To save going off topic in the Bank Holiday thread, I figured it best to start a new thread topic about the subject. Please feel free to add your own opinion in respect of the subject.
Chris134206 has asked the following question.
"It does help stop nipping punctures. At low pressures you can nip tube between between rim and tyre when you hit rocks.
Also at very low pressures tyre can move slightly under braking, with a tube in it rips valve stem.
Tubeless for mtb is the way to go , and I will on mine...eventually.
Just as an asside ....trials bikes run as low as 5 psi in tyres...they have security bolts holding tyre to rim to prevent tyre rotation.
Enduro lads didn't care about punctures , inevitable...filled tyre with " mousses" ! Soft round balls..absolute nightmare to fit tyre...was for me any how...
Not sure of spelling of mousses...?? Might not even be a word ! But they called them that.
I,d guess ( not sure in this one) that self sealing stuff in tyres/tubes works better on tyres than tubes ( it has more thickness to work on) With a tube leaking air comes out at valve hole , even if gunk stuff got to tyre. I know in early days of self sealing tyres it had to be on tyres( ie tubeless) but they were crap, folk used to take brand new cars to garages and trade in self sealing tyres for leaky ones !!!")
First off Chris, you might well find that the OE tubes are lightweight ones, which are very thin, and don't take much to puncture.
You have several options with tubes.
I still don't rely on tubeless as being invincible though, and always carry both a spare tube, and a tubeless repair kit
Also very importantly. Don't go rushing out to buy a kit before first checking that your wheel/tyre set is tubeless compatible.
I have been running a tubeless set up for the last couple of years, and through preference, don't want to go back to a tube set up.
My initial findings using Stans No Tubes, was a dismal failure, and in my case the product just balled up inside the tyre, and had zero effect when needed just a few months later. Others have had no issues though.
My own preferred product to use, is one called Caffélatex. It seems to do exactly as described, and I now wouldn't use any other product. That is just my opinion though.
http://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/products/caffelatex-family/caffelatex-sealant/
To add to what Flud has already said, another advantage of going tubeless is that the sealant will seal a far greater size of hole than say a slime tube, before failing. When riding on the South Downs, I have had several quite large cuts from flint, which after rotating the wheel and applying finger pressure, have sealed back up, and not been a problem since.
The only downside that I have found, is when the time comes to swap tyres around and you then have sealant to remove and clean up from the bead and wheel rim.
With any sealant, you will still need to occasionally add new sealant as per manufacturers recommendations.
Also in respect of removing tyres, this is a product that I wouldn't be without for tyre removal. http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/bike-parts-c8/tubeless-products-c27/proform-tyre-tool-p774 Bikegoo also sell Caffélatex, and tubeless repair kits.
I wouldn't ride without taking either item.
Chris134206 has asked the following question.
And the following is Fluds excellent response to Leighpings question about advantages of going tubeless over running slime tubes, that he asked within the same Bank Holiday thread..How good are the slime tubes? I've had my Haibike 2 weeks, been out trailing 5 times and got 2 punctures so far!
"It does help stop nipping punctures. At low pressures you can nip tube between between rim and tyre when you hit rocks.
Also at very low pressures tyre can move slightly under braking, with a tube in it rips valve stem.
Tubeless for mtb is the way to go , and I will on mine...eventually.
Just as an asside ....trials bikes run as low as 5 psi in tyres...they have security bolts holding tyre to rim to prevent tyre rotation.
Enduro lads didn't care about punctures , inevitable...filled tyre with " mousses" ! Soft round balls..absolute nightmare to fit tyre...was for me any how...
Not sure of spelling of mousses...?? Might not even be a word ! But they called them that.
I,d guess ( not sure in this one) that self sealing stuff in tyres/tubes works better on tyres than tubes ( it has more thickness to work on) With a tube leaking air comes out at valve hole , even if gunk stuff got to tyre. I know in early days of self sealing tyres it had to be on tyres( ie tubeless) but they were crap, folk used to take brand new cars to garages and trade in self sealing tyres for leaky ones !!!")
First off Chris, you might well find that the OE tubes are lightweight ones, which are very thin, and don't take much to puncture.
You have several options with tubes.
- You can if you wish change these to a tougher tube and just run those.
- Switch to tougher tubes and fill them with a slime mix.
- Buy Slime tubes
I still don't rely on tubeless as being invincible though, and always carry both a spare tube, and a tubeless repair kit
Also very importantly. Don't go rushing out to buy a kit before first checking that your wheel/tyre set is tubeless compatible.
I have been running a tubeless set up for the last couple of years, and through preference, don't want to go back to a tube set up.
My initial findings using Stans No Tubes, was a dismal failure, and in my case the product just balled up inside the tyre, and had zero effect when needed just a few months later. Others have had no issues though.
My own preferred product to use, is one called Caffélatex. It seems to do exactly as described, and I now wouldn't use any other product. That is just my opinion though.
http://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/products/caffelatex-family/caffelatex-sealant/
To add to what Flud has already said, another advantage of going tubeless is that the sealant will seal a far greater size of hole than say a slime tube, before failing. When riding on the South Downs, I have had several quite large cuts from flint, which after rotating the wheel and applying finger pressure, have sealed back up, and not been a problem since.
The only downside that I have found, is when the time comes to swap tyres around and you then have sealant to remove and clean up from the bead and wheel rim.
With any sealant, you will still need to occasionally add new sealant as per manufacturers recommendations.
Also in respect of removing tyres, this is a product that I wouldn't be without for tyre removal. http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/bike-parts-c8/tubeless-products-c27/proform-tyre-tool-p774 Bikegoo also sell Caffélatex, and tubeless repair kits.
I wouldn't ride without taking either item.
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