To go tubeless or not to go tubeless.

To save going off topic in the Bank Holiday thread, I figured it best to start a new thread topic about the subject. Please feel free to add your own opinion in respect of the subject.

 

Chris134206 has asked the following question.

 

How good are the slime tubes? I've had my Haibike 2 weeks, been out trailing 5 times and got 2 punctures so far!

 

And the following is Fluds excellent response to Leighpings question about advantages of going tubeless over running slime tubes, that he asked within the same Bank Holiday thread..

 

"It does help stop nipping punctures. At low pressures you can nip tube between between rim and tyre when you hit rocks.

Also at very low pressures tyre can move slightly under braking, with a tube in it rips valve stem.

 

Tubeless for mtb is the way to go , and I will on mine...eventually.

 

Just as an asside ....trials bikes run as low as 5 psi in tyres...they have security bolts holding tyre to rim to prevent tyre rotation.

Enduro lads didn't care about punctures , inevitable...filled tyre with " mousses" ! Soft round balls..absolute nightmare to fit tyre...was for me any how...

Not sure of spelling of mousses...?? Might not even be a word ! But they called them that.

 

I,d guess ( not sure in this one) that self sealing stuff in tyres/tubes works better on tyres than tubes ( it has more thickness to work on) With a tube leaking air comes out at valve hole , even if gunk stuff got to tyre. I know in early days of self sealing tyres it had to be on tyres( ie tubeless) but they were crap, folk used to take brand new cars to garages and trade in self sealing tyres for leaky ones !!!")

First off Chris, you might well find that the OE tubes are lightweight ones, which are very thin, and don't take much to puncture.

 

You have several options with tubes.

 

• You can if you wish change these to a tougher tube and just run those.
  
• Switch to tougher tubes and fill them with a slime mix.
  
• Buy Slime tubes
  

The above might well be enough to suit your requirements, but like Flud, switching to to tubeless is in my opinion the way to go.

 

I still don't rely on tubeless as being invincible though, and always carry both a spare tube, and a tubeless repair kit

 

Also very importantly. Don't go rushing out to buy a kit before first checking that your wheel/tyre set is tubeless compatible.

 

I have been running a tubeless set up for the last couple of years, and through preference, don't want to go back to a tube set up.

 

My initial findings using Stans No Tubes, was a dismal failure, and in my case the product just balled up inside the tyre, and had zero effect when needed just a few months later. Others have had no issues though.

 

My own preferred product to use, is one called Caffélatex. It seems to do exactly as described, and I now wouldn't use any other product. That is just my opinion though.

 

http://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/products/caffelatex-family/caffelatex-sealant/

 

 

http://s32.postimg.org/7imkde8px/Caffelatex1000ml_0133.jpg

 

 

To add to what Flud has already said, another advantage of going tubeless is that the sealant will seal a far greater size of hole than say a slime tube, before failing. When riding on the South Downs, I have had several quite large cuts from flint, which after rotating the wheel and applying finger pressure, have sealed back up, and not been a problem since.

 

The only downside that I have found, is when the time comes to swap tyres around and you then have sealant to remove and clean up from the bead and wheel rim.

 

With any sealant, you will still need to occasionally add new sealant as per manufacturers recommendations.

 

Also in respect of removing tyres, this is a product that I wouldn't be without for tyre removal. http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/bike-parts-c8/tubeless-products-c27/proform-tyre-tool-p774 Bikegoo also sell Caffélatex, and tubeless repair kits.

 

I wouldn't ride without taking either item.

 

http://s32.postimg.org/pwhueyd2d/tyrerepairkit_copy.jpg

Edited May 4, 201610 yr by EddiePJ

I have a compromise, I'm tubeless at the front and tubed at the rear.

 

Why? I had a front puncture, it was easier changing the valve than repairing a tube

 

I must get another valve just in case. They only supplied the one.

Thanks for the response. It makes sense that the original tubes are thin, so I'll replace them as I get punctures and keep them as spares. Also look into tubeless via research, as I don't have a clue atm

you can get tubeless kits if the rims are not tubeless ready here

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tubeless-kits?f=2258

 

there is also a pro core kit so have 2 chambers for super low psi but its 150 quid so not cheap and adds 200g to each wheel.

http://www.schwalbe.com/gb/schwalbe-procore.html

I used to get guaranteed punctures, some times front and rear together at what I call bush trimming time. Went tubeless (stans) well over a year ago. Not a single puncture in 1000's of off-road miles. Add a bit more sealant every few months through the valve and its as simple as that. I always carry a tube and puncture kit but remains as new. A bike that doesn't suffer punctures, how great is that!

How good are the slime tubes? I've had my Haibike 2 weeks, been out trailing 5 times and got 2 punctures so far!

 

Yes, most regular punctures will seal themselves. I had 5 punctures over a few days last year, whilst out scootering with my dog. So I swapped the regular inner tubes to slime tubes. You can get them online or at halfrauds. A few days later, another puncture! Only this time I caught it on film.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvO0BBhGL8U

 

Slime Tire sealant instantly and repeatedly repairs tread area punctures up to 1/4″ in diameter using Fibro-Seal® Technology. Seals multiple punctures repeatedly up to 2 years

 

It's a great product.

on my road bike I fitted Slime inner tubes, one lasted 2 miles before went completely flat after picking up a thin nail.

 

I then tried Halfords own brand slime, which is orange, in standard tubes, and never had an issue, my e bike has Halfords own brand slime in the tubes and it's gone well so far

When it works it saves a lot of time.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUMdKAlKfUI

After having run tubeless on the front and latex on the rear for two years I have been on normal tubes on my new bike until today. Third puncture in 3 weeks was enough for me. This bike came with Mavic tyres and wheels and they seem to be falling apart; they have more wear in 400 miles than my Shwalbe Hans Dampf did after 2000 miles. Normally I use brand new tyres to go tubeless as the casing can have loads of holes in them from thorns but I sloshed in 120ml of Stans, threw a valve on the rim, popped the tyre on and pumped up. Total exercise less than 7 minutes and back to tubeless.

 

I always keep a small pair of needlepoint pliers in my backpack as if I cannot get a thorn out sometimes the Stans will not seal.

 

By the way Eddie; did you check what the power was of your charger. My 500wh battery seems to take forever to charge from flat.

Hi Lumos, all three of my chargers state an output of 36V 4A

I run ours on High Rollers setup tubeless with Stans (refreshed every 4 months to stop it setting in the tyre and balling), but like Eddie there's always a spare tyre, tube and repair kit in the bag as you just don't know when the tyre will shred...mouses are great in my Honda CR500, but a pain to fit and they unbalance the wheel dangerously at speed!

I run ours on High Rollers setup tubeless with Stans (refreshed every 4 months to stop it setting in the tyre and balling), but like Eddie there's always a spare tyre, tube and repair kit in the bag as you just don't know when the tyre will shred...mouses are great in my Honda CR500, but a pain to fit and they unbalance the wheel dangerously at speed!

Does it look anything like this one?

No, mines an earlier 1991 steely and set up for enduro (used to race in the Euro Championship)...beautiful SM Izzy, is that an AF??

Unfortunately it's not mine although I really wish it was! Mine is here then we better get back on topic!

Oh yeah...pedelec forum...oops...clean, tidy bike there chap...I might venture to start a thread on what motorbikes peeps have got as there seems to be a few on here, although I may get shot down as they're not limited to 15.5mph/250W lol

Oh yeah...pedelec forum...oops...clean, tidy bike there chap...I might venture to start a thread on what motorbikes peeps have got as there seems to be a few on here, although I may get shot down as they're not limited to 15.5mph/250W lol

WHAT YOUR running a dongled bike.

Call the Spanish Inquisition.

Herratic , devil worshiper, child of satan.

 

 

 

 

Ps Izzi,s pic did look nice

Hi Lumos, all three of my chargers state an output of 36V 4A

Yep, all my four the same. Can't be long for the 5A to appear.

WHAT YOUR running a dongled bike.

Call the Spanish Inquisition.

Herratic , devil worshiper, child of satan.

 

a dongle only lifts the speed limit. with the programme cable a bafang mid drive is even worse law wise because you can also up the amps and everything else

i need a 1000w bafang for my next bike

I prefer my 250W bosch bikes over my 750w Bafang mid drive. I only take the Bafang when my Haibike is broken. Not ridden the 1000W but the power is not the issue.

it is as id want to put 90a in to it from a 3kw batt all the bosch motors are 350w software restricted to 250w

back on topic,

you can also get ust tyres and rims and you do not need to use any sealant in these systems as the bead locks in to the rims so no need for it, but you can add it if you want.

http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/sram-mtb-rear-wheel-rail-50-ust-650b-qr-12x142-162331?currency=3&delivery_country=190&gclid=Cj0KEQjwnIm7BRDSs42KxLS8-6YBEiQAfDWP6H1hKEEkQnmBj6q5TZk1O7v-G7EclxmizSvfg_HM5_YaAmdf8P8HAQ

 

more here on ust.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-UST-Rims-Tires-2013.html

Nice one SW, thanks for sharing that.

 

I finally got around yesterday to fitting the Hutchinsons yesterday.

 

Having not previously fitting rim tape before, I looked at YT for clips, and people seemingly either use a wheel truing device, or held the wheel between there legs whilst applying the tape.

 

My method, was to simply remove the old tyre and tube, clean the rim thoroughly with isopropanol, rub the inside of the rim with wet and dry, clean again with isopropanol, then re fit the wheel to the bike before putting the tape on. No hassle and very easy. I also overlapped the tape by approx 150mm, starting at the valve hole.

 

As expected, the Hutchinson tyres inflated first time, with no leaking.

 

 

I realise that you might perhaps only require one of these, but at £1.89 for ten adapters that potentially make tubeless tyre inflation quicker and easier, I was happy to pay the money and an just give the remaining adapters away to mates. Delivery also only took one week.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322017607679?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT (I see that the price has now jumped up a whole 10p)

 

 

The above are less complicated than my current three piece set up.

thats what i use and a 3.99 foot pump from aldi, not the best for the job but got the tyres on with it just.

I'm lucky in that I have a compressor, so it only takes seconds for the reassuring pop of the tyre seating.