Yosepower hub kits.

[vfr400]

This is the pas sensor supplied in the kit (Cable:52cm W/O connector
Dual hall sensor,12 signals output)and is an integrated all in one item, I have taken the crank arm off to check that it is sitting right up to the crank and it is secure and when you turn the pedals the inner turns.

I reset the factory settings then changed P3=1 & P4=0 TO allow the throttle to work independently, I have tested C1 setting on 07 as the revers setting and 00 as the forward setting neither seem to have any affect, I have knottiest that using the throttle I am using over 400w but on the pas settings 0 watts are being used.

Is there a way of testing the sensor to see if it is giving a signal?

Thanks for your help hopefully I will get there in the end or I will be going round using throttle up every hill round hear, will I was out testing I past lycra clad man going uphill I don’t think he was impressed when I sailed past.

It's dead easy to test the PAS, which you should do before contacting the supplier.

1. Check that your connector wires go red to red, black to black and signal to signal.

2. With the bike switched on and everything connected, measure the voltage between the red and black wires. That's not easy if you have the waterproof connectors. in that case you have to o[pen the controller and measure at the points where the wires are soldered. It should be 5V.

3. measure the voltage between the black and the signal wire while you turn the pedals slowly. You should see the 5V stepping on and off as you turn.

For anybody reading this, I don't recommend using the waterproof connectors on the controller, because it makes any testing or fault-finding very difficult. If you have the choice, always go for the block connectors.

 

[Biga]

Thanks for the input PC2017 you were spot on I have bent a pin on the connector one of the holes in the male plug looks to be obstructed and when I pushed the plug together I bent the pin, ore that’s my excuse anyway, it looks like I will be using the throttle for a bit. Also thanks vfr400 for your input also, I have e mailed yose to see if I can get a replacement, but if not and I have to cut the connection off what type of three pin connector do I need to solder in its place.

 

[PC2017]

It's dead easy to test the PAS

NB -We are all using the Julet waterproof connectors as they are standard with YOSE kits they are near impossible to check as there is no exposed wire!

 

[PC2017]

I have to cut the connection off what type of three pin connector do I need to solder in its place

Yes you could make your own JST connector for a cheap fix however it think waterproofing or purchase a new JULET KT PAS from aliexpress or topbikekit just be aware of stinging P&P charges.

Some pins can snap or fold real easy, it usually is caused by a blocked hole on the other connector, I have connectors on my 3 year old 1to4 cable still going strong today as for my first YOSE kit the 1to4 cable a pin fell off after about 2 days, so don't be so quick to blame yourself, YOSE did send my another cable after a few emails though.

 

[vfr400]

Thanks for the input PC2017 you were spot on I have bent a pin on the connector one of the holes in the male plug looks to be obstructed and when I pushed the plug together I bent the pin, ore that’s my excuse anyway, it looks like I will be using the throttle for a bit. Also thanks vfr400 for your input also, I have e mailed yose to see if I can get a replacement, but if not and I have to cut the connection off what type of three pin connector do I need to solder in its place.

You don't need a connector. Just solder the wires together and insulate them with shrink-sleeve. The best connector is always no connector. You'll never need to disconnect the sensor, and even if you did, it's quicker to cut the wires and resolder them than it is to solder on a connector.

 

[PC2017]

have e mailed yose to see if I can get a replacement

Just had a thought - If yose will NOT send you one and still want your kit to be waterproof I have one spare[as new condition]that came with my newest kit (march 2019) if you want it let me know there would be a small charge involved but less than what it would cost to purchase new....

Ebike Lift/Right KT-V12L/R KT-D12L/R Dual Hall PAS Sensor with Julet 3P WP/SM plug Signal Hall PAS BZ10C 5/8PAS - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Ebike Parts KT D12L for KT Controller Dual Hall Sensor Signals Easy Installation Julet 3 Pins WP Plug KT-V12L KT-BZ 10C PAS - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

I have only had a quick look at these products

This is were I got the PAS I am using from, this is the KT PAS I purchased - looks cheap but delivery will cost!

KT-D12L/KT-D12R Dual Hall Sensor Signals Easy Installation With 3pins Julet WP Plug [KT-D12L/R waterproof connector] - $6.42 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! KT-D12L/KT-D12R Dual Hall Sensor Signals Easy Installation With 3pins Julet WP Plug [KT-D12L/R waterproof connector] - ★★★★★ KT-D12L/KT-D12R Dual Hall Sensor Signals Easy Installation With 3pins Waterproof connector1.Offers higher accuracy and further detection distance 2.Easy...

www.topbikekit.com

 

[Biga]

PC2017 Thanks for the offer but I think I will go with VFR400 suggestion and cut the plug off and solder the wires and use a bit of heat shrink round them. I have been in correspondence with YOSE they asked for a picture and have passed it on to their engineer’s we shall see what transpires. I am going to purchase a 17amp controller and a pass sensor to have as spares, once again thanks for your & VFR400 help it is all a learning experience

 

[PC2017]

Thanks for the offer

No worries Biga - sounds like you have a solid plan, were are you getting your 17amp controller from any links?

 

[Biga]

This is the controller I am thinking of ordering I know it is 22amp but in another thread I read, it was Nealh I think he side you could reduce the amps from the lcd 3, this is the battery I went with (enerpower-hailong-pro-36v-frame-li-ion-battery-1750ah-diy-ga-charger-4a) as I wanted to try and get a battery that would last & and I could also use on my full suspension bike for a bit of green lane riding, but before I convert that I will have to decide on hub or mid drive that’s why I thought I would go hub drive on my tourer first to see what I thought of E-bike conversions and if I hadn’t had my problem with plugging in the pas I would have probable been very impressed. any thought before i order will be welcome.

These are the links:
KT 36V/48V 500W 22A 9mosfet sine wave controller

KT V12L PAS with Julei 3Pins Waterproof Connector KT-V12L Dual Hall Sensor Easy Assembling 12PAS 80cm length

 

[Nealh]

Depending on how the C5 is configured on the lcd3 you can limit amperage by 5a or by up to 50%.
My one is 5a and use the 9 fet 25a non Julet controller ( except for motor 9 pin).

 

[PC2017]

thinking of ordering I know it is 22amp

Yer I was looking at that idea but I am a devil for stealth controllers but once I figure how and where to fit a larger controller on my bike I will no doubt go down the same route. The trouble I have is the underside of the down tube is gear cabled same as the top bar, a plastic box on the seat post tube maybe too big so the battery wont fit in well and I can not stand the triangle bag, surprisingly more people noticed the bike was elecy with the tri-bag on then noticed the battery

I have never tried a mid drive although I have thought about it once or twice - I have to say, and plenty would disagree but having a rear hub on a hard tail is not as good as I was expecting and I do in many ways miss my 350w front on suspension it was a whole lot more fun than the rear hub, I think it was a weight distribution thing that made the front hub better, 350w front are rare unless you want to add unknown charges for customs and VAT from aliexpress which I may consider for a future build... An idea perhaps for a full suspension bike, however be aware I am not saying it didn't have its cons!

C5 is configured

should be new version - C5=5 (22a would)give 16.54a or C5=6 17.6a

 

[vfr400]

A while ago, I read that a controller with a non-symmetric arrangement of MOSFETs, (9 and 15) couldn't do sine-wave commutation. I wish I had studied the article a bit more, but I thought that there was no reason to, as I could accept the simple rule of not using a 9 or 15 MOSFET one. The Chinese websites list them as sine wave, but I'm not sure that you can trust them. Has anybody used one and confirmed that it gives the same smooth and quiet operation as the known sine-wave ones?

The 22 amp controller is bigger than the 6 MOSFET ones.

 

[Frank D]

A while ago, I read that a controller with a non-symmetric arrangement of MOSFETs, (9 and 15) couldn't do sine-wave commutation. I wish I had studied the article a bit more, but I thought that there was no reason to, as I could accept the simple rule of not using a 9 or 15 MOSFET one. The Chinese websites list them as sine wave, but I'm not sure that you can trust them. Has anybody used one and confirmed that it gives the same smooth and quiet operation as the known sine-wave ones?

The 22 amp controller is bigger than the 6 MOSFET ones.

 

[Frank D]

Hi , yes I use the 9 mosfet 25amp in my yosepower, it is as smooth as previous 6 mosfet. I run it at both 36v and 48v it is fast.

 

[PC2017]

I read that

Do you remember where you read this info? It might be worth an in depth read.

These are the links:

I just noticed these are both Topbikekit products on their aliexpress account lol if you are buying a new PAS I recommend the KT-D12L the one I have, it is near enough universal fitting; some have mentioned having to modify parts in the crank or bottom bracket to fit the YOSE standard PAS, thinking of your full suspension idea.

 

[Nealh]

I use 25a KT it is documented in this thread, it is sinewave/sensored and delivers smooth/ quietly like the 6 fetters, I've abandoned the 48v route using 12v boosters and find it plenty fast with 36v for my needs. In benign conditions I can hit 23/24mph in PAS 1 & 2, PAS 2 is just easier to get the target speed a bit quicker. Higher PAS level sue entirely just for inclines.

 

[vfr400]

Do you remember where you read this info? It might be worth an in depth read.

I think it was on Endless-Sphere about 3 or 4 years ago.

Thanks guys. It doesn't really matter if they're sign wave or not if they're equally as smooth and quiet. That was my only concern.

 

[Biga]

PC2017 YOSE are sending a new pas sensor so i will wait to try that before cutting any plugs of, but i am going to order the controller and will go with your recommendation of the KT-D12L pas sensor as it is good for a hollowtech crank, i just haven't got round to it yet work and playing in kayaks got in the way. cheers for the information and to the others people on this thread that have contributed to my e bike learning as limited as it is.

 

[PC2017]

YOSE are sending a new pas sensor

Good news then - Yep I love my PAS, the first time you fit it will annoy you but once you find the sweet spot you'll be good to go! If you buy from Aliexpress don't forget to try and apply the discount vouchers if there are any on the page!

 

[quackstar84]

I received my controller yesterday and it took 11 days to get here to the UK.

This one; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-48V22A-Electric-bicycle-standard-sinewave-controller-Light-function-water-tightness-cable-KT-Series-500W-conversion/32857864688.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2c252396UfqsVw

I did ask for an extra pair of pp30 connectors which I got but they didn't include the peice of metal you're meant to soldered onto the wire =/ oh well lol.

It was packaged well.

I'll avoid blowing this one up. Thanks for your help... just need to find a donor bike now =/ lol