Olleman, I'm surprised the crank arm is not coming off with the tool. Are you using the end cap (normally magnetic) on the end on the screw bolt part that pushes against the bottom bracket spindle ? If so is it fouling on the crank arm and you tighten the silver bolt clockwise? These normally come off simply with the tool, if anything if it wasn't budging, when you turn the silver screw bolt clockwise, it would strip the thread of the crank arm. Sorry probably not explaining myself that well, and trying not to insult you as I'm sure you know what you are doing and just have the mother of all seized crank arms
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Been there, done that... Had to cut the crank arm off with a hacksaw because I completely stripped the thread. Now I know how a crank arm extractor works
well now my threads are gone too....I didn't use the little thing egroover talked about but I did use a bolt of similar dimensions that should work the same way. Tried with the "thing" now and that's what did it to my threads, I got a bit overexcited I suppose.
The other thing that bugs me immensely is that the throttle isn't working either. I have set the C7 setting to 1 and confirmed this by entereing the setup again but I can't activate it above 7 km/h and the down button long pressed. I have reset the whole thing to factory defaults but again, no luck.
Someone has a clue?
The other thing that bugs me immensely is that the throttle isn't working either. I have set the C7 setting to 1 and confirmed this by entereing the setup again but I can't activate it above 7 km/h and the down button long pressed. I have reset the whole thing to factory defaults but again, no luck.
Someone has a clue?
Thanks! The manual I got from Yosepower had a dreadful translation. I had no idea that P4 had anything to do with the throttle. It's called "handlebar startup" in my manual.
Now I only have to find a fitting crank arm and then I'm gonna take this god forsaken thing of with a grinder!
Now I only have to find a fitting crank arm and then I'm gonna take this god forsaken thing of with a grinder!
Back from ny first 10km with liberal use of the throttle. I have a big smile on my face as so many others tomorrow I'll take the kids on the trailer for a longer run!
tomorrow I'll take the kids on the trailer for a longer run!
EDIT I am a bit later to the party
What LCD have you got?? check your manual first
LCD3 settings
Set P4 to 0(zero)
Set C4 to either 1[6kph max (walking speed)]
2[should allow you to enter your own max speed]
3[not sure on this one without playing around on mine]
4[Speed by PAS level as displayed on the LCD ie PAS1 slow PAS2 faster etc]
Mines on C4=4
Thats a new one, so you have to hold down the "down key" for a few seconds then hit the throttle??
What LCD have you got?? check your manual first
LCD3 settings
Set P4 to 0(zero)
Set C4 to either 1[6kph max (walking speed)]
2[should allow you to enter your own max speed]
3[not sure on this one without playing around on mine]
4[Speed by PAS level as displayed on the LCD ie PAS1 slow PAS2 faster etc]
Mines on C4=4
I have the LCD3.
Correct, enter walking assist, ie press down and when the walking assist is engaged, use the throttle. Wasn't very convenient...
Hmmm I'm thinking about my options.
Either buy the other pas from topbike. This will be pricey since Sweden has some new import laws that adds 7£ on everything from outside Europe. Or find a replacement left arm and use a grinder. Mine seems to be an outdated Shimano fc m191. Or take it to the bike shop which most likely will cost at least the amount of the PAS.
Thoughts anyone?
Correct, enter walking assist, ie press down and when the walking assist is engaged, use the throttle. Wasn't very convenient...
Hmmm I'm thinking about my options.
Either buy the other pas from topbike. This will be pricey since Sweden has some new import laws that adds 7£ on everything from outside Europe. Or find a replacement left arm and use a grinder. Mine seems to be an outdated Shimano fc m191. Or take it to the bike shop which most likely will cost at least the amount of the PAS.
Thoughts anyone?
It might be worth popping into the the bike shop and ask em if they have any old stock and discuss the options without taking the bike in with you, also have a good look around the local are you might find a dodge bike shop thats cheaper lol....
That walk assist then throttle, that is - defo a new one....
I did not know about that Sweden post thing I ordered my stuff in September ish and I did not notice it or it was not in affect as of then.
You could try aliexpress - as long as the PAS is KT and Julet for the connection you should be ok - I have never ordered from aliexpress so I can NOT vouch for them, but if the PAS does not work they should refund your money or send you and another....
Were did you get the Sweden post info from?? I think it only relates to Swedish residents buying from china to avoid VAT not to post passing through, however that was just a quick google - I have been buying stuff from china all 2018 and some of that post went through Sweden and I have never have additional charges.
Yes, I'm Swedish - we don't have any good electrical bike forums in Sweden. It sucks this extra fee but from what I've heard it's coming to the whole EU within a year or two - not a problem for you guys though.
Been out all day with the kids in the trailer. It's a true joy to get the extra help from the motor. The trailer is really heavy draging around with two kids and all this snow. After 17km and -4 degrees (don't know if that matters) I just crossed from 75% battery to 50%. I'm pleased with that, I think I will get more or less double without the trailer. So far the cheap yosepower battery has delivered OK.
Been out all day with the kids in the trailer. It's a true joy to get the extra help from the motor. The trailer is really heavy draging around with two kids and all this snow. After 17km and -4 degrees (don't know if that matters) I just crossed from 75% battery to 50%. I'm pleased with that, I think I will get more or less double without the trailer. So far the cheap yosepower battery has delivered OK.
If brexit ever actually happens lol - but thats enough political talk otherwise I might get moaned at lol....
Cool pic our weather is warm in comparison! The bike looks sweet good job and I bet the kids love it too....
I do think batteries do react to colder and or hotter weather patterns but I only started noticing this as my batteries aged, I barely get 3-4 miles out on one bar in the cold and 5-7 in the summer, maybe its the amount of effort I put in the ride but I have been trying to pedal more this winter than last....
On a different topic I took the cover off my Yose 250w to see if I could change out the internals for the Dill 350w its fair to say it was just a tad too big - but the Yose inside was rather interesting BLACK grease with no signs of burning (forgot a pic of that sorry) but check the sole hall sensor![GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
Attachments
Is it still a hall sensor if not then what sensor would I did if I needed to replace it??
My local bike shop couldn't really help, "if the threads are ruined I can't help you". A friend has a couple of "gear pullers" so I'll have a try with them tomorrow, if that doesn't work I'll go with the PAS from topbikekit.
Two questions regarding the kit:
1. How do you treat the controller in the bag when it's raining. Is the yose bag waterproof enough or how to you manage this?
2. Even though I'm quite pleased with the power from the kit I'm going to want to try the solder mod. Any tips on how to proceed with this with the lowest risk of damaging the controller? I'm thinking of weighing the solder but perhaps that's overkill!?
Two questions regarding the kit:
1. How do you treat the controller in the bag when it's raining. Is the yose bag waterproof enough or how to you manage this?
2. Even though I'm quite pleased with the power from the kit I'm going to want to try the solder mod. Any tips on how to proceed with this with the lowest risk of damaging the controller? I'm thinking of weighing the solder but perhaps that's overkill!?
Ebay and Amazon sell plastic boxes to hold controllers onto bikes. Cheap and much nicer than bags.
When I took my Yose controller a part there was a weak rubber seal that snapped, I wouldn't risk a heavy rain storm, my stealth controller struggles after heavy rain, today I power washed the bike and it died after 300-400 miles and about 5 power washes, panicked, thought it was the motor, so I will be using the YOSE controller tomorrow. As for soldering the controller best ask the others I just brake things!
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