Yosepower hub kits.

[egroover]

You will have to go 122mm as the extra is equal to both sides, I doubt that 6mm will make much of a difference though if necessary you could take a grinder to the rhs if you needed to.

Top man Nealh, thanks

 

[lyme]

I've recently had to do the same with my Yose Power kit and replaced a 113mm B/B with a 122mm B/B. I tried to shorten the r/h side of the bottom bracket to bring the chainset back to its original driveline by grinding a few mm's off but then realised the chainset sits on a slight taper on the bottom bracket to help it tighten up and by grinding a few mm's off, the chainset did not sit any closer to the original driveline so I carefully ground a bit of the taper back on all four sides but now found when I am pedalling the chainset is not running perfectly true to the bottom bracket so I suppose I can try and grind a little more off the taper or just purchase another bottom bracket for £9 and leave well alone.

As they say you win some and loose some!!!

 

[awol]

Hi ..... any particular reason I couldn't have my existing front wheel rebuilt to accommodate the motor??

You would need to check the number of spokes in your front rim match the motor. Motors generally have 36 holes.

 

[egroover]

I've recently had to do the same with my Yose Power kit and replaced a 113mm B/B with a 122mm B/B. I tried to shorten the r/h side of the bottom bracket to bring the chainset back to its original driveline by grinding a few mm's off but then realised the chainset sits on a slight taper on the bottom bracket to help it tighten up and by grinding a few mm's off, the chainset did not sit any closer to the original driveline so I carefully ground a bit of the taper back on all four sides but now found when I am pedalling the chainset is not running perfectly true to the bottom bracket so I suppose I can try and grind a little more off the taper or just purchase another bottom bracket for £9 and leave well alone.

As they say you win some and loose some!!!

Thanks Lyme, that's interesting that only an extra 4.5mm on the rhs was enough to knock the driveline out so it was a problem for you. I might have to rethink this as it'll be an extra 6mm for me if I go from a 110mm to a 122mm. Maybe it's worth me trying going to a 118mm first What a pain in the arse these pas sensors are

 

[PC2017]

So in order to fit the yosepower pas sensor

I assume you mean the all-in-one circle PAS same style as this one http://www.topbikekit.com/ktv12l-pas-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-p-550.html

If the cost and hassle is going to mount up, IMO i would think about another style of KT PAS, I did not find the "kit" PAS to be very good and I have yet to find anyone who has mentioned installing one and liking it, I gave up with mine minutes into installing it and used my dillenger original for a while, now I use a cheap one but as mentioned it works both ways so if you accidentally pedal backwards it engages the motor, it took a bit of getting used to but it works and thats the main thing.

 

[PC2017]

is there anything worth changing in the KT-LCD3 setup

As requested sorry totally forgot....
Have you started you conversion yet or even finished??? lol

Settings on the LCD I changed..

NB don't forget to note your settings as they are DEFAULT
and its always good to get used to the motor before you change anything assuming its your first ride on one!

C3 the PAS initialization mode of power assist ratio gear or the start up mode - I changed to C3=0 now each time I switch on PAS level is ZERO.

C4 is handlebar(throttle) function setting mode or Throttle mode

first you will need to change P1 setting if it is not set to 0 as default which I don't think it is..

P4 Handlebar(throttle) Startup Mode - if this is set to 1 then you will not be able to use the throttle until you have started pedalling to engage the PAS - you might wish to hold back changing this until you have a feel for the kit,
P4=0 will allow the throttle to be engaged from any PAS level WITHOUT pedalling first AND will be at MAX SPEED.

At MAX SPEED there will be a "kick" to the motor as the torque engages some setups may have a slight delay a second or so.
BE AWARE this is why I changed C4

There is a secondary setting on C4 it should read 50 I believe if you change this it will change the MAX SPEED level

C4=4 which is Handlebar(throttle) gears is distinguished according to the display meter.
SO PAS1=low speed throttle PAS2=A little fast on just throttle and so on PAS5=top speed on throttle only
PEDALLING thus engaging the PAS sensor while using the throttle even at PAS1 on mine over rides this and increase the speed to near max

AND
C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode - takes a while to master this one, once active, throttle or pedal to desired speed, and maintain that speed with a constant stream of power/watts to the motor, (you can not just coast down a hill with no power and engage cruise control it will not work) then carefully hold the "down" button until "cruise" appears on the LCD - C7=1

I changed C8 as well but unless you have a TEMP sensor in the actual motor this will not work and I don't believe many do, it did not work on mine lol

 

[Hightechpete]

Hi pete - You'll have to let me know how you get on with it - Which one did you order

I ordered the Julet connection, I've been looking for a well engineered RHS pas for some time. I don't normally like anything that requires zip ties, but at least this one is cheap enough to experiment with, and I won't need to dismantle the bottom bracket. Will report back once fitted.

The neatest solution I can find is the T281 from King meter, but they won't sell one direct to the end user http://www.kingmeters.com/project/t-281-sensor/

Pete.

 

[PC2017]

I ordered the Julet connection, I've been looking for a well engineered RHS pas for some time

Oh amazing thanks for the update - and definitely, keep me posted, if you have success I will order one myself!

That King meter one you found is a bloody good idea, I wonder why we haven't seen any on end user sites yet?? (or has anyone seen one of of these for sale??)

 

[egroover]

As requested sorry totally forgot....
Have you started you conversion yet or even finished??? lol

Settings on the LCD I changed..

NB don't forget to note your settings as they are DEFAULT
and its always good to get used to the motor before you change anything assuming its your first ride on one!

C3 the PAS initialization mode of power assist ratio gear or the start up mode - I changed to C3=0 now each time I switch on PAS level is ZERO.

C4 is handlebar(throttle) function setting mode or Throttle mode

first you will need to change P1 setting if it is not set to 0 as default which I don't think it is..

P4 Handlebar(throttle) Startup Mode - if this is set to 1 then you will not be able to use the throttle until you have started pedalling to engage the PAS - you might wish to hold back changing this until you have a feel for the kit,
P4=0 will allow the throttle to be engaged from any PAS level WITHOUT pedalling first AND will be at MAX SPEED.

At MAX SPEED there will be a "kick" to the motor as the torque engages some setups may have a slight delay a second or so.
BE AWARE this is why I changed C4

There is a secondary setting on C4 it should read 50 I believe if you change this it will change the MAX SPEED level

C4=4 which is Handlebar(throttle) gears is distinguished according to the display meter.
SO PAS1=low speed throttle PAS2=A little fast on just throttle and so on PAS5=top speed on throttle only
PEDALLING thus engaging the PAS sensor while using the throttle even at PAS1 on mine over rides this and increase the speed to near max

AND
C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode - takes a while to master this one, once active, throttle or pedal to desired speed, and maintain that speed with a constant stream of power/watts to the motor, (you can not just coast down a hill with no power and engage cruise control it will not work) then carefully hold the "down" button until "cruise" appears on the LCD - C7=1

I changed C8 as well but unless you have a TEMP sensor in the actual motor this will not work and I don't believe many do, it did not work on mine lol

Thanks for that, very useful. Hoping to start my build tonight/tomorrow, just waiting to pick up the longer 122mm BB from Halfords later.
After reading Lyme's experience, I'm thinking I might need one of those slimline PAS sensors, and go back to narrower BB width if the chainline goes out massively. Anyway, will see later, it might be alright

cheers all

 

[PC2017]

I'm thinking I might need one of those slimline PAS sensors

hightechpete is getting a new PAS sensor ( from i think topbikekit.com) keep an eye out for his posts, he's gona let me know how he gets on with it!

 

[lyme]

Just picked up yet another 122mm bottom bracket from Halfords and fitted this afternoon and the chainline doesn't look to bad but not had chance to try it yet.

Hope your build goes well egroover and look forward to see what you think of it.

 

[dav]

C4 is handlebar(throttle) function setting mode or Throttle mode

first you will need to change P1 setting if it is not set to 0 as default which I don't think it is..

What value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.

Thank you for instructions I was trying to make throttle work in ratio with PAS level.

 

[awol]

What value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.

P1=Motor gear reduction ratio X number of magnets in the motor

If your motor runs ok then leave as is but this setting can also affect the speed readout so check your LCD speed reading against a gps app and again, if the speeds are the same then leave setting as is.

 

[egroover]

Installed the PAS sensor last night onto the new 122mm bottom bracket, still rubs the left hand crank arm, very tight, but will stick with it for now.
I panicked and thought yosepower had forgot to send the controller, but ralised and confirmed by Alice at yosepower, the controller is built into the downtube battery holder. Pretty neat, makes the supplied controller frame bag supplied redundant.

I've been thinking about the potential for issues in mounting the battery on the downtube of my alloy framed GT MTB. The frame tube walls are quite thin, I'm worried that even with 3 rivnut fixings (I can use 1 available bottle mount and drilll 2 new ones), will the battery be too heavy for the frame ? The battery and holder is pretty heavy at 3.5kgs, I'm concerned with a little off road jarring could be too much...what do you think?

Or do I install the battery in a frame bag like this ? (or similar, any recommendations ?)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ibera-Bicycle-Triangle-Frame-Bag/dp/B006JA8WEG?th=1&psc=1


Not ideal, makes charging it a bit of a pain, but will offer more support perhaps without damaging the frame ??
Close to drilling those holes and adding rivnuts, or bottling it and buying a bag...cheers guys

 

[anotherkiwi]

Installed the PAS sensor last night onto the new 122mm bottom bracket, still rubs the left hand crank arm, very tight, but will stick with it for now.

Careful! From experience if it (the disk) rubs even slightly the friction will create heat, the plastic will swell and... disaster will strike. No rubbing! Even if you have 1/10th of a mm and it doesn't rub you won't have problems.

 

[wheeliepete]

If the PAS sensor is still tight take a little material off the inside face off the crank arm. Sometimes just the paint is enough. Rubbing it on a piece of sand paper on a flat surface will do it, if you have nothing else. As AK says, it will not survive for long if it is too tight. Make sure you install the rivnuts good and tight, as any movement will result in them working loose quickly, they should be fine for the road. Add some velcro straps around the battery and frame for added security off road.

 

[Nealh]

What value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.

Thank you for instructions I was trying to make throttle work in ratio with PAS level.

P1 87 is default setting and correct.
Magnets are 16 and reduction ration is approx. 5:1.

 

[PC2017]

What value P1 needs to

Might have got that wrong, It should read P4 and relates to the line below about P4, AND I checked it all twice

CORRECTION P4 needs to change SORRY not P1 yep mine is set to 87

the controller is built into the downtube battery holder.

Cool - I thought mine was the alone out there,I use my dillenger original controller "stealth", same inbuilt just below the battery on the rack and mines done 3000 miles....

Thank you for instructions I was trying to make throttle work in ratio with PAS level.

Did you change it alright??

 

[PC2017]

The frame tube walls are quite thin, I'm worried that even with 3 rivnut fixings (I can use 1 available bottle mount and drilll 2 new ones), will the battery be too heavy for the frame ? The battery and holder is pretty heavy at 3.5kgs, I'm concerned with a little off road jarring could be too much...what do you think?

My rack only lined(s) up with one bottle cage hole, and I just use a cable tie, not the best option and I don't tie it too tight with the cable tie it snapped the plastic on my first rack, luckily I had another, which came with my second battery, because a little road jarring on my first battery knocked some hot glue on some internal padding and made the internal battery move, I could feel it...

Now i took that battery case off carefully and re-glued the padding in place, that 1st battery is still going strong and periodically I remove the case and check the internals and I don't leave the house while its on charge!

My 1st bike was steel this new bike is alloy and I have the same setup battery rack cable tie, and a part from the odd dirt track I mainly use it on road and avoid potholes but that said both batteries have taken some hammer over the 2 and half years I've had them, but if you are going to do off road or a lot of tracks then maybe like wheeliepete says velcro and rivnuts might be a good option with the alloy, I would do one rivnut and one bottle cage screw (high tensile strength) and see how it goes on the road.

EDIT - Just weighed up my battery 3.2kg(ish) without rack on aluminium downtube , I couldn't tell if the frame tube walls are thin though, how would you find that out??? - I did a really bumpy dirty track, at 12-15mph to overtake an very fast old dude on a normal bike, put us to shame. yesterday https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Centrica/@53.5460574,-0.5105038,842m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x4878f21f8ad56079:0x2e89e54c883a84e6!8m2!3d53.5410242!4d-0.5057348
satellite image zoom - track between A18 silverside lane and sangreat kennels, about half mile, I do this sort of track regular.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Look at what I found at fasterbikes.eu

https://fasterbikes.eu/en/batteries/313-battery-holder-bottle-bobbatteries.html

No drilling and the hose clamp is neatly hidden under a cache.