Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

used the above type terminal blocks

I wanted to avoid taping things up as I was used to tidiness of the stealth integrated controller, I used one of these...


but the battery mount out wires where a gauge too big for it so I forced it in, I am wondering if this was causing the problem.

 

[vfr400]

I have used the above type terminal blocks which are readily available and they have never let me down. For a really good connection, strip back both wires about half an inch, twist together and shove into block under the two screws and tighten both screws. I usually cut the strips into singles first and tape up after.

Twisted wires and those terminal blocks are OK for houshold stuff, but copper oxidises in the conditions of riding, so it needs some sort of protection, like nickel plating. It might be OK at first, but could/would soon give you all sorts of problems, when the copper starts to disintegrate.

IMHO, the best solution is to solder the wires together and insulate with heat-shrink.

 

[PC2017]

solder the wires

In all honesty that idea never even crossed my mind, I had a one track mind of making it easy disconnect and, with that connector I didn't even pass that objective so why i didn't think about good old fashion soldering I really don't know - I even might get the soldering iron out and do it later for the next time i need to rig the YOSE controller.

All that said this new controller, the dolphin case mount is amazing on early testing it even feels smooth in relation to the motor, ie less vibration and certainly no cut outs, I have to say I am impressed, planed a 30 mile hilly run next week i'll see how it runs than, but of course I'l pack all the cables and the YOSE controller (with newly soldered battery connector) just in case - Thanks for tip vfr400

 

[Olleman]

I've done ~1500 miles with my kit now. No problems with the main components as of yet. I do have some vibration from the motor that gets enhanced by the frame but it's been this way more or less from the start and doesn't seem to deteriorate. I did buy the KT-D12L pas sensor from topbike kit and this one failed on me today. What point is there to use water proof connectors if the sensor in itself is not waterproof? Either way, I'm hoping topbike kit will replace it.

I know others have bought this sensor as well, did anyone else experience problems?

A bit off topic but I still love this thing! Besides being my commuter since February I have also done some really nice stretches during our summer holiday and I just keep smiling

 

[egroover]

I've done ~1500 miles with my kit now. No problems with the main components as of yet. I do have some vibration from the motor that gets enhanced by the frame but it's been this way more or less from the start and doesn't seem to deteriorate. I did buy the KT-D12L pas sensor from topbike kit and this one failed on me today. What point is there to use water proof connectors if the sensor in itself is not waterproof? Either way, I'm hoping topbike kit will replace it.

I know others have bought this sensor as well, did anyone else experience problems?

A bit off topic but I still love this thing! Besides being my commuter since February I have also done some really nice stretches during our summer holiday and I just keep smiling

My Yosepower (350w rear) gives me a slight vibration through the frame, I think they are all like that. Dunno if there's a way of isolating the vibration in any way..
I switched to a KT-D12L pas sensor too from topbikekit, much easier to fit to existing bottom bracket, no issues with mine, and have been through a lot of muck with it, but still early days. I did order a spare as they take a while to arrive, happy to have a tenner's worth of PAS kicking around ready to swap out if needed. I have mine fitted to the bottom of the seat tube just above the bottom bracket, probably less prone to water ingress compared to those fitted under the bottom bracket (if that's where you have it)

 

[Olleman]

My Yosepower (350w rear) gives me a slight vibration through the frame, I think they are all like that. Dunno if there's a way of isolating the vibration in any way..
I switched to a KT-D12L pas sensor too from topbikekit, much easier to fit to existing bottom bracket, no issues with mine, and have been through a lot of muck with it, but still early days. I did order a spare as they take a while to arrive, happy to have a tenner's worth of PAS kicking around ready to swap out if needed. I have mine fitted to the bottom of the seat tube just above the bottom bracket, probably less prone to water ingress compared to those fitted under the bottom bracket (if that's where you have

I have mine mounted the same way. Something must be wrong with mine because when I opened it up it was full of sand and water. Hopefully topbike kit sends a new one.

 

[jarob10]

I have mine mounted the same way. Something must be wrong with mine because when I opened it up it was full of sand and water. Hopefully topbike kit sends a new one.

When the replacement pas arrives, give the joints a generous layer of liquid insulation tape - wonderful stuff

 

[Olleman]

When the replacement pas arrives, give the joints a generous layer of liquid insulation tape - wonderful stuff/QUOTE]

Good tip, thanks!
Topbikekit will send a replacement after a fairly long email conversation. I also had to pay the shipping fee. In all fairness they asked "if" I wouldn't mind paying for it.

I ordered one extra for the future. The sensor is dirt cheap but these import costs in Sweden from outside of EU is ridiculous

 

[PC2017]

I do have some vibration

Yep I get that too but only till about 12 mph, it could be something to do with weight, mine feels extremely heavy with me and the battery on, that's why I will consider front hub again for my next build...

KT-D12L pas sensor

I see your point mine started to come a part at the top quickly so I popped some epoxy at the top and wrapped a bit of etape around it, plus they say these connector are waterproof but it never says whats attached to it is, the component is more water resistant and 1500 miles is not bad use. I am at 1000 miles on mine so far.

EDIT forgot about your import charges - sorry - I got stung £11.00 on my controller from aliexp here in the UK - £3.00 duty and £8.00 admin charge from Royal Mail ;(

I agree with egroover I have a spare ready and waiting...

I did order a spare as they take a while to arrive, happy to have a tenner's worth of PAS kicking around ready to swap out if needed.

 

[Olleman]

I have a friend that works with electronics who found the provlem, soon I have 3 PAS sensors

On another note, I have trouble with frequent punctures always around the valve area. It's always the rear tyre. I have "puncture free" inner tubes and reinforced outer tires. I always get a little budge on the side of the tyre around the valve area. With a lot of fiddling around I get most of the bubble/budge to disappear but not completley when looking close. It's almost like the wheel isn't 622mm but rather 620mm. I have tried different tyres and it's always the same. Seems like this must be related to my punctures somehow. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Sturmey]

I always get a little budge on the side of the tyre around the valve area. .....................Anybody have any ideas?

The tube is reinforced and stiff around the valve stem and this can very easily can get caught between the tyre bead and the rim. I would suggest that after fitting tyre and tube to wheel, push the valve stem back in to the wheel to make sure its not caught. Also make sure valve stem is lined up properly with hole and is free and not binding with rim and rim tape. Then pull valve loosely back out to normal position and inflate tyre slightly and make sure its even on the rim. There is a line on the side of the tyre to help with this. Then inflate and recheck.

 

[Olleman]

The tube is reinforced and stiff around the valve stem and this can very easily can get caught between the tyre bead and the rim. I would suggest that after fitting tyre and tube to wheel, push the valve stem back in to the wheel to make sure its not caught. Also make sure valve stem is lined up properly with hole and is free and not binding with rim and rim tape. Then pull valve loosely back out to normal position and inflate tyre slightly and make sure its even on the rim. There is a line on the side of the tyre to help with this. Then inflate and recheck./QUOTE]

I've practiced this routine the last couple of times I've changed the inner tube but it doesn't really help. This never happened with my old wheel which weren't double bottomed. Do I perhaps need a prolonged valve on the inner tube? I've used rather cheap inner tubes with dunlop valves but thrown away the thin lock nut to let the valve have some more room...

 

[Olleman]

Hmm I just measured the diameter of the wheel and compared to my old 700c rim. Tye difference is about 3-4mm and the rim with the motor is obviously the smaller one. Can anyone else confirm this? I get 630mm (motor rim) and 634mm (old rim)

I can easily remove the tyre without any tools when repairing a puncture, only with my hands.

 

[Laser Man]

The small difference in rim diameters shouldn't be a problem once the tyre is pumped up fully.
It does mean that you need to be much more careful about centering the tyre before you pump it up to full pressure. A good dose of talcum powder lets you manipulate the tyre position more easily with the inner tube partly inflated.
Sturmey's advice about pushing the valve in is good.

 

[vfr400]

The important dimension, which is the specified rim diameter is the surface where the bead of the tyre sits. It's not easy to measure that unless you make something that reaches over the rim or have some sort of massive calipers. The standard 700C is 622 mm to match what's written on the tyre. It can probably change a couple of MM with temperature and spoke tension.

Tyres with wired beads, like Marathon Plus get distorted if you fold them for shipping or if you lever them over the rims incorrectly. Once stretched like that, they can't be used for some rims.

The height of the edge of the rim is not standardised, so some rims have a greater overall diameter than others, which is why it's easier to assemble tyres to some compared with others. if your MPs have stretched, you can still use them on rims with larger overall diameter.

Show a photo of what your problem us, then maybe we can help you. Are you using liners or puncture resistant tyres. If liners, chuck them because they cause more punctures than they prevent.

 

[Olleman]

Ok, I understand about the dimensions of the rim. It may very well be 622mm but the outer edges are "smaller" than my other rims.

Ok, i'll try to summarize this.

I changed inner tube on both the yose rim today as well as on my wife's tyre (also 700c, no ebike). The tyre on wife's rim and mine differ one size in "thickness" but is otherwise the same tyre from the same "no name" brand. This goes for the inner tubes as well which are "puncture free".

Pictures
Wife's rim: No rugged line visible where the tyre meets the rim.
Yose rim: A couple mm of the rugged line visible where the tyre meets the rim. A tad more of the line is visible where the valve is...I just can't get it better than that. I pump to about 3,5 bars. Higher seems to accelerate the punctures even more.

Damaged tube side 1 and 2: This is how the two sides of the damaged inner tube looked like. Obviousley something has been squeezing on the inner tube. Almost seems like the inside of the tyre have made these marks.

The damaged tube is the first inner tube that had the damage away from the valve, perhaps 30cm or so from the valve. My other punctures has always had damage within 5cm of the valve.

I have not used a liner on the rim before but the last time I changed tyre I actually added one thinking that this would finally solve my problems.

 

[Sturmey]

....... This never happened with my old wheel which weren't double bottomed. ........

Hmm. Interesting. I wondering if during fitting the tyre, if your turning the tyre on the rim. This can result in creasing the tube at one side of the valve and stretching on the other side. This is easily seen on single wall rims as the valve will be crooked coming out of rim . However, on double wall rims, the valve is held straight by the two walls and it may not be apparent. Again, I would recommend pushing the valve stem back in before inflation to make sure everything is straight. If the valve is not free and seems to be pulling to one side, you need (will no pressure in tube) to straighten the valve by turning tyre and tube slightly on rim.
PS. A longer valve stem can make things a little easier with double walled rims.

 

[Olleman]

Ok, will try this when I have the next puncture

 

[Hush]

First of all, excuse my poor english
I would like to convert a steel bike to electric with a rear wheel Yose bike.
Questions: are the levers brakes in the kit compatible with caliper brakes ?
I think they would need to have two different positions of anchorage, one for Vbrakes and another one for calipers and cantilevers.
The PAS delivered with the kit seems ... of low quality, is there any alternative ?
Have you any advice or warning ?
Thank you for reading.
Hush

 

[vfr400]

The brake levers work with any cable brake system except if you have your gear shifters and brakes integrated into the same unit. The levers contain a simple 2-wire switch that goes on when you operate the brake. You can use your existing brakes and levers and fit your own switch wherever and however you want as long as it switches on when you operate the brake.

I' not sure what you mean by "low quality" for the PAS. Any problems that people get are normally because either they didn't fit it right or they didn't use the correct settings in the LCD.

Pedal sensors are not always easy to fit. You have to plan which type to use and how to fit it depending on which type of bottom bracket your bike gas and how much space there is between the crank and the bottom bracket. You must show us photographs of that area of your bike for us to give exact advice.

General advice: Fit a 48v system rather than 36V. Everything is the same except that you can get more torque for hill-climbing when you want it.