The torque depends on how much current the controller gives, not what sort of wire you have. The windings affect the Kv (speed) of the motor. The higher the number of turns on each pole, the slower the motor, though it's not possible to determine the turns because they use several strands in each turn, like an 8 turn winding might have 6 strands per turn, which makes 48 winds of wire around the pole, and a 6 turn motor might have 8 starnds of the same wire in each turn, so you still have 48 winds of the same wire, which would look the same. that wouldn't work with a 7 turn motor, so they could use a different number of strands and either thicker or thinner wire to fill the coils.
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
For info ... I just tried swapping casings between a pair of Yose 350w rear motors (to put a cassette fitting onto a motor that had a freewheel fitting), the motors look identical but stepped machining on the axles make it impossible to swap parts.
Why did I want to swap the internals? My cassette wheel was 26" from new and I re-rimmed it to 700c/29er. The freewheel has always been 700c/29er and I had hoped it would have more torque.
Why did I want to swap the internals? My cassette wheel was 26" from new and I re-rimmed it to 700c/29er. The freewheel has always been 700c/29er and I had hoped it would have more torque.
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hello , I have a 1000w 48v rear wheel yosepower kit and two hailong 48v 17.5 amp batteries purchased separately , I have ridden 1600km with the bike without any problem , but a few weeks here when I put the battery in fully charged the display does not turn on , only when I change the battery key to off and I try to turn on the display it just discharges the remaining energy in the system which is normal , but in on it does not turn on , unless I wait a few minutes before and now I have to wait for hours and come back trying and it finally turns on and I can run until the battery runs out normally and since then it turns on and off normally until I go back to the process of recharging the battery and put it back to try to turn on and it doesn't turn on. it appears that the system has some protection when the battery is fully charged. I've performed all the tests with a multimeter on the batteries, on the wires inside the controller, reset the battery bms, measured the continuity of the mosfets on the controller and everything is normal. what is causing this problem?
After a full charge and you probe the battery connectors with your multi meter what voltage do you get, with the battery power button on and off, assuming it has one?
after a full charge with the button on the battery it measures 54.7v and off and I did not measure.
that's right, with the two batteries the same problem occurs but with one of them if I wait a few hours I can turn it on and when it turns on it works perfectly but other times when it turns on it gets low power generating only 13 w on the display.
Odd one defo - Do you use the same charger for both batteries?
Personally I would swap out parts with my spare box, however I except that others may not had amassed as many spares as me. My controller sometimes overheats and cuts out but not for a long time as you describe. Maybe start a new thread detailing your test results, whereby others maybe able to shed some light on your issue.
Personally I would swap out parts with my spare box, however I except that others may not had amassed as many spares as me. My controller sometimes overheats and cuts out but not for a long time as you describe. Maybe start a new thread detailing your test results, whereby others maybe able to shed some light on your issue.
yes I use the same charger for both but I have two identical batteries and two identical chargers too , I ordered a new controller and a new display too , when I arrive I will do the test because I believe the problem does not come from the batteries.
I have 2x 36v batteries and I use the same charger for them, if I suspected an over charging issues not BMS related I would consider using my other charger instead, if the same fault occurs I would most likely put a pin in the batteries been at fault and look elsewhere.
It is good practice to purchase spares, worse case, just in case.
Questions I would ask myself, any 4 to 1 cable or LCD water ingress? Unplug all cables and check all cables/pins for signs of wear, even though some are water resistant, moisture can oxidise internal pins I found this common on the 4 to 1 cable battery voltage pin also check the motor and battery mount pins and all cables.
Will it be an overload on the batteries that does not let the controller start? because of the charging, even though the chargers are the same I have mixed the two and charge each battery in the first one I get. Sometimes WHEN the display turns on I notice that the voltage shown is at 55v and then when I start draining the battery everything seems to be normal. this problem always arises when the battery has just come out of the charger and I put it on the bike and then the display doesn't turn on..
Thinking of buying a yosepower 350w kit. Does anyone have experience with going up 10% grades around 1 mile in length with these kits? im avg weight(73kg) and will be putting on a road bike. Also wondering what kind of miles people are getting out of these as they seem pretty cheap.
Jordy I bought one of these 12,800kms ago last May. Does that say enough? If not, I live in Spain, and did an HC climb 16kms in length and I weigh 120kgs - not all fat - but I did have to give it all that I had physically. I am currently on 90,000m of climbing this year. You will fly up that grade at your weight. If you are a cyclist already, it may be too much!
A couple of weeks ago my old frame cracked, and I was lucky enough to be gifted a second hand Orbea Gain e road bike. It is lovely as a bike, but the way the Yose motor works, especially on a road bike (where, like the Gain, it is complementing the rider rather than standing in for them) especially on steeper hills, is far, far better. The gurus on here will be able to advise you on the current motor/controller/screen Yose are using. Mine was a low rpm motor, with a Lishui speed controller that I loved but others here didn’t get on with.
A couple of weeks ago my old frame cracked, and I was lucky enough to be gifted a second hand Orbea Gain e road bike. It is lovely as a bike, but the way the Yose motor works, especially on a road bike (where, like the Gain, it is complementing the rider rather than standing in for them) especially on steeper hills, is far, far better. The gurus on here will be able to advise you on the current motor/controller/screen Yose are using. Mine was a low rpm motor, with a Lishui speed controller that I loved but others here didn’t get on with.
sounds good my main concern was that they don't say what rpm the motor is and if its too high im guessing the motor would overheat. did you fit the throttle on yours? i dont see how i would position it well with the drop bars so probably just sticking with pas only.
Yup, pas only for me, it worked really, really well. It never overheated. With it going full power and me up on the pedals we managed a short 25% section once, but like I said, long hills of 8-10% are the norm out here and my granny gear out back has 30teeth, so big but not a dinner plate. It opened up every road for me. I can only state how it was for me - I was a keen cyclist before I bought the kit. I don’t know what it’s like if you want it to do all the work….
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