I'll see if any shops around my town sell them as I don't want to pay £5 quid for 10; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Anderson-PowerPole-30amp-Connectors-PP30-30A-30-amp-10pcs/153137492618?hash=item23a7b4b28a:g:VgEAAOSw4F9cVvza&frcectupt=true
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
That one is £10 less than the topbikekit one, thats a good saving, could you pop up some measurements H,L,W of the box excluding cables if poss?
Sure mate. ill do it tomorrow when im at my dad's as i don't have it with me at the moment.
Yer I was looking at that idea but I am a devil for stealth controllers but once I figure how and where to fit a larger controller on my bike I will no doubt go down the same route. The trouble I have is the underside of the down tube is gear cabled same as the top bar, a plastic box on the seat post tube maybe too big so the battery wont fit in well and I can not stand the triangle bag, surprisingly more people noticed the bike was elecy with the tri-bag on then noticed the battery
I have never tried a mid drive although I have thought about it once or twice - I have to say, and plenty would disagree but having a rear hub on a hard tail is not as good as I was expecting and I do in many ways miss my 350w front on suspension it was a whole lot more fun than the rear hub, I think it was a weight distribution thing that made the front hub better, 350w front are rare unless you want to add unknown charges for customs and VAT from aliexpress which I may consider for a future build... An idea perhaps for a full suspension bike, however be aware I am not saying it didn't have its cons!
should be new version - C5=5 (22a would)give 16.54a or C5=6 17.6a
PC2017 I noted your comment about the a 350w front hub being more fun, the idea of a front hub on my full suspension bike has got some appeal as I could strap the cables in a front bag on the bars and just have the throttle and buttons on the bars and the screen controller & cables in the bag, all I need is which hub to get then I will attempt to build a wheel using a tubules rim & Tyre so I can run lower presser of road, some of the green lanes here in north wales that I used to go on with my off-road motorbike aren’t green ore lanes lol, any advice on which hub to try and get would be welcome, by the way the new pas sensor has arrived I am just about to go and fit it.
You may need YOSE brake sensors if you're using hydraulic brakes, I recommend brake senors however mine aren't YOSE; I got a standard 1to4 cable (dillenger/most common) and have dillenger(red julet) brake sensors.
Then think wiring, like you mentioned and bag at the front. bear in mind I am using a stealth controller at the moment.
Then comes the torque arm - grey area this one, many different opinions on this topic, if you want to run 350w on 17+ amps on suspension (aluminium) forks I would wholesomely advise you look into a torque arm, it will cost and you may need to purchase different styles, shapes and sizes to find a good fit, my advice on this is check your measurements and be prepared to return stuff that's not right, I ended up installing the torque arm on the inside of the fork for a straight fit though some mite say it still was not an effective t-arm, YOUTUBE faceless vapor for my old style fitting, though this was smacked down the instant I posted it, read the comments if you find the vid.
I was looking at aliexpress HOWEVER there is no way on knowing if the delivery company will pass this through customs, if they do from what I understand there could be a 6% customs charge + VAT(20%) and then possibly a carrier charge.
I was looking at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BAFANG-36V-250W-350W-500W-Front-8Fun-Motor-Wheel-Brushless-Gear-Hub-Motor-For-Bike-Ebike/32962141568.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.328.47ab27d7BOwkAK&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_9_10065_10130_10068_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=4f742118-6f9c-430d-9000-7dcb26ad6785-45&algo_pvid=4f742118-6f9c-430d-9000-7dcb26ad6785&transAbTest=ae803_4
36v 350w front silver Bafang, LCD, I have not done any research on this but it should run on the YOSE system and if not you do get the whole wiring system with it...
There is plenty more stuff to think of before you go front hub, I did loads of research before I purchase my Dillenger and they are a good option if you want a battery but my dillenger motor did 2000 miles before it died although I did fix it for another 2000 miles but then it did fail and this was not heavy use, gravel paths, potholes, a few hard bumps but no major trails.
PC2017 Thanks for the information it gives me plenty to think about but at the moment getting the one I am setting up is giving me enough problems the new pas sensor has not made the difference I hoped it would, the assistance setting wattage are staying at 0 ore 9 and I am having to use the throttle to get me up the hills so before I start cutting plugs off would some kind sole tell me the P & C settings they have their display set at.
Yose motor settings.
P1 87
P2 1
P3 1 Current control
P4 Throttle control 0 always active or 1 pedal first, you decide.
P5 10
C1 01 , I use 10 pole magnet count. Yours may differ so you have to tell us which magnet disc count you are using.
C2 0
C3 8
C4 0
C5 10 max current, this can be set to any current you wish depending on software version.
C6 2 Backlight
C7 0
C8 0
C9 0
C10 N
C11 0 For lcd3
C12 7 LVC31.5V
C13 0
C14 3 PAS Signal strong.
P1 87
P2 1
P3 1 Current control
P4 Throttle control 0 always active or 1 pedal first, you decide.
P5 10
C1 01 , I use 10 pole magnet count. Yours may differ so you have to tell us which magnet disc count you are using.
C2 0
C3 8
C4 0
C5 10 max current, this can be set to any current you wish depending on software version.
C6 2 Backlight
C7 0
C8 0
C9 0
C10 N
C11 0 For lcd3
C12 7 LVC31.5V
C13 0
C14 3 PAS Signal strong.
Nice one - you are a star good sir!
That is a strange one - check the list posted by Nealh above and make sure your magnet disk is fairly close to the sensor, fully plugged in and on the left side.
If you still have problems let us know
I had a funny one yesterday, the system just took off on PAS1 with no throttle or PAS engagement, even when I removed the throt and PAS it still went every time I selected PAS1 the motor went, I must of got some degreaser in the electrics when cleaning, it went back to normal after 5 mile!
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Hello I have been having fun in trying to get the hub to work since I last posted thanks for the setting information Nealth, my correspondence with YOSE have gone like this they asked for photos of the PAS on the bike then sent a new PAS which unfortunately didn’t solve the problem, they then asked me to put C1 on 6, I did this but it made no difference, I then said I thought it was the female connector to the PAS unit they asked for more photos and they send me another controller to test it arrived today, I have just put the new controller on and now the throttle doesn’t work and an error message of 01 comes up also the assist settings does not work, I reverted to the old controller and the throttle works but not the assist settings, if anybody has got any ideas let me know.
Make a note of your current settings first, then try ghosting my settings as listed below like for like, You will have to then engage PAS 1 on the LCD as it will start up in PAS 0 (every time you switch off and on again we can alter this later in need be) once in PAS 1 start pedalling (using the PAS) then try PAS 2-5
WARNING if your PAS does now work and you hit the throttle out of habit while pedalling it will bypass PAS 1 and engage MAX speed!
if this does not work then check all the connectors, pins and holes see if any pins are bent or holes are blocked
Then try factory reset I highly doubt this will make any difference but hey worth a shot
the throttle inputs via the 1to4 cable and the PAS via the controller on a separate wire.
P1=86
p2=1
p3=1
p4=0
p5=12
C
1= 07
2= 0
3= 0
4= 4 60
5= 10
6= 3
7= 1
8= 1
9= 0
10= n
11= 0
12= 4
13= 0
14= 2
WARNING if your PAS does now work and you hit the throttle out of habit while pedalling it will bypass PAS 1 and engage MAX speed!
if this does not work then check all the connectors, pins and holes see if any pins are bent or holes are blocked
Then try factory reset I highly doubt this will make any difference but hey worth a shot
the throttle inputs via the 1to4 cable and the PAS via the controller on a separate wire.
P1=86
p2=1
p3=1
p4=0
p5=12
C
1= 07
2= 0
3= 0
4= 4 60
5= 10
6= 3
7= 1
8= 1
9= 0
10= n
11= 0
12= 4
13= 0
14= 2
I have had a extensive road test of 70 miles the last week and fiddled with P1 to get it a near perfect reading compared with my GPS. Setting the km/h to default 25, I found P1 needed to be 84. On increasing km/h to 32 cut off the speeds matched the gps reading to with in 0.1mph.
I had P1 at 87 and cut off was 17.1 mph with 25km/h set, bringing it down to 84 now gives a corrected 15.6 mph cut off with 25km/h set. All with correct wheel size selected.
I had P1 at 87 and cut off was 17.1 mph with 25km/h set, bringing it down to 84 now gives a corrected 15.6 mph cut off with 25km/h set. All with correct wheel size selected.
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ooooooh 17.5 miles EACH way, what AH battery did you get? I would be pushing my luck at 17 miles each way, that is my point of no return or as I call it time to turn the funk back, but to get that kind of range I would have to stay at PAS 1 and 2 only hitting PAS 5 for nasty hills PAS 4 if possible, never using the throttle and on a calm sunny day - that's on my 3 year old 14AH - I hope all works and goes well Biga!
Hello I finally got round to testing my kit. Seems ok apart from the throttle not work yet making an odd moving symbol just where temperature gauge is? Any ideas please?
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lol I used this bike to test it. it needs new brakes pads. I read to be careful if you're not using the cutout brakes which comes with it,so I wasnt on it long. no freewheel cog either.
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