Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

Yes please, PC2017, be great to see your LCD3 settings

Just thinking the main bits I changed were the throttle to PAS level I've mentioned - also cruise control is not set as default I enabled that, comes in handy when vaping lol but can drain your battery (I use a 10ah and a 14ah) and the other, which I found the most important was by default it remembers the last PAS level you were in and auto sets it when you switch on next, I found this to be troublesome and have it now set to 0 each time I switch it on again, because if your in PAS 5 switch off then on again, say the next day catch the throttle(all be it my throttle was once upside down)BAM full power!

 

[Nealh]

Generally there is no real need to change any of the settings as they are usually good straight out of the box.
Speed setting in the basic screen is the main one and wheel size which should be set.
It's worth while scrolling thru and making a note of all the settings if you want to change any.
P3 is worth a look as current control is better then speed control in my view.
P4 is throttle setting if used, setting is for throttle always active or pedal first.
C5 not C10 allows less current and any reduction will be for all 5 levels of pas. Though if you want less current select a lower assist level so that you always have max current available for throttle or pas 5.
C14 allows for pas tuning so if need be you can have it set to strong signal if you feel pas is a bit weak.

Other wise there is not a lot to mess about with.

Post note.
Edited wrong C info.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Turn the LCD back-light all the way down if you ride at night, even then it is strong. I have my LCD set to select level 1 when I turn it on, I tried level 0 but I have a HW brake sensor so not worried about bumping a pedal and having the bike run away. I have C14 set to strong.

 

[PC2017]

C10 allows less current

My manual say "restore default setting" for C10??

Quote - C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode

But i'll have a look at C14 though, mine needs adjusting

 

[PC2017]

HW brake sensor

I am Intrigued, never heard of one of those, I find I had to set mine to 0 my dodgy PAS I got from Banggood (no longer stocked, shame really £6.00) is bi-directional, I if I catch the pedal or pull the bike back, its like on of those elastic band cars you made as kids lol - On the up side it's a really good PAS 1000 miles and its not moved once, I had to run it using my original 12 magnet disk though.

 

[Nealh]

My manual say "restore default setting" for C10??

Quote - C10 Automatically Restore Default Setting Mode

But i'll have a look at C14 though, mine needs adjusting

Correct it was typo error, don't know why I inputted C10. Now corrected.

 

[PC2017]

This has already been covered I am sure of it... but I am having a thick day and this is not a one off....

PAS sensors....

Can this be used on the KT-LCD3 setup

KT-D12L

http://www.topbikekit.com/ktd12l-dual-hall-sensor-signals-easy-installation-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-p-610.html

AND if the above is the KT-D12L then is there a similar name for this one...

http://www.topbikekit.com/king-meter-speed-sensor-for-ebike-p-256.html

I wouldn't mind this one if it had a JULET connector on it...

Side note... I have a few more queries about my YOSE kit and how to make it work on the CHEAP without the LCD as I wish to keep it as a spare!

 

[Hightechpete]

Can this be used on the KT-LCD3 setup

KT-D12L

Hope it works, I just ordered one. The plan is to glue 5 magnets into the granny ring allen bolts, a much neater solution.
The Yosepower KT PAS was £12 with a £15 delivery charge, wouldn't pay that on principle. They refused to send it in an envelope, DHL only, hence the charge.
Thanks for the link.
Pete.

 

[Nealh]

This has already been covered I am sure of it... but I am having a thick day and this is not a one off....

PAS sensors....

Can this be used on the KT-LCD3 setup

KT-D12L

http://www.topbikekit.com/ktd12l-dual-hall-sensor-signals-easy-installation-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-p-610.html

AND if the above is the KT-D12L then is there a similar name for this one...

http://www.topbikekit.com/king-meter-speed-sensor-for-ebike-p-256.html

I wouldn't mind this one if it had a JULET connector on it...

Side note... I have a few more queries about my YOSE kit and how to make it work on the CHEAP without the LCD as I wish to keep it as a spare!

Both will work with KT controllers or any controller as long as the wire sequence is correct.
You most likely will have to set C1 to 1,2 or 3.
The speed sensor is standard King meter offering and will work as long as the wiring sequence is correct.

To use the hub/controller with no lcd, the lcd connection will require two pairs of wires to be linked together, by doing this you will loose the 5 pas levels and will have only one default pas which one I don't know. Throttle will be available.
Link Red & Blue together and Black & Yellow together, they have to be as two separate pairs.

 

[Nealh]

The D12L indicates that it is left fitting to work but pretty sure it will work on the rhs, you may have to reverse the magnets or orientate the sensor 180 degrees.

Wire it in and then manually pass the disc by the sensor to test before fitting to check operation.

 

[PC2017]

To use the hub/controller with no lcd,

I heard about this before thanks nealh, but is there a chance that I could fit one the cheap LED meters to it and if so which one(s)??

 

[wheeliepete]

This one will work with a KT controller.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24V-36V-48V-Electric-Bicycle-KT-LED-890-Control-Panel-Display-Electric-Bike-Parts/1314442_32613417275.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.5f4a37b4NApKMH

 

[PC2017]

Hope it works, I just ordered one.

Hi pete - You'll have to let me know how you get on with it - Which one did you order the one with the JST connector or the JULET connector, because I ordered the same style one with the JST connector from BMSbattery before I knew about topbikekit and that one would not work and I tried every possible wire combo there was and left and right side , I DID however have my suspicions that it was faulty because I then ordered one from BangGood for $6.00 or so and wired that up correctly 1st time and it could go on either side of the bike the only draw back, like I mentioned before is pedalling backwards lol - Real shame that banggood don't stock them anymore because its lasting well.

Same one (well looks like it anyway)[I took the sensor off and fashioned it to the bike with a bit of bendy metal and cable ties and its not moved once and used a 12 magnet disk instead of the useless one supplied]

I think the PAS that come with the YOSE kit is rubbish and looking on the site they don't even sell them individually, goes to show IMO

$2.00 + $3.15 (EST) shipping - bargain!

http://www.topbikekit.com/five-poles-paspulse-padel-assistant-sensor-for-electric-bicycle-p-250.html (5 magnets)

Identical I thinks but with 8 magnets
http://www.topbikekit.com/eight-poles-paspulse-padel-assistant-sensor-for-electric-bicycle-p-251.html

 

[PC2017]

This one will work with a KT controller.

NICE ONE wheeliepete perfect, I will have a look

 

[PC2017]

This one will work with a KT controller.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...ml?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.5f4a37b4NApKMH

kudos to wheeliepete as mentioned DOES anyone have one of these spare for sale and DOES anyone have a "copy setting cable" spare???

 

[alan kerr]

Hi ..... new member .... first posting ... having read the start of this thread I wonder whether a kit from the same supplier would be suitable for converting a Trek 7200FX to front hub power .... road use only in an area with plenty of hills ..... they don't do a kit for 700c front wheels which mine currently is .... any particular reason I couldn't have my existing front wheel rebuilt to accommodate the motor??

Alan

 

[PC2017]

any particular reason I couldn't have my existing front wheel rebuilt to accommodate the motor??

If your wheels are top quality then maybe, most hub motor wheels come double-wall with a stronger grade spokes, you could buy a kit and have the motor removed from the wheel, you'll have to decide on front or rear and have a local bike shop that have experience with e-bikes preferable that the sell and repair them. My friend just had his rear wheel re-built by the local bike and it's a reputable bike shop, it cost upwards of £80.00 and I assume they started from scratch.

Disclaimer - lol
This is my thoughts on the matter I would wait for some of the more knowledge blessed people on here to weigh in before you do anything!

Oh and welcome!

 

[egroover]

Hi guys, just need some advice re bottom bracket size. Have taken out my existing Shimano bb-un52, it's 73 x 110mm spindle length long. I only have about 2mm clearance between the left hand crank arm and the bottom bracket shell. So in order to fit the yosepower pas sensor I need another 5 mm, but if I go with say 118mm long, does that give me an extra 8mm on the left hand side, or is it just an extra 4 mm on both sides ? If thats not enough do I go for the 73 x 122m version, but will my chain line be massively out then ?

cheers

 

[Nealh]

Hi guys, just need some advice re bottom bracket size. Have taken out my existing Shimano bb-un52, it's 73 x 110mm spindle length long. I only have about 2mm clearance between the left hand crank arm and the bottom bracket shell. So in order to fit the yosepower pas sensor I need another 5 mm, but if I go with say 118mm long, does that give me an extra 8mm on the left hand side, or is it just an extra 4 mm on both sides ? If thats not enough do I go for the 73 x 122m version, but will my chain line be massively out then ?

cheers

You will have to go 122mm as the extra is equal to both sides, I doubt that 6mm will make much of a difference though if necessary you could take a grinder to the rhs if you needed to.

 

[Nealh]

Hi ..... new member .... first posting ... having read the start of this thread I wonder whether a kit from the same supplier would be suitable for converting a Trek 7200FX to front hub power .... road use only in an area with plenty of hills ..... they don't do a kit for 700c front wheels which mine currently is .... any particular reason I couldn't have my existing front wheel rebuilt to accommodate the motor??

Alan

No need buy the 28" kit as the sizes are the same in wheel terms.
Don't buy the heavy 500/1000w black D/D hubs as they are not suitable.
The only annoying thing about the description is they don't supply hub rpm details, however an ebay seller of the same kit states them as 210/230 rpm which is a high torque winding for hills.