Think i might need talking down..
- Thread starter thelarkbox
- Start date
This has advanced features & I quote verbatim
"Standby persistent Capacity upgrade & endurance growth"
I assume it means you can take it to bits. You may not get it back function but hey...
@PC2017 the first link probably has the same 'problem' as mine that @Saracen pointed out , the size is such that the indicators are onl;y an inch or 2 apart.
Not an issue with the 2nd set tho.. And i did consider the buy 2 flip one idea but my limited experience with basic rf coms is they dont all use the same codes, so .. Also the model i have has quite an oblique pcb, its impossible to trace tracks and the indicator leds appear to be sat on thier connections i cant even probe with a meter, and scratching reveals an aluminium layer ground/heat sink?
while i could sniff the codes used and use the bridge to echo the 2nd commsnd code to flash on reciept of the first easily, again experience with this tech tells me that this could easily introduce a split second but noticable lag so both would fire out of sync and what with the accompanying BUZZ doing a double echo , well it would wind me up tighter than a very tight thing that has been wound up very tightly. So Nope.
@guerney wled is the next stop if tasmota's neopixel handling or my comprehension of tasmotas neopixel handling fails to work, but rather than add a further soc to run it, lets exhaust that first. Now when it comes to Flashy displays wled is indeed the king of the hill..
just to give you an ideas of how rusty i am Tasmota v6 is running in my RF-bridge atm current release is V 13.
Among the new features is a scripting language interpreter!! So ive been sidetracked into installing the VS ide and recompiling the sources to include the optional scripting libs.. (99% use cases its a simpler case of downloading the pre-compiled binary files.. ) I kicked off the visual studio download and called it a night..
Not an issue with the 2nd set tho.. And i did consider the buy 2 flip one idea but my limited experience with basic rf coms is they dont all use the same codes, so .. Also the model i have has quite an oblique pcb, its impossible to trace tracks and the indicator leds appear to be sat on thier connections i cant even probe with a meter, and scratching reveals an aluminium layer ground/heat sink?
while i could sniff the codes used and use the bridge to echo the 2nd commsnd code to flash on reciept of the first easily, again experience with this tech tells me that this could easily introduce a split second but noticable lag so both would fire out of sync and what with the accompanying BUZZ doing a double echo , well it would wind me up tighter than a very tight thing that has been wound up very tightly. So Nope.
@guerney wled is the next stop if tasmota's neopixel handling or my comprehension of tasmotas neopixel handling fails to work, but rather than add a further soc to run it, lets exhaust that first. Now when it comes to Flashy displays wled is indeed the king of the hill..
just to give you an ideas of how rusty i am Tasmota v6 is running in my RF-bridge atm current release is V 13.
Among the new features is a scripting language interpreter!! So ive been sidetracked into installing the VS ide and recompiling the sources to include the optional scripting libs.. (99% use cases its a simpler case of downloading the pre-compiled binary files.. ) I kicked off the visual studio download and called it a night..
Overdue update, I have been busy and been visiting a few select rabbit warrens exploring many holes..
I have found a dedicated 24-72v 12v 10a 5v 2a ebike dc/dc psu for a tenner
. see below.
ws2812 leds are a bad selection, i have decided to spend a further £20 on 10m of led neon rope red 5m orange 5m) I can keep the ws2812's for disco lights too.. I suspect the red led rope might be orange and the orange may be more goldish? only delivery will tell.
non optimal testing of the handlebar transmitter, my test receiver/decoder is the other side of the house, reveals its operation in that the flashing is generated at the transmitter by repeating transmission of the on code regularly. however my detector/decoder picks up the fist signal but rarely catches repetitions, and even the paired light unit starts missing flashes quite quickly.. so i could end up replacing everything from the original package
And i have also ordered a cheap tunable led flasher relay for motorcycles so i can just employ basic relay switching for indicator control and forget about sycing the front and rear flashing in case i cant rely on receiving every flash command.
I have found a dedicated 24-72v 12v 10a 5v 2a ebike dc/dc psu for a tenner
. see below.ws2812 leds are a bad selection, i have decided to spend a further £20 on 10m of led neon rope red 5m orange 5m) I can keep the ws2812's for disco lights too.. I suspect the red led rope might be orange and the orange may be more goldish? only delivery will tell.
non optimal testing of the handlebar transmitter, my test receiver/decoder is the other side of the house, reveals its operation in that the flashing is generated at the transmitter by repeating transmission of the on code regularly. however my detector/decoder picks up the fist signal but rarely catches repetitions, and even the paired light unit starts missing flashes quite quickly.. so i could end up replacing everything from the original package
And i have also ordered a cheap tunable led flasher relay for motorcycles so i can just employ basic relay switching for indicator control and forget about sycing the front and rear flashing in case i cant rely on receiving every flash command.
Sounds like a good idea @AGS , this end a couple of things have arrived from my great ebay buy everything session, the amber and red neon led strips, as well as 4 x el cheapo motorcycle indicators that require No flasser unit, they use a led meter effect just need 10-14v..
So I have mounted the m/c indicators on bars to hang off my front and rear boxes, and cut and wired lengths of orange neon led to sit under the box lips left and right front and rear. The neon leds will be flashed by a seperate 12v flasher unit with a 'tunning' knoob, so with luck i may get them in sync with the m/c indicators..
What im not happy about is my initial plan to coil the red led for a rear light/brakelight, (6-8v power for light use 12v power for brake light.. the 5m length @6v will draw 30w and as a brake light 60w.. Thats a lot.
IM going to try and make a wider spiral but if that fails to impress i may have to cut and wire shorter lengths as bars or lines forming a star? any idea's , design isnt my thing beyond function as a rule.
What do you guys use for wire, automotive 12v red and black wires at £5 a meter made me spit out my tea so am planning on buying a few meters of black sheathed 0.5mmsq 2 core lighting flex.
EDIT** btw this is all additional lighting beyond the dynamo powered front and rear lights that are on 100% of the time i am ridding..
So I have mounted the m/c indicators on bars to hang off my front and rear boxes, and cut and wired lengths of orange neon led to sit under the box lips left and right front and rear. The neon leds will be flashed by a seperate 12v flasher unit with a 'tunning' knoob, so with luck i may get them in sync with the m/c indicators..
What im not happy about is my initial plan to coil the red led for a rear light/brakelight, (6-8v power for light use 12v power for brake light.. the 5m length @6v will draw 30w and as a brake light 60w.. Thats a lot.
IM going to try and make a wider spiral but if that fails to impress i may have to cut and wire shorter lengths as bars or lines forming a star? any idea's , design isnt my thing beyond function as a rule.
What do you guys use for wire, automotive 12v red and black wires at £5 a meter made me spit out my tea so am planning on buying a few meters of black sheathed 0.5mmsq 2 core lighting flex.
EDIT** btw this is all additional lighting beyond the dynamo powered front and rear lights that are on 100% of the time i am ridding..
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A square means "Stop" on my Sony Walkman.
I use cheap 2 core for my front headlights, rated 3A I think. No problems so far.
You can sync your additional orange lights by taking a wire from the main flashers to toggle a MOSFET to turn power on and off to the extra ones.
If the power 'flashed' yeah, but it doesn't, think uv meter ranging from 0 to 100 to 0 to 100 etc when supplied with 12v, knight rider or zylon eye style led.. am i showing my age??
@ less than £7 for 4x it had to be worth a punt..
Very good point @guerney, if anything a square represents a universal stop. so DOH! of course the brake light should reflect as much info as possible.. square is the target..
At that price you could double them up? Hot glue them together as pairs? I tend to worry things aren't bright enough to be noticed by drivers in bright daylight.
MIght have been silicone sleeved zero oxygen speaker wire for all i know i just closed the ad page on instinct
iirc 'automotive 12v cable' or similar was my ebay search... it was one of the first listed..
Anyway inspiration has struck, i will buy a meter or so of tiny 10mm x 10mm square trunking and slip 2x lengths of the 'neon rope' in side by side for stability and guidance rather than the zip ties so far used alone. ..That will give me straight light bars to play with, some soldering required but its a plan and i can paint the trunking black. with a set square i can have a perfectly square STOP indicator
No it’s an early frame (2015), so you could choose to use either bottom bracket. Newer bikes now come with only one bottom bracket.
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