To go tubeless or not to go tubeless.
- Thread starter EddiePJ
- Start date
Iast night i was 9 miles from home and my rear tyre received a flint puncture ripping a 4mm hole in tyre. Stans liquid poured out to no avail. stupidly my wife was at work, i had no tube and no way to repair. decided to mainly walk , but the odd occasion rode bike putting most weight on front tyre. not a happy bunny. i have decided to change tyres from smart sam plus to marathon plus and go back to inner tubes. sometimes the stans seal, sometimes not. the problem you then have is a messy inner tube insert clearing out the stans or a external plug repair which is ok but temp once you have a decent rip in tyre.
i figured best puncture tyre i could by with inner tubes. if get puncture no mess and easy fix i.e. park or slime patch on tube.
should say i've been using stans seal for years with mixed results, but a fair bit of mess when changing tyre etc.
i figured best puncture tyre i could by with inner tubes. if get puncture no mess and easy fix i.e. park or slime patch on tube.
should say i've been using stans seal for years with mixed results, but a fair bit of mess when changing tyre etc.
And I still wouldn't have got anywhere near his time.
cant get lower psi than that
£5.99 for a Weldtite tubeless repair kit as shown in the very first post, and a pump/C02 canister would have seen the tyre repaired seconds.
It is even listed in last months Singletrack magazine as highly recommended and must have in your carry kit.
https://www.evanscycles.com/weldtite-tubeless-patch-kit-00103371
I'd never ride anywhere without the above and also a spare tube. Neither take up any room.
.
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When going tubeless, sometimes it pays to carry a crude Auto tire plug kit.
When I am resigned to walking, I head for a convinence store where there is a compressor, Fix-A-Flat in a can and maybe the fore mentioned plug kit.
When I am resigned to walking, I head for a convinence store where there is a compressor, Fix-A-Flat in a can and maybe the fore mentioned plug kit.
Had another try late afternoon and had a little more success. I'm swapping over the Q128C and the Bafang CST, so after relacing and trueing the bafang rim I rim taped up. I layer of the Caffelatex tape was no where near enough for my rims and a spare Nobby I'm using for dry practice, I added one layer of Gorilla Handy tape and the valve and still not enough so a 2nd wrap of Gorilla was used. The tyre then inflated with my track pump to 25psi and then deflated after 30 secs, the old Nobby had 3 or 4 thorne holes leaking air. Hopefully later tomorrow I will fit the brand new tyre to see how long it stays inflated before adding the sauce.
Once I get success with this one I can then try the cyclocross tyre on my 700c.
Once I get success with this one I can then try the cyclocross tyre on my 700c.
Dennis or anyone else who has/uses an Airshot, does this work with Schrader valves as well or is it a trick pony only.
I just had a look on the Airshot website, they now sell an adaptor for Schrader valves.
I have only ever used it with presta valves, but would still be the same.
Removing the valve core is the way to go, this gives a fast rush of pressure to seat the tyre.
If the tyre proves difficult to seat, then put an inner tube in the wheel / tyre.
Pump up to the maximum tyre pressure and leave for at least two hours.
Deflate the inner tube, just break the bead on one side of the tyre to remove the inner tube.
Insert the tubeless schrader valve, put the tyre back on.
Reinflate using the Airshot at about 150 psi.
Tyre will inflate and seat.
Quickly take the Airshot off the valve, and quickly install the valve core.
Then pump up again to the tyre max pressure.
Leave the tyre like this for about an hour.
Deflate , remove valve core and add the tubeless solution e.g. Stans.
Reinflate to a high pressure and swish the fluid around , plenty of wheel shaking videos online.
Leave at a high pressure for about an hour.
Before riding lower pressure to your normal riding pressure.
I have only ever used it with presta valves, but would still be the same.
Removing the valve core is the way to go, this gives a fast rush of pressure to seat the tyre.
If the tyre proves difficult to seat, then put an inner tube in the wheel / tyre.
Pump up to the maximum tyre pressure and leave for at least two hours.
Deflate the inner tube, just break the bead on one side of the tyre to remove the inner tube.
Insert the tubeless schrader valve, put the tyre back on.
Reinflate using the Airshot at about 150 psi.
Tyre will inflate and seat.
Quickly take the Airshot off the valve, and quickly install the valve core.
Then pump up again to the tyre max pressure.
Leave the tyre like this for about an hour.
Deflate , remove valve core and add the tubeless solution e.g. Stans.
Reinflate to a high pressure and swish the fluid around , plenty of wheel shaking videos online.
Leave at a high pressure for about an hour.
Before riding lower pressure to your normal riding pressure.
I'm almost at my wits end trying to go TL, even with a TL rim and tyre can't get this s**t to set up. Can get the tyre to pop on but when I remove tube just can't get the one bead to seat, my track pump is not able to produce enough volume.
Ok, you can get thetyre to seat using the inner tube, yes.
Then carefully remove the tube and insert the tubeless valve, yes.
The tyre then needs to be put back on the rim, I know, obvious etc.
The next stage is key. You need a high pressure and volume of air to seat the tyre.
Airshot is very good for this, compressor at the petrol station is another option.
I have never been able to get the tyre to seat with a track pump though. Not enough volume or pressure produced from a track pump.
Then carefully remove the tube and insert the tubeless valve, yes.
The tyre then needs to be put back on the rim, I know, obvious etc.
The next stage is key. You need a high pressure and volume of air to seat the tyre.
Airshot is very good for this, compressor at the petrol station is another option.
I have never been able to get the tyre to seat with a track pump though. Not enough volume or pressure produced from a track pump.
Warm the tyres up first.. I have had good results with co2 capsules, you may need a couple of tries. Once you have used the capsule the air and liquid will escape from the side. So hold the wheel horizontal and swill the fluid round the wheel then turn it over and swill round the other side. It should seal, top up the pressure with your pump and then swill a bit more.. Job done! If you want to check 100% then apply a soapy solution and look for bubbles.
Thanks Dennis, yep need the air volume to reseat in seated side. The ps forecourt is to much of a faff.
Co2 canisters are your friend then.
This will work.
I prefer to put the sealant in after the tyre has seated though. If you put the sealant in before the tyre is seated, then the pressure from a co2 canister or Airshot can lead to you being coated in the sealant.....
This will work.
I prefer to put the sealant in after the tyre has seated though. If you put the sealant in before the tyre is seated, then the pressure from a co2 canister or Airshot can lead to you being coated in the sealant.....
My preference is to add sealant through the valve once I'm sure the tyre has seated. If I had attempted to use sealant before hand I wold have wasted a lot of money.
For some reason im scared of using tubeless tyres. Maybe if you know what you are doing it should be fine using that type.
MS.
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