Yosepower hub kits.

[quackstar84]

Pose a sticker on the bike, I quote:

5 Marking, labelling
In addition to the requirements of EN 14764, the EPAC shall be visibly and durably marked according to EN15194 as follows:

EPAC
According to EN 15194
25 km/h
250 W

If you want to go the whole hog you can find a certificate on-line and make your own with you as constructor and including the words "self certified by the constructor"

I'm going to have a custom sticker made with what kiwi has stated here

 

[PC2017]

having issues with a seller on Aliexpress

No issues as yet, I have just been reading some horror stories that's all - my new dolphin controller mount has been dispatched so fingers crossed it works!

Personal opinion when it comes to the UK law - when an actual semi active middle aged person can pedal [on a good day] 14-17 mph having a 15.5 mph cut off seems rather odd, 17-18 mph cut off or law would have made more sense to me, when I travel at 15 mph old guys over take me on racing bikes

Just peel all your stickers off, I have had the odd cop look at my setup but never have I been stopped or questioned about it - "15.5 mph cut off sir, yes officer it's a 250w motor may i go now, thank you officer and good day" - I've just jinxed myself haven't I!

 

[quackstar84]

Hopefully you'll have it soon if not now

yeah since coming down from 30mph off from my 1000w motor it is quite a bored lol. I've managed to get to 20mph with the limit off on straights. But I need to use it to exercise anyhow.

I've put the power limit from 10 to 3 so I have to put more effort in and it doesn't damage the motor. I still see it using 500w from a starting point. Do these motors have a recommend max watt? Once I'm peddling I tend to only use 50w.

Hopefully you touched wood? lol. Thank again. I'm going out for a quick ride now.

No issues as yet, I have just been reading some horror stories that's all - my new dolphin controller mount has been dispatched so fingers crossed it works!

Personal opinion when it comes to the UK law - when an actual semi active middle aged person can pedal [on a good day] 14-17 mph having a 15.5 mph cut off seems rather odd, 17-18 mph cut off or law would have made more sense to me, when I travel at 15 mph old guys over take me on racing bikes

Just peel all your stickers off, I have had the odd cop look at my setup but never have I been stopped or questioned about it - "15.5 mph cut off sir, yes officer it's a 250w motor may i go now, thank you officer and good day" - I've just jinxed myself haven't I!

 

[quackstar84]

With the controller I have (22amp?) even c5 at 3 seems easy at assistance 1 lol. So I've set it to one which is better. The guy who set it up (I couldn't fix the bent disc brake or swap over my cogs although it turned out I had a cassette anyway lol and my kit is a freewheel) didnt set up the gears and my rear dereailer is bent anyhow. It was £50 quid with new cables... he didn't service it though :/. Pretty lame but he did show me a method of securing the battery pack.

 

[quackstar84]

If I use it regularly I'll be upgrading to a new bike I think. Or a £200-300 quid second hand bike.

 

[PC2017]

It'll be the torque of the motor that makes it quick off the mark I don't believe you can change that fact, the 500w you see is normal my 250w use to hit 450w on hills and PAS 5 from stand still, the 350w is a continuous wattage rating as if the motor was running for a long period of time at 350w it would not over heat or show signs of damage.

I watched a load of youtube videos on how to set up brakes and gears and even installed and setup my first derailleur in the spring, I got that brand new from halfords on £18, a new gear cable £2 [made all the difference]and a derailleur hanger £10 ( but once you know which style it is you can find them for £3 on ebay from china though ) I strapped the bike up on a make-shift stand creative tethering around my flat stair using my bike locks and after about 3 attempts I got them spot on and I have had no troubles with gears since, they have just started to rattle a little so and good clean and reset is now needed but that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

 

[quackstar84]

It'll be the torque of the motor that makes it quick off the mark I don't believe you can change that fact, the 500w you see is normal my 250w use to hit 450w on hills and PAS 5 from stand still, the 350w is a continuous wattage rating as if the motor was running for a long period of time at 350w it would not over heat or show signs of damage.

I watched a load of youtube videos on how to set up brakes and gears and even installed and setup my first derailleur in the spring, I got that brand new from halfords on £18, a new gear cable £2 [made all the difference]and a derailleur hanger £10 ( but once you know which style it is you can find them for £3 on ebay from china though ) I strapped the bike up on a make-shift stand creative tethering around my flat stair using my bike locks and after about 3 attempts I got them spot on and I have had no troubles with gears since, they have just started to rattle a little so and good clean and reset is now needed but that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Thank you for explaining the wattage.

Glad to hear you sorted yours out and learnt. I do enjoy watching videos, the park tools channel is good.

Well my rear derailleur snapped in half yesterday lol. It damaged the chain as well so I broke it off. I've told the guy who serviced it and he said "bring it down and I'll fix it" although when i asked him the cost i heard no reply. He set the gears up and put a 7 speed cog on the motor (will a 9 speed cog fit on the freewheel version please?) though. The change got stuck in between the motor and large cog.

I've been riding it daily and really enjoying it. I seem to have an habit of bike related things breaking on me lol.

Thank you.

 

[quackstar84]

Oh he has quoted me a new chain and derailleur fitted £30. I've already paid £50 for new brake pads, straightening the front disk brake, putting the cog on the wheel then setting the kit up.

 

[quackstar84]

Wouldn't it be him not setting up the rear derailleur correctly which caused it to snap?

 

[PC2017]

park tools channel

Yep I watch them too with a mix of other professional setups and some home made DIY videos of some British or US dude in his garage with a crappy, but does the job cam, sometimes these less professional guys work on the types of bike normal folk ride, there is some hidden gems out there!

Yep the trouble with converting a normal bike to an ebike is normal bikes tend to be limited in the miles they cover due to weather and distance issues, however when you add a motor the rider can go out in high winds and travel much further much faster and it becomes a sense of thrill and excitement that quickly becomes additive... I do miss a good ten mile ride when I've been out for the day or sick in bed. This, alongside the weight of the kit tends to put extra strain on a bike that is only used to, or should be used for the weight of the rider, my mate has an oxygen e-mate steel frame factory designed and built ebike, it was delivered with high end parts including wheels, shocks and tyres and even this bike after 2000 miles had issues, mainly from lack of service, TLC and the occasional bout of dipsomania that caused numerous fall and crashes... I always recommend good tyres, new parts when things look worn concentrating on the drive train, gears, chains etc, every so often check your tyre pressure and most important of all CHECK YOUR NUTS!

 

[vfr400]

Wouldn't it be him not setting up the rear derailleur correctly which caused it to snap?

Yup. I bet he didn't set the low gear end-stop, so when you selected bottom gear, it pulled the derailleur into the spokes, which snapped it off.

 

[PC2017]

Notice 143

Dam - I said it would happen eventually, all these years of buying from China and not a penny in customs charges, VAT or RMail fees and then I ordered from Aliexpress - £35.00 for the controller and £11.17 in custom fees this includes the RM handling fee, the itemisation of the charges is £3.17 import VAT and RM fee £8.00, but I did budget £15.00 so happy but not happy at the same time, still cheaper that the UK equivalent @ £75.00. I will have to wait and see what declared value they put on the box but I would imagine it's not £35.00

 

[Nealh]

Notice 143

Dam - I said it would happen eventually, all these years of buying from China and not a penny in customs charges, VAT or RMail fees and then I ordered from Aliexpress - £35.00 for the controller and £11.17 in custom fees this includes the RM handling fee, the itemisation of the charges is £3.17 import VAT and RM fee £8.00, but I did budget £15.00 so happy but not happy at the same time, still cheaper that the UK equivalent @ £75.00. I will have to wait and see what declared value they put on the box but I would imagine it's not £35.00

You were unlucky, not yet paid any fees from AliEx.
Depends on the $$$ they out down for value.

 

[PC2017]

RM fee is the stinger - I will see what the declaration says - I was thinking it could be a seller that does not have much business in the UK, maybe these legal highs made in China or the GOV website states that ALL mail sent via Royalmail or Parcelforce from outside the EU is subject to customs checks, it did not mention anything about other couriers, I am now curious if it would of got stopped if I selected DHL and paid the extra - I am now budgeting again, I just ordered some e-cig stuff and put too much in my basket so the total is near $50 however they have just messaged me to say they'll split the package due to re-stocking times, so fingers crossed for these packages!

 

[vfr400]

RM fee is the stinger

Technically, you don't need to pay it as you didn't make any contract with them. If you go on the various consumer forums, there are a load of threads about it and how to avoid paying it.

If you've already got the goods, you can tell them that their contract is with the seller, so they have to get it from them. You have a choice as to who to send the duty payments to. you can pay RM or send it direct to customs.

If you don't have the goods, they won't let you have them until you pay, but you can ask them to send it back to customs, and you can collect it from there after paying the duty, but that only works if you live near the customs, and even the, I bet customs will make it as difficult for you as they can.

You don't have to pay duty on anything that cost under £15, but they include the shipping cost in that £15, so that doesn't leave much.

All things considered, for the sake of £10 or whatever it is, the easiest option is just to pay.

 

[PC2017]

Cool to know however I don't live anywhere near Atherstone Intl RDC
that's where the tracking had it entering customs. They could of made the RM fee more near the actual customs charge IMO, now knowing it would cost £3.17 in VAT (assuming it's charged as VAT) I would be more that happy to pay that for £35.00 worth of gear and help keep this great country ticking over for another day but keep the RM fee out of it!

Oh well for the amount I've had from China including stuff that came from the EU I think I'll let a post person justify their job for another day!

 

[PC2017]

Yep 20.00 USD, declared so roughly £16.00 so VAT on that, £1.00 over the allowance cost me VAT + £8.00 - Oh well the controller works perfectly with no "cut outs" or "stall" like incidents as yet.

Which has me thinking how does everyone connect the battery to the battery to controller lead... and yes this is back on topic... Pictures plz

I wounder if my battery connector is at fault, not allowing enough current at certain points causing the "cut outs"

 

[vfr400]

If you paid £30 in total, it's still a bargain. A replacement from a UK supplier would be considerably more.

 

[PC2017]

They tried to help me out by putting 20USD on the declaration, at the old exchange rate of 1.4USD to 1GBP then maybe but at 1.2USD now not much help - The total cost of the controller was £33.00 after aliex coupons +£11.17 RM/VAT so yep still a bargain @£44.17 - dillenger UK £69.00+P&P £5.95ish - BMS battery although rated @20amps quoted me $50.00 then they would work out the shipping.

 

[Sturmey]

[QUOTE="PC2017, post: 510443, member: 21242"
Which has me thinking how does everyone connect the battery to the battery to controller lead... and yes this is back on topic... Pictures plz
[/QUOTE]



I have used the above type terminal blocks which are readily available and they have never let me down. For a really good connection, strip back both wires about half an inch, twist together and shove into block under the two screws and tighten both screws. I usually cut the strips into singles first and tape up after.