Top man Nealh, thanksYou will have to go 122mm as the extra is equal to both sides, I doubt that 6mm will make much of a difference though if necessary you could take a grinder to the rhs if you needed to.
Top man Nealh, thanksYou will have to go 122mm as the extra is equal to both sides, I doubt that 6mm will make much of a difference though if necessary you could take a grinder to the rhs if you needed to.
You would need to check the number of spokes in your front rim match the motor. Motors generally have 36 holes.Hi ..... any particular reason I couldn't have my existing front wheel rebuilt to accommodate the motor??
Thanks Lyme, that's interesting that only an extra 4.5mm on the rhs was enough to knock the driveline out so it was a problem for you. I might have to rethink this as it'll be an extra 6mm for me if I go from a 110mm to a 122mm. Maybe it's worth me trying going to a 118mm first What a pain in the arse these pas sensors areI've recently had to do the same with my Yose Power kit and replaced a 113mm B/B with a 122mm B/B. I tried to shorten the r/h side of the bottom bracket to bring the chainset back to its original driveline by grinding a few mm's off but then realised the chainset sits on a slight taper on the bottom bracket to help it tighten up and by grinding a few mm's off, the chainset did not sit any closer to the original driveline so I carefully ground a bit of the taper back on all four sides but now found when I am pedalling the chainset is not running perfectly true to the bottom bracket so I suppose I can try and grind a little more off the taper or just purchase another bottom bracket for £9 and leave well alone.
As they say you win some and loose some!!!
I assume you mean the all-in-one circle PAS same style as this one http://www.topbikekit.com/ktv12l-pas-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-p-550.htmlSo in order to fit the yosepower pas sensor
As requested sorry totally forgot....is there anything worth changing in the KT-LCD3 setup
I ordered the Julet connection, I've been looking for a well engineered RHS pas for some time. I don't normally like anything that requires zip ties, but at least this one is cheap enough to experiment with, and I won't need to dismantle the bottom bracket. Will report back once fitted.Hi pete - You'll have to let me know how you get on with it - Which one did you order
Oh amazing thanks for the update - and definitely, keep me posted, if you have success I will order one myself!I ordered the Julet connection, I've been looking for a well engineered RHS pas for some time
Thanks for that, very useful. Hoping to start my build tonight/tomorrow, just waiting to pick up the longer 122mm BB from Halfords later.As requested sorry totally forgot....
Have you started you conversion yet or even finished??? lol
Settings on the LCD I changed..
NB don't forget to note your settings as they are DEFAULT
and its always good to get used to the motor before you change anything assuming its your first ride on one!
C3 the PAS initialization mode of power assist ratio gear or the start up mode - I changed to C3=0 now each time I switch on PAS level is ZERO.
C4 is handlebar(throttle) function setting mode or Throttle mode
first you will need to change P1 setting if it is not set to 0 as default which I don't think it is..
P4 Handlebar(throttle) Startup Mode - if this is set to 1 then you will not be able to use the throttle until you have started pedalling to engage the PAS - you might wish to hold back changing this until you have a feel for the kit,
P4=0 will allow the throttle to be engaged from any PAS level WITHOUT pedalling first AND will be at MAX SPEED.
At MAX SPEED there will be a "kick" to the motor as the torque engages some setups may have a slight delay a second or so.
BE AWARE this is why I changed C4
There is a secondary setting on C4 it should read 50 I believe if you change this it will change the MAX SPEED level
C4=4 which is Handlebar(throttle) gears is distinguished according to the display meter.
SO PAS1=low speed throttle PAS2=A little fast on just throttle and so on PAS5=top speed on throttle only
PEDALLING thus engaging the PAS sensor while using the throttle even at PAS1 on mine over rides this and increase the speed to near max
AND
C7 Cruise Function Setting Mode - takes a while to master this one, once active, throttle or pedal to desired speed, and maintain that speed with a constant stream of power/watts to the motor, (you can not just coast down a hill with no power and engage cruise control it will not work) then carefully hold the "down" button until "cruise" appears on the LCD - C7=1
I changed C8 as well but unless you have a TEMP sensor in the actual motor this will not work and I don't believe many do, it did not work on mine lol
hightechpete is getting a new PAS sensor ( from i think topbikekit.com) keep an eye out for his posts, he's gona let me know how he gets on with it!I'm thinking I might need one of those slimline PAS sensors
What value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.C4 is handlebar(throttle) function setting mode or Throttle mode
first you will need to change P1 setting if it is not set to 0 as default which I don't think it is..
P1=Motor gear reduction ratio X number of magnets in the motorWhat value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.
Careful! From experience if it (the disk) rubs even slightly the friction will create heat, the plastic will swell and... disaster will strike. No rubbing! Even if you have 1/10th of a mm and it doesn't rub you won't have problems.Installed the PAS sensor last night onto the new 122mm bottom bracket, still rubs the left hand crank arm, very tight, but will stick with it for now.
P1 87 is default setting and correct.What value P1 needs to be for 36V, 350W, 10Ah, 28' bike and motor. Default is 87.
Thank you for instructions I was trying to make throttle work in ratio with PAS level.
Might have got that wrong, It should read P4 and relates to the line below about P4, AND I checked it all twiceWhat value P1 needs to
Cool - I thought mine was the alone out there,I use my dillenger original controller "stealth", same inbuilt just below the battery on the rack and mines done 3000 miles....the controller is built into the downtube battery holder.
Did you change it alright??Thank you for instructions I was trying to make throttle work in ratio with PAS level.
My rack only lined(s) up with one bottle cage hole, and I just use a cable tie, not the best option and I don't tie it too tight with the cable tie it snapped the plastic on my first rack, luckily I had another, which came with my second battery, because a little road jarring on my first battery knocked some hot glue on some internal padding and made the internal battery move, I could feel it...The frame tube walls are quite thin, I'm worried that even with 3 rivnut fixings (I can use 1 available bottle mount and drilll 2 new ones), will the battery be too heavy for the frame ? The battery and holder is pretty heavy at 3.5kgs, I'm concerned with a little off road jarring could be too much...what do you think?