Help! Voilamart 26” front hub looking for repair

[mikeconnect]

Not soldered for some time so need new kit . Won’t pay local prices so it’ll go quiet for a bit till I get the necessary . Will update next week

 

[Nealh]

A reading of one means infinity and the fets are fine on that test, any reading zero is a failure.
When testing V+ against phase the Red probe is on V+.
When testing V- against phase the Black probe is n V-.
The link describes the action quite clearly.

 

[mikeconnect]

A reading of one means infinity and the fets are fine on that test, any reading zero is a failure.
When testing V+ against phase the Red probe is on V+.
When testing V- against phase the Black probe is n V-.
The link describes the action quite clearly.

Thanks . On to the board next week

 

[WheezyRider]

Thanks . On to the board next week

I'm still not convinced that doing anything to the Hall sensors will suddenly make it all work. My Voilamart controllers and motors will run even if the Hall sensor connector is disconnected. In your case, you get nothing at all happening. Maybe it's a very early controller without dual mode operation?

Can you see the sticker on the controller saying what type it is? Could you post a photo of that?

 

[mikeconnect]

I'm still not convinced that doing anything to the Hall sensors will suddenly make it all work. My Voilamart controllers and motors will run even if the Hall sensor connector is disconnected. In your case, you get nothing at all happening. Maybe it's a very early controller without dual mode operation?

Can you see the sticker on the controller saying what type it is? Could you post a photo of that?

You may be right but bear in mind it stopped working because of a short Which was fixed plus R2 had no reading . This was swiftly followed by that guys soldering which broke a couple of tracks . So he didn’t even see that . So I’ve eliminated cables and mosfets now must eliminate what I’m sure is 2 broken tracks . Solder gear on its wAy to me , I’ll check controller when home

 

[mikeconnect]

You may be right but bear in mind it stopped working because of a short Which was fixed plus R2 had no reading . This was swiftly followed by that guys soldering which broke a couple of tracks . So he didn’t even see that . So I’ve eliminated cables and mosfets now must eliminate what I’m sure is 2 broken tracks . Solder gear on its wAy to me , I’ll check controller when home

It’s interesting that this Controller says for lithium . I’m not sure but I’ve assumed battery is original nimh and certainly the charger is the original which is for nimh. But whatever it worked and charged ok before dropout

 

[WheezyRider]

It’s interesting that this Controller says for lithium . I’m not sure but I’ve assumed battery is original nimh and certainly the charger is the original which is for nimh. But whatever it worked and charged ok before dropout View attachment 37623View attachment 37623

It says dual mode, so it should be able run the motor without the Hall sensors being attached. Might be slightly noisy, but it should work. Have you tried running the motor without the Hall sensor connector attached?

 

[vfr400]

The controller doesn't care what sort of battery you have. The cut off voltages are the same.

That can't be the original controller anyway because the current is too high. You need to change it to one with no more than 22 amps, otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor. 15 amps is normal, 18 if you need a bit more power, and 22 is the limit.

 

[mikeconnect]

It says dual mode, so it should be able run the motor without the Hall sensors being attached. Might be slightly noisy, but it should work. Have you tried running the motor without the Hall sensor connector attached?

No cos I’m sure the 2 PCB tracks nearby need repair. So where is the hall sensor connector

 

[WheezyRider]

The controller doesn't care what sort of battery you have. The cut off voltages are the same.

That can't be the original controller anyway because the current is too high. You need to change it to one with no more than 22 amps, otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor. 15 amps is normal, 18 if you need a bit more power, and 22 is the limit.

Mine say that too, it's just the peak current of 15 Amps, these are not 30A controllers

I think the OP said it was retro fitted with a Voilamart controller and motor.

 

[mikeconnect]

The controller doesn't care what sort of battery you have. The cut off voltages are the same.

That can't be the original controller anyway because the current is too high. You need to change it to one with no more than 22 amps, otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor. 15 amps is normal, 18 if you need a bit more power, and 22 is the limit.

But it’s an upgraded voilamart front wheel Not the original giant so I assume whoever upgraded it fitted this controller too

 

[mikeconnect]

But it’s an upgraded voilamart front wheel Not the original giant so I assume whoever upgraded it fitted this controller too

The controller is exact same one currently supplied with voilamart kits on eBay so not changing that

 

[mikeconnect]

The controller doesn't care what sort of battery you have. The cut off voltages are the same.

That can't be the original controller anyway because the current is too high. You need to change it to one with no more than 22 amps, otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor. 15 amps is normal, 18 if you need a bit more power, and 22 is the limit.

The controller is exact same one currently supplied with voilamart kits on eBay so not changing that

 

[mikeconnect]

It says dual mode, so it should be able run the motor without the Hall sensors being attached. Might be slightly noisy, but it should work. Have you tried running the motor without the Hall sensor connector attached?

Where’s the hall sensor connector plz

 

[WheezyRider]

I showed you in post #103 of this thread.

 

[mikeconnect]

Just thought I’d status update
1. Bike cables and mosfets tested as ok .
2. waiting for solder kit to arrive to try and repair couple of broken tracks
3 when that’s done I’ll check motor without hall sensors as im advised it should work without
ive got ss41s ready
4. Other thread about battery ? that’s on hold . I’m using battery from bike 1 on bike 2 which is ok for my needs . Will only buy new battery if bike 1 works Eventually
Thanks all for help so far

 

[mikeconnect]

I showed you in post #103 of this thread.

Thanks so can I be sure . The white block disconnect all wires or only some ?

 

[WheezyRider]

Thanks so can I be sure . The white block disconnect all wires or only some ?

Disconnect all. Should be 5 wires in your case (no speed limit wire), but make sure power is off when you do so.

 

[mikeconnect]

Disconnect all. Should be 5 wires in your case (no speed limit wire), but make sure power is off when you do so.

Thanks wheezy . While you’re there can I ask you ? My second bike I just got pedal assist only , motor kicks Immediately in with Any pedal pressure even When stationery . Is that ok? Thought it might damage motor if stationery
Other bike you pedal quite a bit before it kicks in

 

[WheezyRider]

Thanks wheezy . While you’re there can I ask you ? My second bike I just got pedal assist only , motor kicks Immediately in with Any pedal pressure even When stationery . Is that ok? Thought it might damage motor if stationery
Other bike you pedal quite a bit before it kicks in

It's unlikely to damage the motor unless the bike can't move and yet the controller sends full power to the motor in a stalled condition for a significant length of time. Moving off from a standstill is not a problem.

If you disconnect the PAS from the Voilamart controller, it will run entirely from the throttle as a twist and go, so it will move off from a standstill without turning the pedals.