Review Woosh Rio MTB Review/Initial Impressions

[Damian.Doherty]

Thank you Damian for letting me know.
Please check the sensitivity of the brake sensors to be on the safe side.
You should be able to pull the lever about 3mm without triggering error 25.

Tony, you were absolutely right to have me check the brake sensitivity. After a quick test ride earlier this evening I was able to determine that the back brake was causing the Error 25.

I could clear it every time by holding in the throttle and turning on the bike but as soon as I touched the back brake the pedal assist would stop working. I could still activate the motor with the throttle however. Then if I turn the bike off and back on Error 25 would be back again.

I followed your advice from above and a half turn anti-clockwise has now cured it.

I'll take the bike for another test ride tomorrow to make sure its sorted!

I have attached a pictures of both brake levers, as you can see I have no lock nut on the sensor wire screw.

These pics were taken before I unscrewed the back brake half a turn, its interesting that the back brake was already screwed out much further than the front!

Anyway....all sorted now!

 

[Woosh]

As I said I dont really want to take that bottom plate off again unless i had some new screws to go in there, they're rounding off. (Cant see a quick disconnect for the throttle)
Instead could I not just disassemble the throttle assembly, clean and spray it with ACF50/WD40?

I have never disassembled a wuxing throttle before, it's usually replaced when it goes wrong.
As for the two screws, they are different. The one at the top left is a self tapper, the one at the middle of the cradle has thread, I think it's a 2.5mm but will have to check. I think I can find you replacement for them.

Can you disconnect the throttle at the handlebar end?

On other models assembled in Shanghai (painted blue gray), we use modular cabling. On this one, assembled in Tianjin, the factory uses long cable for the throttle.

 

[Woosh]

I have attached a pictures of both brake levers, as you can see I have no lock nut on the sensor wire screw.

I think they are M5 size.
I'll send you some locking nuts on Monday.

With the locking nut in place, you don't need to tighten much the locking nuts, so that you still can loosen the locking nut and turn the sensor screws with your fingers in case you don't have an 8mm spanner handy.

 

[Damian.Doherty]

Even without the lock nuts, the screw definitely wasn't loose, it took a fair bit of torque to turn it back half a turn.

I'll put the lock nuts on when they arrive as I know vibration can turn even the tightest of screws.

Thanks again Tony!

 

[Volusia25]

Took the throttle apart (just three screws) and it was bone dry. Sprayed it with ACF 50 along with all the joins in the cables and still nothing, wont do walk assist either. What next?

 

[Woosh]

if I had your bike here, this is how I would test it:

1. pull out the controller
2. unplug the two brake sensors (black/grey 2-pin connectors)
3. Unplug the throttle (red/green/black controller side, red, white, black handlebars side ) 3-pin connector.
4. Slot the battery back in with the plastic cover of the controller compartment still off
5. Switch on the LCD
6. Test PAS
If the motor is working then reconnect the brake sensor one at a time, if the motor is still working, then that would narrow it down to the throttle.
If not, I'll plug in another motor wheel, test. If it works, then fine, if not, I replace the controller. If it still does not work, I'll plug in a new pedal sensor. If it's still not working, I'll plug in a new LCD. That's all the guts of the electrics.

 

[Volusia25]

Did as you said and it just creates more confusion.
I unplugged the throttle, then tried the bike and it worked. On its side anyway, didnt try under load, but motor sounded fine. walk assist and pedal assist was working.
To make sure it wasn't a fluke, I plugged it back in and it was still working. So I unplugged throttle and both brake sensors, tried it and it wont work at all.
Unplugged every plug in there, sprayed with ACF50 and cleaned (dont know why I bothered as there's no sign of water), and double checked everything was connected properly. Now nothing, LCD on as normal but no power or walk assist. I'd guess there's a bad solder in the controller or something

 

[Volusia25]

I give up, I isolated every connection and still nothing. Maybe the heavy rain was coincidence, and the controller or motor just happened to fail at that point. Cant see any water ingress anywhere except maybe in the motor but I cant tell without taking it to bits.
Hopefully it gets sorted soon.

 

[Volusia25]

Having a new motor wheel and controller delivered tomorrow, so can't fault that service.
I am wondering if there is anything I can do myself to the motor to reduce the risk of water ingress. Would it be worth smearing grease around the joining plate seam? Or around the axle/where the cable enters the motor?

 

[Woosh]

you can put some grease in the cable channel to stop the water getting in.
The motor is usually the most robust item on a bike, unfortunately, Hall sensors can die for a number of reasons, most of them are accidental, and nobody can do anything about that.
We can replace the Hall sensors but it's a very fiddly job.
That's why I always prefer motors without sensors.

 

[Volusia25]

Can you visibly tell if a sensor has failed? And could the Rio come with sensorless motors or not

 

[Woosh]

no. they are 3 small transistors buried inside the motor core.
They are usually killed through problems outside the motor.

And could the Rio come with sensorless motors or not

I may change the SWX02 on the Rio to sensorless in the future. Sensored motors are slightly quieter.

 

[Damian.Doherty]

so.....is there any special technique to getting the rubber cover back in the charging point on the battery?

 

[Woosh]

so.....is there any special technique to getting the rubber cover back in the charging point on the battery?

the charging port is not in the middle of the rubber cover!
it easy to mis-align the rubber boot to the well that you see here:

I usually line up the top edge of the rubber boot to the hole before pressing it in:

 

[Volusia25]

I just put a small amount of grease on the cover and push down, pops right in and also protects from moisture

 

[Electric Bob]

I did exactly the same but its a tricky little thing.
Sorry to hear the problems you are having Volusia, it does sound like the initial problem was motor sensor related lets hope the replacement wheel does the trick. I have applied thick silicone grease to the cable inlet on the motor of mine because the seal looked a bit dubious.

 

[Damian.Doherty]

I'm glad I'm not the only one having difficulties with the little bugger!

On a more positive note.....it turns out that my brakes are not supposed to have lock nuts after all.

Jim from Woosh called me on Monday afternoon to ask me to look for a grub screw on the back of the handle. (If you sit in the saddle and look at the handle you'll see it.)

This explains why I found the nut so hard to unscrew half a turn!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

if you're going to use grease, use silicone grease a Vaselene. Normal grease will dissolve the rubber.

 

[Volusia25]

Need a bit of help putting the new wheel on. What orientation should this washer thing be with the ridge on it? And does it go on the outside or the inside of the frame? If I remember correctly its only the large nut and the largest washer which go on the outside of the frame, but I can't seem to get the wheel to fit on. Its as if there are too many washers.

 

[Volusia25]

And how many spacers per side?