Review Woosh Rio MTB Review/Initial Impressions
- Thread starter Volusia25
- Start date
You sure it won't break anything? I take it the higher you have it the quicker the battery will drain? And If i drop it below 15, the bike will be slower but more range?
Would it void the warranty if I change the power assist levels, and the % they help you. NOT the top speed, but say trying assist 0-7, or changing the % for each 1-5 step. Because I noticed the assist levels dont go up in 20%'s as you would probably expect which I find a bit odd.
A level somewhere between 1 and 2 would give me better range and a bit more of a workout, since level 1 basically does nothing except ease you off a bit from a dead stop, and level 2 is very easy to maintain 14-15mph.
Also, could you check on the demo bike today if you factory reset the LCD, does it wipe the total odometer (not the trip meter) as I like knowing the total miles ive done on the bike, so i can update the thread at 500 then 1000 miles and so on. TO reset hold M and the + button for 2 seconds IIRC
A level somewhere between 1 and 2 would give me better range and a bit more of a workout, since level 1 basically does nothing except ease you off a bit from a dead stop, and level 2 is very easy to maintain 14-15mph.
Also, could you check on the demo bike today if you factory reset the LCD, does it wipe the total odometer (not the trip meter) as I like knowing the total miles ive done on the bike, so i can update the thread at 500 then 1000 miles and so on. TO reset hold M and the + button for 2 seconds IIRC
I'm watching this thread with vested interest.....I'm looking forward to Hatti getting back now too! 
So did some tests today.
I put it to 17 amps, rode half a mile, then changed it back. Literally couldn't tell a difference at all, so figured better put it back stock. Maybe if you derestricted it and went around on assist 5 all the time you might be able to tell. I might try it down 2, to 13Ah to see if that changes anything as far as range goes. What does it even mean, if the battery is 13Ah shouldnt the controller be set to 13 too and not 15? Is the current setting on the LCD just the max current given to the battery?
Anyway battery tests.
Basically I got 52 miles (about 5 of which i did yesterday, so im very sore right now having done 47ish miles today), 52 miles before it wouldn't assist me at all. LCD still showed 1 bar though and didn't flash empty which is odd, maybe it doesn't have that feature will have to check the manual.
For the last 8 or so miles, it would maintain 13-15mph on throttle alone as you can see in this video, where i use throttle alone and assist as well:
Steep inclines it really struggled and took some effort on my part, as this video shows:
So thats basically how it performed for those last 8 miles before finally dying and not helping at all.
I'm going to measure the volts after it has sat for about an hour, then charge and time it again. So I guess this is the best I will get from it, still not as good as it was, but its not too much different. If changing the assistance powers won't void warranty, I might experiment with a 'between assist 1 and 2' power level and see how that affects range.
Edit: 34.1V, putting on charge now
I put it to 17 amps, rode half a mile, then changed it back. Literally couldn't tell a difference at all, so figured better put it back stock. Maybe if you derestricted it and went around on assist 5 all the time you might be able to tell. I might try it down 2, to 13Ah to see if that changes anything as far as range goes. What does it even mean, if the battery is 13Ah shouldnt the controller be set to 13 too and not 15? Is the current setting on the LCD just the max current given to the battery?
Anyway battery tests.
Basically I got 52 miles (about 5 of which i did yesterday, so im very sore right now having done 47ish miles today), 52 miles before it wouldn't assist me at all. LCD still showed 1 bar though and didn't flash empty which is odd, maybe it doesn't have that feature will have to check the manual.
For the last 8 or so miles, it would maintain 13-15mph on throttle alone as you can see in this video, where i use throttle alone and assist as well:
Steep inclines it really struggled and took some effort on my part, as this video shows:
So thats basically how it performed for those last 8 miles before finally dying and not helping at all.
I'm going to measure the volts after it has sat for about an hour, then charge and time it again. So I guess this is the best I will get from it, still not as good as it was, but its not too much different. If changing the assistance powers won't void warranty, I might experiment with a 'between assist 1 and 2' power level and see how that affects range.
Edit: 34.1V, putting on charge now
Last edited:
31.5v is likely the controllers lvc, ,the battery BMS may be higher 33v - 34v.
Your 34.1v is total pack voltage. If one cell groups voltage is lower then the rest, you will not know the lvc it is cutting out at.
Your 34.1v is total pack voltage. If one cell groups voltage is lower then the rest, you will not know the lvc it is cutting out at.
Changing amps will only tell when hill climbing as amps =s torque or on a timed distance as acceleration would be a bit quicker. Though 15a to 17a probably won't be too noticeable, 20/22a would be more noticeable.
The 34.1V that you see is the voltage at rest, when the battery is working, it drops a bit depending on how long and how intense it has been used just before. You have probably seen that when you stop and let the battery rest for 10 minutes, you sometimes get one bar back on the LCD's battery meter. Lithium battery follows Peukert's law too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peukert's_law
When the assist starts cutting out at mile 52, the voltage is nearer to 31.5V than 34V.
It is always difficult to ride on the last 20% of remaining charge, any increase in current may cause the battery to sag to below the low voltage cutout point in the controller. You can still extract a few more miles from 50 by keeping to assist level 1.
Took about 7 hours to charge. When I next do my usual trip, i'm going to put it on 17amp there and back, then when I go again, 13 amp there and back and see if there is any difference to how long it takes and rough battery life.
Not sure if you have the LCD manual on your site Woosh but i've been using this one to learn a bit about the various functions:
http://www.key-display.com/Downloads/User Manual/Users Manual-KD58C-KDS.pdf
Not sure if you have the LCD manual on your site Woosh but i've been using this one to learn a bit about the various functions:
http://www.key-display.com/Downloads/User Manual/Users Manual-KD58C-KDS.pdf
that sounds like a plan.
I am grateful for the info.
PS:
7 hours is about the most a 13AH battery will take from a 2A charger.
Yea I don't plan to run it down that much anymore. I'll usually do it after 40 miles at most. Not sure how much evidence there is that running it as low as I did will harm it long term however. Even after the full charge the battery itself was barely even warm. Mechanically after the 400 or so miles travelled, all i've needed to do is slightly adjust the gear cable for a second time.
no harm to the battery.
You can do so as often as you like. This is what I would do to rebalance the battery.
Is the Cyclescheme really a no no for you guys? Searching online I once saw Hatti was a fan but now it appears she isn't.
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