Review Woosh Rio MTB Review/Initial Impressions
- Thread starter Volusia25
- Start date
Have you already taken out the old wheel?
If you haven't, then take a few pictures for reference.
The 'C' washer is the anti-rotation washer.
Leave it in place like it is (they are, the other one has the same orientation).
It goes to the inside the frame, with the ridge in the opening of the dropout, so it locks the motor in place.
If you haven't, then take a few pictures for reference.
The 'C' washer is the anti-rotation washer.
Leave it in place like it is (they are, the other one has the same orientation).
It goes to the inside the frame, with the ridge in the opening of the dropout, so it locks the motor in place.
You need to spread the rear triangle (don't worry, it's quite springy) a bit to clear the derailleur.
Once the wheel has snapped in place, it'll spring back.
here are a couple of pictures for you.
Bike is upside down.
Drive side:
Brake side:
Once the wheel has snapped in place, it'll spring back.
here are a couple of pictures for you.
Bike is upside down.
Drive side:
Brake side:
I figured out I could bend the dropouts outwards slightly. Well not bend but open them up with my hands just enough for the wheel to drop in and sit correctly. All done now.
Good news and bad news.
Good news, it powers on and works. Bad news, it maintains 4mph without me even pedalling, on 1 assist or higher, it just keeps going at 4mph, so i'll change the controller next.
Other thing, I noticed since I got the bike the left brake would require more leverage to engage than the right, its now at a point where I'm able to squeeze the lever to the bar and only have it grab about 1cm away from the bar. I've tried removing the caliper and pumping the pistons to close up the gap but they always revert to their normal position. Is there an adjuster to change the brake bite point?
Good news and bad news.
Good news, it powers on and works. Bad news, it maintains 4mph without me even pedalling, on 1 assist or higher, it just keeps going at 4mph, so i'll change the controller next.
Other thing, I noticed since I got the bike the left brake would require more leverage to engage than the right, its now at a point where I'm able to squeeze the lever to the bar and only have it grab about 1cm away from the bar. I've tried removing the caliper and pumping the pistons to close up the gap but they always revert to their normal position. Is there an adjuster to change the brake bite point?
Volusia,
It could well be that the controller or the LCD is the source of the problem.
Brakes:
I'll lend you a bleed kit for that.
You don't need to bleed it but you will need to let the air out, it's call burping.
It'll take 10 minutes to sort out. Instructions are with the kit.
It could well be that the controller or the LCD is the source of the problem.
Brakes:
I'll lend you a bleed kit for that.
You don't need to bleed it but you will need to let the air out, it's call burping.
It'll take 10 minutes to sort out. Instructions are with the kit.
Should I try cable tying the lever pulled overnight first?
By the way just went to turn it on again and it won't work, same as before. It can only be the controller or an internal break in one of the cables. Ill update once the controller is replaced
By the way just went to turn it on again and it won't work, same as before. It can only be the controller or an internal break in one of the cables. Ill update once the controller is replaced
Yes, you can always do that.
It's simpler to do it with the bleed kit.
Undo the top up port, screw in the syringe adapter then attach the syringe.
squeeze the lever a few times to get the air out and replace the air with shimano fluid at the same time.
Close.
So Ive changed the controller and the pedal assist seems to be working properly now except it still maintains 4mph.
Basically I turn the bike on, and I can use push assist just fine. Then when I begin to pedal on assist 1 or higher, it works as normal (including throttle) but it will go down to 4mph and maintain that speed. Holding the brakes in will stop it, but if I let go of the brake it will go back to 4mph.
Any ideas? Running out of things to replace at this point.
Basically I turn the bike on, and I can use push assist just fine. Then when I begin to pedal on assist 1 or higher, it works as normal (including throttle) but it will go down to 4mph and maintain that speed. Holding the brakes in will stop it, but if I let go of the brake it will go back to 4mph.
Any ideas? Running out of things to replace at this point.
Something wrong with the LCD?
Can you find out a way to factory reset the LCD?
Check also that the maximum speed limit works.
I'll ask Jim to call you tomorrow. He can lend you an LCD to check out.
Can you find out a way to factory reset the LCD?
Check also that the maximum speed limit works.
I'll ask Jim to call you tomorrow. He can lend you an LCD to check out.
Ok the last problem was my fault.
When I took the throttle apart the other day, I didnt put the little sensor back where it is supposed to be.
On the end of the three wires there is a small sensor which fits in a small space in the plastic, I left it hanging loose so the controller thought the throttle was slightly on.
Put it back where it is meant to be, I'll use a little bluetack to keep it there as it did have some kind of white chewing gum type stuff on it which I wiped off.
Working fine now i've put it back.
Just to confirm I did rule out the throttle to be the culprit at the start by disconnecting and reconnecting it multiple times which made no difference, so the parts sent were not a waste of time, just an error on my part putting it back together properly. I can conclude that the controller appears to be at fault, i'll update in a few days to check it all over.
By the way a factory reset on the LCD doesn't delete trip or odometer miles thankfully.
Inside the throttle:
When I took the throttle apart the other day, I didnt put the little sensor back where it is supposed to be.
On the end of the three wires there is a small sensor which fits in a small space in the plastic, I left it hanging loose so the controller thought the throttle was slightly on.
Put it back where it is meant to be, I'll use a little bluetack to keep it there as it did have some kind of white chewing gum type stuff on it which I wiped off.
Working fine now i've put it back.
Just to confirm I did rule out the throttle to be the culprit at the start by disconnecting and reconnecting it multiple times which made no difference, so the parts sent were not a waste of time, just an error on my part putting it back together properly. I can conclude that the controller appears to be at fault, i'll update in a few days to check it all over.
By the way a factory reset on the LCD doesn't delete trip or odometer miles thankfully.
Inside the throttle:
Ok so put it all back together, slimed the inner tube on the new tyre and cable tied the rear brake on.
Just one last thing, have I put the controller cover on properly? I swear it used to sit flush against the battery, but it also sits flush against the frame.
That small black piece I found before is actually meant to go somewhere in the middle of the cover (I think), there's a hole in the centre of the cover now, unless it has always been that way and that black piece serves no purpose?
Just one last thing, have I put the controller cover on properly? I swear it used to sit flush against the battery, but it also sits flush against the frame.
That small black piece I found before is actually meant to go somewhere in the middle of the cover (I think), there's a hole in the centre of the cover now, unless it has always been that way and that black piece serves no purpose?
Hi Volusia, I just got back from London. I'm glad you managed to solve the problem and get your bike going again.
Here are a couple of pics of my battery/controller. They look the same as yours to me!
Here are a couple of pics of my battery/controller. They look the same as yours to me!
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Hi Volusia,
Do you feel that your front mudguard is securely in? I only fitted the mudguards last night because the weather has turned decidedly Irish.
The rear mudguard is fine, but the front feels very loose. I was taking the bike out this morning and it simply fell out, I may have knocked it with my knee but I just wanted to get your take.
I tightened the allen key bolt that holds the holder under the yoke as tight as I could but it still feels kinda loose!
Also, my front brake cable is a little short, this may be because I have the handlebars raised up slightly but the cable is now resting on the mudguard and this may be contributing to its looseness!
Do you feel that your front mudguard is securely in? I only fitted the mudguards last night because the weather has turned decidedly Irish.
The rear mudguard is fine, but the front feels very loose. I was taking the bike out this morning and it simply fell out, I may have knocked it with my knee but I just wanted to get your take.
I tightened the allen key bolt that holds the holder under the yoke as tight as I could but it still feels kinda loose!
Also, my front brake cable is a little short, this may be because I have the handlebars raised up slightly but the cable is now resting on the mudguard and this may be contributing to its looseness!
I find it secure enough. I also tightened mine as much as possible, and it has yet to fall off. If I lean the bike against something the mudguard sometimes moves so its crooked but I just pull it back straight. What you could try is taking the mount out and wrapping some electrical tape around the bung making it thicker, then put it back in.
My bike is working correctly now after quite a long ride. Battery was on 2 bars after 40 miles, the new motor seems a little quieter as well. Even though that wasn't the problem (it was the controller).
Ive ordered black silicone sealant to inject around the frame entry holes for the cables.
My bike is working correctly now after quite a long ride. Battery was on 2 bars after 40 miles, the new motor seems a little quieter as well. Even though that wasn't the problem (it was the controller).
Ive ordered black silicone sealant to inject around the frame entry holes for the cables.
I gave up with the supplied front mudguard and mounted one on the forks, there is a screw hole in the back. If a bit short on thread depth it works ok. My motor has a got a bit noisier as its "run-in" slightly disappointing but its not a big deal.
I am concerned about water ingress into the systems of this bike I have added some additional water proofing around the battery but I am wondering about the controller now.
I am concerned about water ingress into the systems of this bike I have added some additional water proofing around the battery but I am wondering about the controller now.
I think my Woosh Zephyr has the same mudguards as yours. After the bolt got snug I was tightening for ages without it biting hard on metal so started to worry I was just compressing plastic and stopped. It's fairly tight without going any further so I'm just gonna leave it. I wonder if too much tightening can damage the plastic...not sure.
The hole in the fork crown where the mudguard's bung is fitted has never been designed for hanging the mudguards, it's just the inside of the fork's steerer tube.
The bung where the front mudguard is clipped on can swish inside the steerer tube. for something better, how about this £15 pair:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-narrow-road-clip-on-mudguard?sku=5360704703
The bung where the front mudguard is clipped on can swish inside the steerer tube. for something better, how about this £15 pair:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-narrow-road-clip-on-mudguard?sku=5360704703
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