Yosepower hub kits.

[vfr400]

The freewheel is steel and the motor is aluminium, so of you heat it up a bit, it'll come off easily.

 

[quackstar84]

Hello vfr400. I managed to get the freewheel off, It was dry as a bone. Here's inside the hub. None of the wires look damaged and no corrosion either. There also appears to be a fourth chip which looks like the Hull sensors? The other pics are for the benefit of others who want to see the inside. Would any more photos help? On the fourth pic it looks like the threads are damaged, it's just dirt.

 

[PC2017]

Not as ideal as some internals to repair, most have the halls on a small circuit board which would make it easier to replace the halls, I wonder if this type is cheaper or easier to assemble.

I have a spare internal motor and I am planning a new build when the right bike comes along so I see no need for my spare... However there is a few points I should note, I deemed it faulty, it ran but did have that annoying click off click on at high speed or under load, that in all fairness the community never did quite explain and others reported a similar issue, neither the Dillenger nor the Yose 250 Front ever experience this, I put it down to either a fault on the motor or the controller. I was saving it for the 9 pin cable in case mine gave up the ghost however these are now wide spread and I shouldn't have a problem getting one if the need arises.

If you can not find a solution to your issue you are welcome to have it for the price of P&P and if it works for you then a small donation to my future projects if you can afford it, if it doesn't work then no worries. Hermes will ship it for about £10.00 but prices have risen since I last posted something out.

 

[vfr400]

Apart from what I said in a previous post about a short, the only other logical cause would be that your ground wire is interrupted, so test for continuity between the thick black on your controller and any of the grounds of the hall sensors if you can get a probe to one.

The 4th sensor is the speed sensor for the LCD speed display.

 

[quackstar84]

Hello PC2017 . Nice to see you. As soon as I opened it I thought "oh dear" . I cant even easily get to probe any of the wires. And if it did need a new cable, without a board to soldier on, it will be a nightmare for someone to repair id imagine. All the cables would be loosely goosey...although maybe cable ties, although even the small ones might be too big compared to this net bag they have made.

That's very kind of you. However before putting you out I'd get a new controller. All of the three hall sensors probed from the controller do not turn off, they just stay 5v when I turn it backwards. Although, the on and off signals come from the halls right? So... it can't be the controller? Could the controller force them to stay at 5v?

I just don't want to throw this kit away as it is a waste. So if anything id see if anyone here would be interested in buying or repairing it... although the hub doesn't look fun to repair. Pity they haven't made an ebike testers with julet plugs.

I want to buy a new ebike now. I have a 48v battery 20ah thought. Guess I could sell that as well, but I prefer 48v over 36v.

Woosh do two 48v kits which caught my eye, one which is 700 and another which can be either 700 or 27.5.. but do they have them in stock and would they sell without the battery? Ill email them then I can buy the bike I want which is compatible with the kit as they seem to be helpful.

Not as ideal as some internals to repair, most have the halls on a small circuit board which would make it easier to replace the halls, I wonder if this type is cheaper or easier to assemble.

I have a spare internal motor and I am planning a new build when the right bike comes along so I see no need for my spare... However there is a few points I should note, I deemed it faulty, it ran but did have that annoying click off click on at high speed or under load, that in all fairness the community never did quite explain and others reported a similar issue, neither the Dillenger nor the Yose 250 Front ever experience this, I put it down to either a fault on the motor or the controller. I was saving it for the 9 pin cable in case mine gave up the ghost however these are now wide spread and I shouldn't have a problem getting one if the need arises.

If you can not find a solution to your issue you are welcome to have it for the price of P&P and if it works for you then a small donation to my future projects if you can afford it, if it doesn't work then no worries. Hermes will ship it for about £10.00 but prices have risen since I last posted something out.

 

[quackstar84]

Apart from what I said in a previous post about a short, the only other logical cause would be that your ground wire is interrupted, so test for continuity between the thick black on your controller and any of the grounds of the hall sensors if you can get a probe to one.

The 4th sensor is the speed sensor for the LCD speed display.

Hello. I managed to get a beep on all three hall sensors and speed sensor (thanks). Id only get a beep on the ground right and not on the other two pins? Here's a photo, i like taking photos .

 

[Scorpio]

Hi, I spent a while trying to trace a simlar problem on my motor, yours has lots of insulation which is nice but makes testing difficult. It looks like all your black earth cables go into a single joint with heatshrink over - that might be the easiest place to get your meter probes. I added an extra earth wire just to test my hub, useful but I still have problems. Once you work out where the problem is I think your easiest option is just to replace the faulty bit(s) unless you like a challenge and want to try fixing the fault. Good luck.

 

[quackstar84]

Update. Sorry i probed the wrong hole (That's what he said) I got confused with mirroring.

Hello. When I set the meter to 20k I get a reading of 13.60 or 19.99 at one point on all three phase cables soldered onto the board. However I get no beep of continuity between the blue cable in the julet which is soldered onto the circuit board? Have I found the issue?

 

[quackstar84]

Hi, I spent a while trying to trace a simlar problem on my motor, yours has lots of insulation which is nice but makes testing difficult. It looks like all your black earth cables go into a single joint with heatshrink over - that might be the easiest place to get your meter probes. I added an extra earth wire just to test my hub, useful but I still have problems. Once you work out where the problem is I think your easiest option is just to replace the faulty bit(s) unless you like a challenge and want to try fixing the fault. Good luck, ive written about it above.

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I may have found the issue

 

[vfr400]

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I may have found the issue

Now that you've eliminated an interrupted ground, the only logical cause of all three halls not working is a short to a motor phase wire. Did you check the motor cable very carefully?

 

[vfr400]

Hello. When I set the meter to 20k I get a reading of 13.60 or 19.99 at one point on all three phase cables soldered onto the board. However I get no beep of continuity between the blue cable in the julet which is soldered onto the circuit board? Have I found the issue?

That wouldn't stop the halls from switching. One thing occured to me. Maybe you have a dual mode controller that's been running sensorless. Try resoldering that blue wire, then see if it works..

 

[quackstar84]

Now that you've eliminated an interrupted ground, the only logical cause of all three halls not working is a short to a motor phase wire. Did you check the motor cable very carefully?

The part which goes into the motor looks fine. However the wires in there could be still be broken of course. The rust on the wire is from the spring.

 

[quackstar84]

That wouldn't stop the halls from switching. One thing occured to me. Maybe you have a dual mode controller that's been running sensorless. Try resoldering that blue wire, then see if it works..

Update. Sorry i probed the wrong hole (That's what he said) I got confused with mirroring

Now i remember, you're of course right about the sensors .

Here's a image of the blue wire and behide the controller. Does the solder look ok?

It did begin to make a rumbling/vibration sound before it died. Ive only just recalled.

 

[quackstar84]

The blue cable is fine. I was confused with which hole. I was probing a hall sensor .

 

[quackstar84]

The new yosepower kits have different lcds and controllers now? I was thinking of buying another so I have spares. However i believe i read they are uncompatible im this thread.

 

[quackstar84]

I managed to get directly on all three sensors and turn the wheel backwards. All were 4.25v and stayed there. I probed the left prong of the which on this image is the positive. Update: i tested the right prongs as well which stayed at 5.08v. Im happy with what I have tested and satisfied. Thank you very much for your help. Ive no idea how all three hall sensors popped?

 

[vfr400]

Everything in the photos looks good to me. There's still the possibility that something happened ages ago and it's been running sensorless until it got a new problem, like a popped mosfet. You could buy a new dual-mode controller and see how it runs sensorless. They normally run pretty well.

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[PC2017]

I got a nice dual voltage, 14a sinewave controller, however it is black and gets cut out hot in the summer, it was out in the open to boot, albeit it was 27 degs+ and no wind. But it looks amazing spesh now I put some gold heatsinks on it, whether they'll work or not remains to be seen. Oh and its julet.

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Aliexpress does take VAT at EPOS the last 4 items I ordered (throttle, cables, brake sensors & PAS)came from China and through customs and I assume they were delivered to a "warehouse" in the UK because they arrived via RM with tracked 48 labels on, no extra fees. They took too long and were internationally tracked to have been dispatch from the UK. However this controller was purchased a 2019.

 

[quackstar84]

Everything in the photos looks good to me. There's still the possibility that something happened ages ago and it's been running sensorless until it got a new problem, like a popped mosfet. You could buy a new dual-mode controller and see how it runs sensorless. They normally run pretty well.

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This would be a good long term solution. Pity im not skilled to change the cables. Good idea thought

 

[quackstar84]

I got a nice dual voltage, 14a sinewave controller, however it is black and gets cut out hot in the summer, it was out in the open to boot, albeit it was 27 degs+ and no wind. But it looks amazing spesh now I put some gold heatsinks on it, whether they'll work or not remains to be seen. Oh and its julet.

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www.aliexpress.com

Aliexpress does take VAT at EPOS the last 4 items I ordered (throttle, cables, brake sensors & PAS)came from China and through customs and I assume they were delivered to a "warehouse" in the UK because they arrived via RM with tracked 48 labels on, no extra fees. They took too long and were internationally tracked to have been dispatch from the UK. However this controller was purchased a 2019.

My controller over heated when I was claiming a hill on a sunny day. It's an 22ah and I had set the the controller to only take half that amount which is level 5. After that I went to level 3 which I believe is a third of the power the controller can give. I would have thought having a high rate controller yet using only half it's output would keep it cooler than the standard 15ah due to it being larger with more components? I also opened the bag it was in so air flowed through the heat sinks.

I can buy and get this in four days https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174701078934 although I lend my soldering iron to my brother in law and I need to change the power plugs. That should be ok as a replacement? Id much prefer a dual mode controller as vfr400 recommend thought.

Anyhow, I could take you up on your offer of the motor and if it doesn't work also buy a controller... if that doesn't work buy a new lcd3... if that doesn't work... watch the whole lot melt in a smelting furnace... although the 48v battery is ok.

The hall sensors are busted by my testing, I did do it correctly? I can pay a fair price for your motor upfront. How much would you be happy to sell for, although ive seen an issue of putting it all back into the wheel, it doesn't just want to "slot in" looks like it needs alot of pressure, can it be done by hand?

Thanks