Yer man - I like them - £23.00 ish including P&P - I would get them if they were a bit cheaper!Look at what I found
Yer man - I like them - £23.00 ish including P&P - I would get them if they were a bit cheaper!Look at what I found
I was just googling around and since I can actually secure my rack with one bottle cage screw (and had no problems yet a part from needed a tighten every month) how about something like this... attached with the large jubilee clip maybe a few would do it, just thinking out loud though....or not as the case maybe.made by Grin Tech, so not gonna be cheap
Which kit did you purchase from Yose Power with the controller built into the battery holder?Any tips on covering up the unused connectors, i.e. the brake kill connectors and the throttle connector to stop water getting in ?
Also, no need for the frame bag for the controller as built into the battery holder, any tips on bunching up the extra cable length and strapping to the frame neatly ?
YesWhich kit did you purchase from Yose Power with the controller built into the battery holder?
I think he wants to know WHICH kit you bought lol - me to actually!
I guess they would be worth a try as a cheap alternative to the above and better than no fixing. You may want to protect your frame with something to prevent scratches.how about something like this... attached with the large jubilee clip
Yer I was think that myself, based on the look of the Grin Tech jubilee clip it's wrapped in black tape, I was thinking e-tape, I will have a go for 99p and a jubilee clip, I might need a small screw, I could hack saw the end off a screw if required.You may want to protect your frame with something to prevent scratches.
I ordered it off the yosepower ebay store, but looks like they have sold out now. The same kit I got is on their store ( https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-36V350W-Black-Hub-Motor-with-Cassettle-for-Rear-Wheel-26"-&-HL1-36V13Ah-Battery-Conversion-Kit-DIY-E-bike-110.html ), however one picture shows a separate controller and another picture shows the battery holder with what looks like the build in controller the same as mine. I'd email Alice at yosepower to confirm if you are thinking of orderingWhich kit did you purchase from Yose Power with the controller built into the battery holder?
That's the long term goal of mine nealh - I also wish there could be a controller with different amps with an easy wire kit adaptor or waterproof moulded connectors already to go, there is a few cables out there for the motor which is cool maybe at the point of needing one I might find it hard to obtain one, but until then, I have to figure out whether to buy new brake sensors, not use them or chop and splice the ones I have, then there's the LCD I have a perfectly good one but it to will need splicing unless there's a cable adaptor for that I have not found yet and lastly those none waterproof cables/connectors, so many cables to tidy and I will miss my stealth controller17 or 20a controller and 48v where it really excels and comes to life.
Nealh, are you referring to this yosepower 350w 36v motor? Can you run this motor at 48v ?It would be nice if Yose just sold the hub as a stand alone item then you could marry it up with 17 or 20a controller and 48v where it really excels and comes to life.
Today a 67mile ride along North Downs and Downs Link, pas 5 seeing 650w of power and easy peasy up any steeper inclines. Pas 1 and 21mph on level ground with only 88w at the hub. No heat from the hub and running super cool more then I can say about my blue watt meter which was quite warm.
A truly great hub in the 3kg weight sector, never a need to think of buying a 1kw D/D hub. I would say it would handle 22a ok.
Any one thinking shouldn't think no more and just get/try one and if you have the know how use it at 48v.
Should be able to run any 36v motor at 48v as long as you get a 48v battery and a 48v controller and not go silly on the amps - like nealh says 17-20amp should be ok and you can untangle the unfathomable old wiring to the yose julet wiring, as of now there is a julet motor connector to old wires but that's about it so far but I am looking slowly but still looking got to save some cash up first - I feel it could be a costly process unless you can get hold of a lot of spare parts cheaply, oh and know what you are doing, unlike meare you referring to this yosepower 350w 36v motor
Yes, rear 350w 36v 270/270rpm winding, my kit come from elifeshop2012 on ebay. I only used the hub as I had KT dual volt 20a controller and lcd3 etc,etc in use with Q128c so just swapped motor wheel, I find the Yose hub to be better esp with no power.Nealh, are you referring to this yosepower 350w 36v motor? Can you run this motor at 48v ?
Would this cable be any good for the LCD from a standard wired controller??and lcd3 etc
Nice one wheeliepete - I wonder if you could just use it as a controller, somehow bypass the battery connector, looks like I could sweetust seen on the topbikekit site they do a 48v 15 A
The pic of the controller connectors are not clear at all, kt controller (dual mode) has 5 wire connector for lcd .Would this cable be any good for the LCD from a standard wired controller??
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Waterproof-Main-Cable-for-Electric-Bike-Connect-with-Display-Brake-Lever-Controller-4-in-1-Electric/1295626_32832314132.html?spm=2114.12010606.layer-91o8cf.391.723640fcJaI3Gw&gps-id=5298742&scm=1007.14677.92111.0&scm_id=1007.14677.92111.0&scm-url=1007.14677.92111.0&pvid=53ba0fcf-e405-49d7-99ad-7a8922ddadef