Think i might need talking down..

guerney

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How bright are your indicators? I admit to being a little obsessed with bright lights - to trust indicators with my indications, I'd want them much brighter than normal. Spotted these 2 pin waterproof flashers, seemed a bargain for £2.15 with free delivery.


54735


They flash these otherwise not fit for purpose "For Bafang" headlights:



...but these only start flashing when supplied with 13.2V, which I suppose is fine if the 36V to 12V converter is none too accurate. I'm mulling over whether to hot glue them or lights more suitable onto Oxford safety arms to flip out either side of my pannier rack... but there's rather a lot of stuff on my bike already.





(pictured before extra headlights and rear 1800LM flasher installation)

54733


1800LM red flasher:

54734
 
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AGS

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These are the indicators, 12v 4W halogen bulbs.


And this is the 8W flasher unit.



I dunno how bright they are. I’ll try to take a photo when it gets dark.
 

thelarkbox

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Postie has delivered the last few bits n bobs and well im somewhat disappointed in the quality of some of the ultra cheap components i selected. primarily these handlebar buttons..
buttons1


and button2



Both will let any water in and are fitted with wires so thin.. if wired upto turn on the lighting i have planned the wires connecting the button switches will glow like a vapers coil. So to use i will need to employ a low voltage control circuit switching relays or mosfets

the wires are pictured in the ad for buttons 2 i just didnt register them until arrival of the units.

I also think i went a bit ott with the cheapo horn, as its got a 3a draw rating 'gulp' I initially tested it with my poormans variable psu (tattoo gun psu 1.5a) 14v is just enough to nudge its coil into a burp precursor



the dc/dc converter has a 5v rail (2a) and i have some 2x and 4x 5v relay modules at hand its just a pita and further gubbins to waterproof and hide away somewhere..

so i will be sketching out circuit layouts on paper

Im planning on employing 2 indicating lights one with a conventional flasher the second with a constant dc feed displaying an effect. As the +ve feed to the one set of indicators is intermittent/flashing and constant to the 2nd
(Edit to finish.. ) - I will switch the ground -ve side of the indicator circuits and flasher module..... (edit end)


(Thought i had posted the above yesterday.. whoops.. ) and Today...
Trunking and led neon sriplights, A diy match made in heaven.. the 20mm width holds 3 x lengths snugly and straight, the 10mm 2x lengths also.. This has inspired me to plan to fabricate a number of straight neon-ish light bars, I think black pvc electrical tape will make an ideal cheap hard wearing black coating for the white trunking. Next wet weekend i have a lil job..
 

guerney

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somewhat disappointed in the quality of some of the ultra cheap components i selected. primarily these handlebar buttons..
Both will let any water in and are fitted with wires so thin..
I have a horn button version of those, and looking at that alone persuaded me to avoid that type altogether. This style has proven waterproof:




... I also use a dual vertical version from this seller - vertical because there's not much space on my handlebar. Only AliExpress had them, and lol of course true to form what I received wasn't what I ordered, but this time it was better (which made a nice change), because the lower button is three position:





I've also just now spotted this handlebar end mount version, good job too, because there's no space left on my handlebar.



I did see a high quality alloy version of those, reassuringly expensive and only on AliExpress - needle in a haystack seeking those out however.
 
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thelarkbox

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cheers @guerney what i want is an easy to operate indicator switch and Stoopidly thought something sold as an aftermarket motorcycle spare part would at least be weatherproof?? silly me..

However a little ebay exploring and 'real' 2nd use motorcycle left side switchgear sell for a tenner +pnp have wiring that can handle amps, and most have indicator switching ,light control and a horn button.. So.. a browsing i shall go...

have you considered membrane buttons at all for your end of bar button options, at a £ or so if one dies after a bad winter stick a new one on top of it, again just suitable for logic level voltage and currents but a relay stuffed further down the bars can switch heavier loads.
 
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guerney

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However a little ebay exploring and 'real' 2nd use motorcycle left side switchgear sell for a tenner +pnp have wiring that can handle amps, and most have indicator switching ,light control and a horn button.. So.. a browsing i shall go...
Could you post a link of whichever you settle on?


have you considered membrane buttons at all for your end of bar button options, at a £ or so if one dies after a bad winter stick a new one on top of it, again just suitable for logic level voltage and currents but a relay stuffed further down the bars can switch heavier loads.
Good idea. However I'm terrible at electronics and would prefer to keep circuitrickery as simple as possible, therefore simple big dumb switches with wires soldered directly to lights is my preference. Less to go wrong.


what i want is an easy to operate indicator switch and Stoopidly thought something sold as an aftermarket motorcycle spare part would at least be weatherproof?? silly me..
Aha, I've found what claims to be an aluminium version of a switch you've pictured - what AliExpress actually sends may be a surprise (the low price raises suspicions). There was a much more expensive and sleek version somewhere. The red and yellow buttons are non-latching... would it be practical to say, press and hold for left and right indicators? Other buttons for the other lights?






...and...


 

thelarkbox

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Thanks @guerney but no thanks.. Rather than continue spending more and more without making any actual progress i think now its time to use what i have and replace with better when/if it fails, all i need is the 1 button interface with indicator switching, (more than 1 button..) and i can live with the low voltage control circuit and have a not very cunning plan to deal with housing xtra unwanted circuitry (stick an empty stacking box inside the first containing circuitry/wires etc in the bottom)
 

AGS

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Mine. It’s waterproof. Wuxing parts are good quality.


Must use relays though, otherwise the wiring could become overloaded. I use this for lights, indicators and brake light.


I have 36v to 72v horn and I have wired that straight through the switch at 52v and it’s ok so far. A 12v horn uses way too much current. Mine works at 200mA.

 
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AGS

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All of the same stuff is going on my Puch Maxi when I get around to converting it. It’s gonna have a big motor though and a huge battery.
 

guerney

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Think i might need talking down..
I never will...


Rather than continue spending more and more without making any actual progress i think now its time to use what i have and replace with better when/if it fails
...no matter how much it costs you.


Mine. It’s waterproof. Wuxing parts are good quality.
Had seen those, wondered about their waterproofing claims, so cheers that's very useful information. I've got very limited space on my handlebar, and there are never enough measurements quoted for handlebar switches. For example a, b and c below (if I was about to buy them, but I'm not, because they're a bit wide and I need more switches):


54827


Must use relays though, otherwise the wiring could become overloaded.
A very sensible thought when considering DC and long cable runs at high amps, however, my bike's small, the cables are short, and besides, the 3A inline blade fuse hasn't blown, the wires never warm let alone get hot even after many hours of my lights being on (I sometimes use them to run down my battery), neither do the switches, and I don't plan to install additional lights because the ones I have are very effective day and night (never say never), so I don't think I need relays, not yet anyway... but my bike suddenly erupting with flaming wiring could yet prove me wrong. Thanks for posting the link to that bunch of relays, which I've bookmarked for if (big if) I decide it's totally and unavoidably necessary to go through the rigmarole of installing seriously bloody bright indicators, when I might need relays.

Talking of my lights and lollipops ad nauseam again, something nice happened tonight - a passenger stuck his head out of the window of a passing car and shouted "I CAN HARDLY SEE YOU COMING!" Made me laugh. As always, I was lit up like a Christmas tree, and not just the bike. Turn volume up after the 24 second mark. Unfortunately the "I CAN" is missing because my camera has front facing microphones. My lights and lollipops do the job for sure. Note how the car allows the right hand side handlebar-end mounted Oxford lollipop plenty of room while passing, like they all do now.




All of the same stuff is going on my Puch Maxi when I get around to converting it. It’s gonna have a big motor though and a huge battery.
Whoa. I look forward to reading that thread! 88.8 Gigawatts?
 
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AGS

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I‘m going to treat it to a QS205 V3 3T hub motor with a custom swing arm, coupled to a 100A Sabvoton controller, running at 7.5 kW. It’s gonna be mega.
 
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guerney

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I‘m going to treat it to a QS205 V3 3T hub motor with a custom swing arm, coupled to a 100A Sabvoton controller, running at 7.5 kW. It’s gonna be mega.
That'd go like a stabbed rat! If you live next door to @StuartsProjects, he'd be delighted if you linked lots of cheap Chinese "9999999Ah" battery packs in series and parallel ;)
 
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AGS

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I will build the battery and I will be using decent cells from Fogstar. And I’m thinking about using Vruzend cell holders, but undecided yet. It depends how much room I have when I build the battery box. It will be trapezoid shaped to fill the frame space, with a dummy fuel tank on top to house the controller and other electronics.

A big motor needs a decent battery, unlike the chinese rubbish sold on eBay.

The 100 Amps will be used for rapid acceleration. I expect to cruise between 30 and 50 Amps. And I’m expecting top speed to be between 50 and 60 mph on a 19” wheel.
 
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thelarkbox

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Mine. It’s waterproof. Wuxing parts are good quality.

Cheers.. have pushed the button on one of those switch sets.. damn the cost!!

as for relays, since i have a 5v2a rail from the psu i selected i will use 5v switching relays in modules aimed at the arduino diy ecosystem. and this will facilitate any 'smart' additions i finally add..

Cant wait to read about and see the pics of the Puch Maxi build?? will the mods in here allow it? if not please post a link....
 

thelarkbox

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The diy back/brake light takes shape.. Ive whittled the led neon strip to fold in on itself twice for a 3xlight bar a few times and added 2 x orange indicator elements to each end of a nominally longer strip intended to sit at the top..

tests at 6V and 12v for running lights and brake lights taken during the day circa 3:30 pm under the window facing north

6v..IMG220301-000235F.JPG

and 12v
IMG220301-000214F.JPG

an unlit wires all over the place..
IMG220301-000011F.JPG

the orange indicator strips light @ 12v too.
Now to seal up and fit reflective piping in the trunking lid gaps..

I may run the lights at 7- 8v? I do have a sparkely bright rear led powered independently by dynamo and capacitors too..
 

guerney

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Must be American :(
About 0.6% of Americans are of Welsh heritage.


I may run the lights at 7- 8v?
12V at least! IMHO preferably even brighter for bright sunny days. You want them bright enough to dissolve your cyclist's invisibility cloak. You don't want the driver saying "I'm so sorry about the sticky red mess on the road, I didn't see his indicator." Indicators would have to be extremely bright and and spaced an effective clearly discernable distance apart, for me to bet my life on them. For my bike, they'd also need to fold, so my vapourware indicator project is on the back burner for now. I'll continue indicating with my arms.
 
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thelarkbox

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The final fabrication process of building my diy rear lights has been completed.
if anyone is interested in replicating.
Materials:
led neon rope..
25mm wide trunking minus the lid
some paracord 2x the length of your total light length.
some 2mm thick cardboard
clear silicone (bathroom sealant)
45mm heatshrink
wires, solder ....

pop a layer of cardboard under the led rope sandwich to raise it up a tad, seal all exposed ends with silicone, fill the trunking lid gap with silicone and press fit reflective paracord cut to length and smear any excess silicone over the cord. (messy ;) )

i did the silicone in 2 stages 1 x to seal and the 2nd time to fit the cord and trim/fill gaps.

I killed one strip bending the lead wires too violently pulling the solderpads off the led strip..
note to future self,,,, solder leads on in the exit direction..

IMG231107-134317F.JPG

I also put card light barriers in between the red and amber strips to stop light bleed.

the last 3rd silicone sealant top up to fill the shrunk heat shrink ends is now curing.

And with the arrival of the waterproof switch-set recommended above i can now start the install..
 

AndyBike

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Interesting bike. Though I'll bet that weighs a fair bit lol

Have to say though I think your 'ammo box' rear panniers are a bit clunky looking. Perhaps some sort of matching brown leather saddle bags type of thing might suit better.