the p and c settings, you get into the 'L' setting menu. L3 allows you to switch off the halls for sensor less working. The L1 setting allows the locking of dual voltage controllers LVC to either auto or 36 or 48 volt . But I don't know if it actually works or whether the controllers support the above functions.
Thank you. Normally it takes three seconds to change From p to c and to get to L it takes seven. I tried setting L3 to 0 but no luck. Thank you for your time mate
 

quackstar84

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^ @Sturmey many thanks. I had seen L* parameters mention but had only found P & C settings on my LCD4, have just checked and found L* :)

Edit: The LCD3 & LCD4 manuals I have looked at don't show :* parameters, for info see https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/help-with-swxh-and-kt36-controller.40216/post-599831
I googled for the "L setting on an kt controller" and found this quite from good old Nealh from last August.

KT error code 3 is hall sensor issue so double check connection/wiring also make sure the hub wire connector is fully pushed home or use L3/1, see reason below.
Maybe a hall is damaged in the hub so will need to be tested with a meter.
Use the search pages of the forum for hall sensor testing threads.

P1 46 for the D/D hubs.

L1 is lvc so 0 is default auto setting otherwise 1,2 & 3 are 20, 30 & 40v respectively.
L2 is linked to P1 setting so leave it at L2/0 for the correct calculated value.
If one had a hub with a very high gear ratio then P1 might go off the scale so L2/1 would halve the calculation so a P1 value can be used, for instance if one calculated P1 as 300 one would set P1/150 and L2/1.
L3 is for sensored or sensor less use. L3 1 is default for optimised system/sensored running . L3/0 activates non hall mode should hall/s fail.
L4 is LCD shut down timer, 5 = 5 mins, 6 = mins etc etc.
 
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PC2017

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I will look on mine for "L" settings

I can buy and get this in four days https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174701078934 although I lend my soldering iron to my brother in law and I need to change the power plugs. That should be ok as a replacement? Id much prefer a dual mode controller as vfr400 recommend thought.

Anyhow, I could take you up on your offer of the motor and if it doesn't work also buy a controller... if that doesn't work buy a new lcd3... if that doesn't work... watch the whole lot melt in a smelting furnace... although the 48v battery is ok.
Oh I forgot if its sinewave it'll be sensor only - sorry mate...

If you get a new controller, see if it works if not my offer still stands. How many miles have you done just out curiosity?
 

quackstar84

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I will look on mine for "L" settings



Oh I forgot if its sinewave it'll be sensor only - sorry mate...

If you get a new controller, see if it works if not my offer still stands. How many miles have you done just out curiosity?
Id want to buy a new kit with working hall sensors rather than buying a controller id need to wire up to be compatible with the hub motor or vice versa and it be inefficient. It's done around 300 miles since 2018 i believe, I would have stated when I bought it in this thread. I use it as transportation see my nephew and niece because I don't have a car. I've a disability which causes fatigue and mental confusion if I walk distances. It's called POTS for any interested. If bikes and kits weren't all randomly sold out and I could easily select one I wanted... currently it's a beggars can't be choosers situation. I don't know. The cost of a bus fair would round up rapidly to the cost of a replacement controller, then I'd have a spare. Thank you for your input PC2017.
 

quackstar84

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Hello. May I just have a refresher on if I can run this


with my 48v battery as long as I use an 36v48v kt controller which I have? I read the "Lishui controller and LCD vs KT controller and LCD" thread and would keep the Lishui as a back up. So to be clear is this motor compatible with the KT controller please?

I want an 27.5 wheel (my local bike shop and chain reaction wouldn't lace a wheel for a hub) so I can get a modern bike. Also ill be able to test the hub I have now with the lishus as well. Thank you.

I just want to get a bike now and trouble shooting this issue later.

Cheers.
 

vfr400

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Hello. May I just have a refresher on if I can run this


with my 48v battery as long as I use an 36v48v kt controller which I have? I read the "Lishui controller and LCD vs KT controller and LCD" thread and would keep the Lishui as a back up. So to be clear is this motor compatible with the KT controller please?

I want an 27.5 wheel (my local bike shop and chain reaction wouldn't lace a wheel for a hub) so I can get a modern bike. Also ill be able to test the hub I have now with the lishus as well. Thank you.

I just want to get a bike now and trouble shooting this issue later.

Cheers.
You can use the motor wheel, but that's going to work out expensive. KT controllers only work with KT displays, and I'm not sure of the compatibility with that kit's harness. Also, you need to look at your motor cable connectors and cable lengths to make sure that they reach, otherwise you need an extension cable.

There are similar kits on Ebay that come with KT controllers. Why not get one of them?
 
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Scorpio

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I have 2x Yose rear wheels, 1 KT kit, 1 Lisui kit - and can swap my wheels between my kits.
*IF* the connections in the kit you're looking at match mine and are wired the same way you should be ok to swap them.

Some wheels come with short (30cm?) cables, my Yose have longer (70cm?) cables - the kit in your link looks similar to mine.

Agree it 's a better idea to buy a kit with KT controller rather than buy a Lisui kit intending to swap to KT.
 
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quackstar84

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You can use the motor wheel, but that's going to work out expensive. KT controllers only work with KT displays, and I'm not sure of the compatibility with that kit's harness. Also, you need to look at your motor cable connectors and cable lengths to make sure that they reach, otherwise you need an extension cable.

There are similar kits on Ebay that come with KT controllers. Why not get one of them?
I had a brain fart moment. I thought they didn't sell them anymore because they become obsolete or replaced with the Lisui controllers. However that wouldn't matter on ebay anyhow as people still have stock. It's just finding an 27.5 inch one. I found this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194035465412 15ah controller which is fine. I often see "28"". That's the 700c Road tire? Id want to be able to go off road.
 

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quackstar84

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I have 2x Yose rear wheels, 1 KT kit, 1 Lisui kit - and can swap my wheels between my kits.
*IF* the connections in the kit you're looking at match mine and are wired the same way you should be ok to swap them.

Some wheels come with short (30cm?) cables, my Yose have longer (70cm?) cables - the kit in your link looks similar to mine.

Agree it 's a better idea to buy a kit with KT controller rather than buy a Lisui kit intending to swap to KT.
I had a brain fart moment. For some reason I thought I wouldn't be able to get another lcd3 and kt controller. Well I cant with an 27.5 inch wheel yet. I did a search on ebay for lcd3 kt and didn't find any 27.5. Ill look some more. Cheers
 

quackstar84

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Nealh

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In theory yes, you may get lucky though and pay nothing.
Usually depending who it goes thru (courier) there may be an additional handling fee to pay of about £12.
 

quackstar84

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In theory yes, you may get lucky though and pay nothing.
Usually depending who it goes thru (courier) there may be an additional handling fee to pay of about £12.
Cheers Nealh. So there's a possibility of additional £50ish charge... bugger.

Im not getting anything directly from the hall sensors on the wheel so it's likely they need replacing rather than an issue with the controller, yet the controller could also be the cause of the hall sensors going out all at once due to a possible surge? So try a new motor before a controller is the conclusion im coming too?
 

quackstar84

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Hello everyone.


I managed to exchange the busted motor for PC2017's and it works :).

As you may see in the photos PC2017's copper wire gauge is smaller (thicker). Does that mean increased torque?

Thank you everyone for your help. I very much appreciate it. You've saved me buying a new kit.

This is a superb forum full of wonderful helpful people :D.
 

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Nealh

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A thicker wire can carry more current so more torque, thinner wire lees current so less torque if the same voltage.
 
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