The cable is easy to find. It's on Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress and everywhere else, but you won't find the cable with the Suntour connector unless you can find a used one on Ebay. All you need to do is solder the nine wires and heatshrink them.
If I were the judge, I'd find the puppy innocent of that one. To me, it doesn't look like what a puppy would do. Once they start, they don't stop. I'm thinking that it was damaged by the kickstand because the cable wasn't tied back properly after wheel removal. When and why was the kickstand removed?
On Chinese controllers, the MOSFET resistance is typically in the range 3K to 24K, so I don't think you have anything to worry about.So finally an update on this....My nephew managed to source a "matching" wheel - and after a rather unnerving trip around a very dodgy housing estate in Salford, I got the wheel off a nice chap who offered me more parts as he had moved onto a 40mph scooter instead! I've now got to see the bike - wow. Some people have no ideas how to look after machinery - but that is a whole different story!
The wheel he bought is buckled - not sure how but the rim is on its way to be bent in half - but spotless and working! So my thought was to swap motor internals over. this is where things go awry.....
Firstly, the hub numbers don't match up - while both are CAN models, his is an EBHM22 CAN-1 hub, while the donor is an EBHM20-CAN hub. the connector on the cable is larger with larger brass pins, so i'm assuming its the earlier model. The actually motor internals don't fit the hub either, as the whole dimensions are slightly smaller as well. I then notice the other side of the connector - that has most definitely been chewed by a dog as well - and it seems the dog liked chewing the wire so much it went back and destroyed most of the cable even more! most definite teeth marks...!
So i've stripped both motors apart, and just finished swapping the good wiring over from the earlier hub - however now I need to source the connector from the wheel to the controller - any ideas where? Also, i've been told that he didn't actually notice the chewed cable until he turned on the bike and got a hall sensor error and the motor wouldn't work - so it's been connected up in it's mangled state!
There are no signs of damage or burning inside the hub, and the controller looks ok as well. I've tested and the three phases are all minimal resistance between them on the hub, so it looks like the windings are ok. i've connector to the controller with a multimeter and 0.9Mohms between power + and each of the phase wires; and 0.91Mohms between them when connected to the power - on the controller. I've read that it should be infinite if ok, so am i now looking for a new controller? Can anyone offer any advice of how i could easily test in the motor or controller are scrwed on my bench, or is it a case of putting back together and hoping for the best lol
Many thanks for your help guys!
So finally an update on this....My nephew managed to source a "matching" wheel - and after a rather unnerving trip around a very dodgy housing estate in Salford, I got the wheel off a nice chap who offered me more parts as he had moved onto a 40mph scooter instead! I've now got to see the bike - wow. Some people have no ideas how to look after machinery - but that is a whole different story!
The wheel he bought is buckled - not sure how but the rim is on its way to be bent in half - but spotless and working! So my thought was to swap motor internals over. this is where things go awry.....
Firstly, the hub numbers don't match up - while both are CAN models, his is an EBHM22 CAN-1 hub, while the donor is an EBHM20-CAN hub. the connector on the cable is larger with larger brass pins, so i'm assuming its the earlier model. The actually motor internals don't fit the hub either, as the whole dimensions are slightly smaller as well. I then notice the other side of the connector - that has most definitely been chewed by a dog as well - and it seems the dog liked chewing the wire so much it went back and destroyed most of the cable even more! most definite teeth marks...!
So i've stripped both motors apart, and just finished swapping the good wiring over from the earlier hub - however now I need to source the connector from the wheel to the controller - any ideas where? Also, i've been told that he didn't actually notice the chewed cable until he turned on the bike and got a hall sensor error and the motor wouldn't work - so it's been connected up in it's mangled state!
There are no signs of damage or burning inside the hub, and the controller looks ok as well. I've tested and the three phases are all minimal resistance between them on the hub, so it looks like the windings are ok. i've connector to the controller with a multimeter and 0.9Mohms between power + and each of the phase wires; and 0.91Mohms between them when connected to the power - on the controller. I've read that it should be infinite if ok, so am i now looking for a new controller? Can anyone offer any advice of how i could easily test in the motor or controller are scrwed on my bench, or is it a case of putting back together and hoping for the best lol
Many thanks for your help guys!
Forgot
You need to take apart completely the chainwheel arrangement and clean it all out. There's a thin large diameter seal between the fixed and moving parts, which gets destroyed if you use it in bad conditions. I'm pretty sure that it would be impossible to get a replacement. Any crud in there will make a grinding sound. I show something about it in this thread:
www.pedelecs.co.uk
www.pedelecs.co.uk
I've got a full suspension pedal only Cube MTB which i built myself and love, but after years of saying i'd never get an e-bike, dodgy knee ligaments are now forcing me to reconsider.... Expect me around again soon 
