Review Woosh Rio MTB Review/Initial Impressions

[Damian.Doherty]

I made a quick video to show what's happening. I've been trying this on and off since about 6.00 pm today! ;(

 

[Woosh]

still getting Err 25

Hello Damian,

It looks like one of the two brake sensors needs to be less sensitive.
Here is how you adjust it:

You need an 8mm spanner for the adjuster and locking nut.
In the picture above, the sensor is less sensitive if the adjuster moves left.

1. take a picture of the sensor setting or write down the current number of turns you see on the adjuster so you can put it back where it was if it's not the right one.

2. undo the locking nut

3. Turn on the LCD so it shows 25.

4. undo the adjuster half a turn at a time, check that the '25' is gone.

If after you undo a couple of turns and error 25 is still showing, do the same with the other

5. Lock the adjuster again when error 25 is gone.

Let us know how you are getting on.

 

[Damian.Doherty]

Hi Woosh, I think I've fixed it. Here's what I did.

I noticed that on the way home earlier the motor wasn't kicking in with the pedals, I had to hit the throttle to start the motor, it would then stay on with the pedals.

So.....I tried holding in the thumb throttle and THEN turning on the bike. This seemed to do the trick, the Error 25 didn't reappear.

While I had a working bike I did a factory reset just in case someone screwed up the settings.

I've turned the bike on and off about 10 times and the Error 25 hasn't come back!!!

 

[Woosh]

Thank you Damian for letting me know.
Please check the sensitivity of the brake sensors to be on the safe side.
You should be able to pull the lever about 3mm without triggering error 25.

 

[Warwick]

Err, shouldn't this have been part of the pre-delivery inspection?

 

[Woosh]

hello warwick,

yes, we check the brakes and adjust them if necessary but in this case, it seems to be linked to programming rather than the setting of the brake sensors. There should be a PDI report with the bike, filled in and signed by the person who does the PDI.
I can't reproduce the effect of activating the throttle while switching on the LCD until I come to the office on Monday.
However, it's useful that Damian thought of factory resetting the LCD.

 

[Woosh]

@damian, 60 psi is about the highest air pressure for those tyres. We inflate them at 45 psi and recommend 55 psi as maximum pressure, just in case your pressure gauge drifts a bit.

 

[Volusia25]

Well the reliability was short lived. Just got caught in a downpour, rode about a mile in it until I found shelter. Turned the bike off until it stopped raining. Turned it on again and the bike made a horrible grinding sound when the motor kicked in, then it went back to normal, then it began cutting out (LCD screen still on, but motor not working) then more intermittent grinding/harsh vibration. Now the motor won't kick in at all, but LCD screen is fine and shows no errors. 20 miles from home. Checked the main connection to the motor (with the 2 arrows) and it was water tight. Battery also water tight. Any ideas?

 

[Woosh]

Volusia, I will ask support to contact you on Monday.
The motor has Hall sensors, it sounds like one of the wires to the Hall sensors may be affected.

 

[Volusia25]

Just got home and on a laptop so can explain a bit better.
As I said, got caught in a heavy downpour and made it under shelter, then turned the bike off. Then it was cutting in and out and vibrating/grinding really loud, but when up to speed it went quiet like it usually is. It cut out again, then worked again and sounded totally smooth from a complete stop to 15mph, then after a few hundred feet started grinding again before cutting out totally.
Left it half an hour while waiting to be picked up, and decided to tilt the bike on its side and try to use the 'walk assist' feature, which worked, it span the back wheel for a couple of seconds before cutting out again, been totally dead since.
Got it in the house to dry out now. Voltage on the battery is 38.9 which is good, considering I had travelled 22 miles and only lost one bar.

I can't really see a way to run any diagnostics because the cable from the controller to motor is male, and the holes in the plug are way too small to fit a multimeter prong inside. How can water even get in the motor? It looks sealed to me. Wasn't even any signs of water at the axle where the wire goes in

 

[Woosh]

the 9-pin motor cable goes into the controller box where you will see a lot of connectors. If the water gets inside the controller box, it can cause all sorts of possible problems.
If you could open the box and check if it's wet inside, we may have a better idea.

 

[Volusia25]

Not sure what to say. Took the cover off and it appears pretty dry in there, and so it should be when you consider the design. The battery blocks any significant amount of water from getting in. This random black piece was found under the cover though. I cant keep removing the cover either because the screws are all starting to round off and it will end up stuck, if you have spares i'd appreciate them, since they all could do with replacing. Not sure why they're self tappers either.
Anyway, now the walk assist works and the motor sounds normal, but thottle and pedal assist doesn't work.

 

[Volusia25]

Spoke too soon. Came back an hour later and even the walk assist doesn't work, weird because I hadn't moved it in that time. I suppose the obvious suspect is the motor in that case. I could take the rear wheel off but I wouldn't be confident to do much else, since the motor looks like it's laced to the wheel

 

[Woosh]

This random black piece was found under the cover though.

I have no idea where that piece of black plastic you found came from. It's not part of the controller.

Anyway, now the walk assist works and the motor sounds normal, but thottle and pedal assist doesn't work.

There is one thing you could check for me: the pedal assist sensor.

If the LCD is on, the pedal assist sensor (PAS) is active. When you turn the cranks (even backward), the LED should blink every time a magnet passes in front of it.
The PAS must work to activate the throttle. If the PAS does not blink, the throttle won't work.

 

[Volusia25]

I have no idea where that piece of black plastic you found came from. It's not part of the controller.



There is one thing you could check for me: the pedal assist sensor.

If the LCD is on, the pedal assist sensor (PAS) is active. When you turn the cranks (even backward), the LED should blink every time a magnet passes in front of it.
The PAS must work to activate the throttle. If the PAS does not blink, the throttle won't work.

Just checked, it's lighting up on every magnet, so no issues there.

 

[Woosh]

Can you check that the speed sensor is still working?

If you want to pull the controller out of its compartment, check the connectors.
The hall sensor connector or one of the sensor wires may be dislodged.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I would have thought that it's a lot more likeiy that water got in the throttle (if you have one) and compromised the 5v. If you have a throttle, unplug it and see if the problem goes away.

 

[Woosh]

Volusia,

d8veh's suggestion is logical.
If you want to investigate, there are 4 cables coming from the handlebars: LCD, left brakes, right brakes and throttle.

 

[Volusia25]

As I said I dont really want to take that bottom plate off again unless i had some new screws to go in there, they're rounding off. (Cant see a quick disconnect for the throttle)
Instead could I not just disassemble the throttle assembly, clean and spray it with ACF50/WD40?

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Can you disconnect the throttle at the handlebar end?