SR Suntour Hub Flylead/Connector

I am trying to repair a dog chewed motor cable on a Carrera vengeance 2.1e. I'm more than happy to strip the motor down and replace the cable, but i am really struggling to find out what the 9 pin connector is that joins the hub to the controller - all the ones i've seen have 9 pins, but with a central one. I would have thought finding a replacement cable, or even an extension cable would be easy to find!

 

Can anyone offer any advice please?

I am trying to repair a dog chewed motor cable on a Carrera vengeance 2.1e. I'm more than happy to strip the motor down and replace the cable, but i am really struggling to find out what the 9 pin connector is that joins the hub to the controller - all the ones i've seen have 9 pins, but with a central one. I would have thought finding a replacement cable, or even an extension cable would be easy to find!

 

Can anyone offer any advice please?

The cable is easy to find. It's on Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress and everywhere else, but you won't find the cable with the Suntour connector unless you can find a used one on Ebay. All you need to do is solder the nine wires and heatshrink them.

 

How could the dog chew the cable when it's all tied down and tucked in? What really happened?

Thanks for the reply. I’ve identified it as a Higo Z115A connector but they don’t list that specific one, so clearly an awkward custom one!

it’s actually my nephews bike - it’s kept in the house and they have a new puppy…I was as surprised as you as never seen dogs chew cables like that before! I did think of just splicing some cable in but was worried about water ingress and unsure if the cable was reinforced (only seen images so far). Will resign myself to a spliced cable then….

Edited November 10, 20241 yr by bigi

Thanks for the reply. I’ve identified it as a Higo Z115A connector but they don’t list that specific one, so clearly an awkward custom one!

it’s actually my nephews bike - it’s kept in the house and they have a new puppy…I was as surprised as you as never seen dogs chew cables like that before! I did think of just splicing some cable in but was worried about water ingress and unsure if the cable was reinforced (only seen images so far). Will resign myself to a spliced cable then….

If I were the judge, I'd find the puppy innocent of that one. To me, it doesn't look like what a puppy would do. Once they start, they don't stop. I'm thinking that it was damaged by the kickstand because the cable wasn't tied back properly after wheel removal. When and why was the kickstand removed?

 

I've spliced motor cables many times. heatshring the individual ones, then put a big heatshrink over all of them. You can also add a couple of small cable-ties to close the ends if you want, but don't pull so tight that you squish the cable.

Like I say I haven’t seen it physically yet so can only go on what he’s told us! You may well be right though, I notice there’s a missing zip tie….

Fair enough, I’ve spliced enough car cables before, think I’ve got some shrink wrap with adhesive in them which might come in useful. Thanks for the advice!

Hi the Velcro’s cover is missing .

where the damage is .

 

If you are able to you could just wire a a replacement standard 9 pin Chinese cable and extension into your motor then up to the ECU / Controller the colours are the same on Suntours and YOSE for instance you can get cable s from YOSE or as Senegal said e bay has lots .

 

or just do a repair there are some handy heat gun soldering connectors that work well then heat shrink over the top of them.

 

It all works with a heat gun for DIY

Or look on e bay for some one who is selling a Suntour motor for parts only and ask to buy the wire coming out of the motor only you might be lucky if you offer £20 quid for just the wire

So finally an update on this....My nephew managed to source a "matching" wheel - and after a rather unnerving trip around a very dodgy housing estate in Salford, I got the wheel off a nice chap who offered me more parts as he had moved onto a 40mph scooter instead! I've now got to see the bike - wow. Some people have no ideas how to look after machinery - but that is a whole different story!

The wheel he bought is buckled - not sure how but the rim is on its way to be bent in half - but spotless and working! So my thought was to swap motor internals over. this is where things go awry.....

 

Firstly, the hub numbers don't match up - while both are CAN models, his is an EBHM22 CAN-1 hub, while the donor is an EBHM20-CAN hub. the connector on the cable is larger with larger brass pins, so i'm assuming its the earlier model. The actually motor internals don't fit the hub either, as the whole dimensions are slightly smaller as well. I then notice the other side of the connector - that has most definitely been chewed by a dog as well - and it seems the dog liked chewing the wire so much it went back and destroyed most of the cable even more! most definite teeth marks...!

So i've stripped both motors apart, and just finished swapping the good wiring over from the earlier hub - however now I need to source the connector from the wheel to the controller - any ideas where? Also, i've been told that he didn't actually notice the chewed cable until he turned on the bike and got a hall sensor error and the motor wouldn't work - so it's been connected up in it's mangled state!

 

There are no signs of damage or burning inside the hub, and the controller looks ok as well. I've tested and the three phases are all minimal resistance between them on the hub, so it looks like the windings are ok. i've connector to the controller with a multimeter and 0.9Mohms between power + and each of the phase wires; and 0.91Mohms between them when connected to the power - on the controller. I've read that it should be infinite if ok, so am i now looking for a new controller? Can anyone offer any advice of how i could easily test in the motor or controller are scrwed on my bench, or is it a case of putting back together and hoping for the best lol

 

Many thanks for your help guys!

Edited February 11, 20251 yr by bigi

So finally an update on this....My nephew managed to source a "matching" wheel - and after a rather unnerving trip around a very dodgy housing estate in Salford, I got the wheel off a nice chap who offered me more parts as he had moved onto a 40mph scooter instead! I've now got to see the bike - wow. Some people have no ideas how to look after machinery - but that is a whole different story!

The wheel he bought is buckled - not sure how but the rim is on its way to be bent in half - but spotless and working! So my thought was to swap motor internals over. this is where things go awry.....

 

Firstly, the hub numbers don't match up - while both are CAN models, his is an EBHM22 CAN-1 hub, while the donor is an EBHM20-CAN hub. the connector on the cable is larger with larger brass pins, so i'm assuming its the earlier model. The actually motor internals don't fit the hub either, as the whole dimensions are slightly smaller as well. I then notice the other side of the connector - that has most definitely been chewed by a dog as well - and it seems the dog liked chewing the wire so much it went back and destroyed most of the cable even more! most definite teeth marks...!

So i've stripped both motors apart, and just finished swapping the good wiring over from the earlier hub - however now I need to source the connector from the wheel to the controller - any ideas where? Also, i've been told that he didn't actually notice the chewed cable until he turned on the bike and got a hall sensor error and the motor wouldn't work - so it's been connected up in it's mangled state!

 

There are no signs of damage or burning inside the hub, and the controller looks ok as well. I've tested and the three phases are all minimal resistance between them on the hub, so it looks like the windings are ok. i've connector to the controller with a multimeter and 0.9Mohms between power + and each of the phase wires; and 0.91Mohms between them when connected to the power - on the controller. I've read that it should be infinite if ok, so am i now looking for a new controller? Can anyone offer any advice of how i could easily test in the motor or controller are scrwed on my bench, or is it a case of putting back together and hoping for the best lol

 

Many thanks for your help guys!

On Chinese controllers, the MOSFET resistance is typically in the range 3K to 24K, so I don't think you have anything to worry about.

When testing on the Gnd side is doesn't have to be infinite , the reading one doesn't want to see is zero.

So finally an update on this....My nephew managed to source a "matching" wheel - and after a rather unnerving trip around a very dodgy housing estate in Salford, I got the wheel off a nice chap who offered me more parts as he had moved onto a 40mph scooter instead! I've now got to see the bike - wow. Some people have no ideas how to look after machinery - but that is a whole different story!

The wheel he bought is buckled - not sure how but the rim is on its way to be bent in half - but spotless and working! So my thought was to swap motor internals over. this is where things go awry.....

 

Firstly, the hub numbers don't match up - while both are CAN models, his is an EBHM22 CAN-1 hub, while the donor is an EBHM20-CAN hub. the connector on the cable is larger with larger brass pins, so i'm assuming its the earlier model. The actually motor internals don't fit the hub either, as the whole dimensions are slightly smaller as well. I then notice the other side of the connector - that has most definitely been chewed by a dog as well - and it seems the dog liked chewing the wire so much it went back and destroyed most of the cable even more! most definite teeth marks...!

So i've stripped both motors apart, and just finished swapping the good wiring over from the earlier hub - however now I need to source the connector from the wheel to the controller - any ideas where? Also, i've been told that he didn't actually notice the chewed cable until he turned on the bike and got a hall sensor error and the motor wouldn't work - so it's been connected up in it's mangled state!

 

There are no signs of damage or burning inside the hub, and the controller looks ok as well. I've tested and the three phases are all minimal resistance between them on the hub, so it looks like the windings are ok. i've connector to the controller with a multimeter and 0.9Mohms between power + and each of the phase wires; and 0.91Mohms between them when connected to the power - on the controller. I've read that it should be infinite if ok, so am i now looking for a new controller? Can anyone offer any advice of how i could easily test in the motor or controller are scrwed on my bench, or is it a case of putting back together and hoping for the best lol

 

Many thanks for your help guys!

So it appears all is not well! Have swapped the cable from the ‘new’ hub over to the existing one (soldered in directly) and sourced a matching earlier cable to the controller. Powered up and seemed good - registering speed on display - then turned on the motor assistance …. Error 42.

Any suggestions? Apparently this was the error he first got when turning in the chewed mess!

 

Hi Bigi

 

How are you getting on , is your bike fixed and back on the road ?

 

If you are still having problems

 

I have this Vengence 27.5 rim for sale on e bay bike had only done 80 miles bought from Halfords October 2024 I bought it in December.

 

I also have 4 or 5 Carrera Controlers.

 

Cheers Baz

Error 42 is hub motor internal Hall failure.

Grin Ebikes hall sensor test instructions

So it appears all is not well! Have swapped the cable from the ‘new’ hub over to the existing one (soldered in directly) and sourced a matching earlier cable to the controller. Powered up and seemed good - registering speed on display - then turned on the motor assistance …. Error 42.

Any suggestions? Apparently this was the error he first got when turning in the chewed mess!

Forgot

to attach photo I have Three motors in stock All tested Working the other 2.7 inch one is from a Subway that has also had very little use an elderly gentleman bought it over Covid and never used it so I have the whole bike I will break for parts shortly.

but if you can not sort it I suggest you sell off the other e parts and put an after market road legal kit on it YOSE 250w for instance it’s a bit of messing but then you can get new cheap replacement spares.

 

I think error 42 is usually caused by water ingress or broken cable

So a further update! bought one of the cheap testers of Amazon and one of the hall sensors was failing; stripped motor apart again, and it had come loose from the board - but even after reconnecting, it was faulty (not reacting to magnet and just staying on). Luckily the other wheel we bought has the same hall sensors on, so swapped it over and wheel works again - connected everything up and no errors, which is great.

The bike is just about completely rebuilt now (come people have no idea how to look after machinery!) - new forks, new hydraulic brakes, new headset, new derailleur, cassette and chain, new gear trigger shift.

 

one problem i've now come across if the crankset assembly - had it apart and cleaned several times and no matter what it scrapes when going round. looks like it's been happening for a while because there are grooves inside from the sensor teeth! i can't find any noticeable damage to the back cover; but cannot stop the damn think scraping.

 

Anyone got any suggestions please? i had to replace the left crank because it was somehow(!!) bent - but the crankset side doesn't seem to be damaged.

So a further update! bought one of the cheap testers of Amazon and one of the hall sensors was failing; stripped motor apart again, and it had come loose from the board - but even after reconnecting, it was faulty (not reacting to magnet and just staying on). Luckily the other wheel we bought has the same hall sensors on, so swapped it over and wheel works again - connected everything up and no errors, which is great.

The bike is just about completely rebuilt now (come people have no idea how to look after machinery!) - new forks, new hydraulic brakes, new headset, new derailleur, cassette and chain, new gear trigger shift.

 

one problem i've now come across if the crankset assembly - had it apart and cleaned several times and no matter what it scrapes when going round. looks like it's been happening for a while because there are grooves inside from the sensor teeth! i can't find any noticeable damage to the back cover; but cannot stop the damn think scraping.

 

Anyone got any suggestions please? i had to replace the left crank because it was somehow(!!) bent - but the crankset side doesn't seem to be damaged.

You need to take apart completely the chainwheel arrangement and clean it all out. There's a thin large diameter seal between the fixed and moving parts, which gets destroyed if you use it in bad conditions. I'm pretty sure that it would be impossible to get a replacement. Any crud in there will make a grinding sound. I show something about it in this thread:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/suntour-carrera-torque-sensor-problem.39620/

 

Here's one I stripped down:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/carrera-crossfire-vulcan-torque-sensor.30490/

thanks for the quick helpful reply! Interesting seeing yours, as the seal on this one seems ok, although the centre collar that clips into the metal backplate isn't stuck and can unclip. what i also noticed is the one i have had 2 shims instead of one - all this seems to do is allow for more movement and quicker wear!

ripped it all apart again and found a slight uneven backplate where its been crunched - cleaned up and oiled it instead - seems better at least - agree though, its a shocking design for the price!

Finally back together - and looks like it works - in other words its not giving errors and reads the speed etc ok. when i pedal and turn on assist is spins up the back wheel in pulses - no idea if that's because its in the air and the torque sensor isn't detecting changes in torque or something - never ridden it so don't know how it behaves.

 

Lets hope the nephew looks after it this time...considering it's his way to work you'd hope so!!

 

Thanks for all the help on here - really got me through this mess!

 

I'm now looking for a better specced "project" e-bike for myself - with a crank housed motor....can't be doing with all these bare wires and custom brake discs etc lol I've got a full suspension pedal only Cube MTB which i built myself and love, but after years of saying i'd never get an e-bike, dodgy knee ligaments are now forcing me to reconsider.... Expect me around again soon

ripped it all apart again and found a slight uneven backplate where its been crunched - cleaned up and oiled it instead - seems better at least - agree though, its a shocking design for the price!

Finally back together - and looks like it works - in other words its not giving errors and reads the speed etc ok. when i pedal and turn on assist is spins up the back wheel in pulses - no idea if that's because its in the air and the torque sensor isn't detecting changes in torque or something - never ridden it so don't know how it behaves.

 

Lets hope the nephew looks after it this time...considering it's his way to work you'd hope so!!

 

Thanks for all the help on here - really got me through this mess!

 

I'm now looking for a better specced "project" e-bike for myself - with a crank housed motor....can't be doing with all these bare wires and custom brake discs etc lol I've got a full suspension pedal only Cube MTB which i built myself and love, but after years of saying i'd never get an e-bike, dodgy knee ligaments are now forcing me to reconsider.... Expect me around again soon

There are two signals to the controller that go down separate wires. One has a pulsing signal for how fast you're pedalling, which is given by the light going through the castellations. The other is a 5v analogue signal given by measuring the length of the pulses, which decrease as you pedal harder. The actual operation is pretty well fool-proof regarding the electronics and the way it gets those signals, so any intermittence in the power is more likely to be a connection problem. If the chain comes off, it normally damages or pulls the wires into the tplastic part, so have a good look at those, or you can test them with a meter if it packs up completely.

 

One other thing that I forgot to mention is that you can remove a couple of springs to get maximum power with less pedal effort.

ripped it all apart again and found a slight uneven backplate where its been crunched - cleaned up and oiled it instead - seems better at least - agree though, its a shocking design for the price!

Finally back together - and looks like it works - in other words its not giving errors and reads the speed etc ok. when i pedal and turn on assist is spins up the back wheel in pulses - no idea if that's because its in the air and the torque sensor isn't detecting changes in torque or something - never ridden it so don't know how it behaves.

 

Lets hope the nephew looks after it this time...considering it's his way to work you'd hope so!!

 

Thanks for all the help on here - really got me through this mess!

 

I'm now looking for a better specced "project" e-bike for myself - with a crank housed motor....can't be doing with all these bare wires and custom brake discs etc lol I've got a full suspension pedal only Cube MTB which i built myself and love, but after years of saying i'd never get an e-bike, dodgy knee ligaments are now forcing me to reconsider.... Expect me around again soon

 

I had knee ligament problems last year. Couldn't cycle and had to go up the stairs one step at a time.

 

NHS rest but use advice followed but did not work.

 

Read about zero drop aka barefoot footwear. Tried a pair and the problem went away instantly.

 

Now have zero drop walking boots, slippers, shoes & steel capped boots.

Edited March 17, 20251 yr by smifee

Hi if you have any more major problems Carrera .

 

Strip all the e bits out sell any good ones on here or e bay and put after market bits on it .

 

Then you will not get stitched up for the cost of new Carrera Parts.

 

The Cranks , PAS sensors and lcd screens are sort after SH because they are shite !!!! And fail .

Hi Big

As this post is about fixing a Suntour Motor is it ok to add to it ?

 

only I just part x a Suntours motor for a food delivery guy it’s just spinning .

He has been using a 52V battery on a Carrera Subway to do his deliveries I advised him to get a 36V battery or he would burn out the nearly new motor I sold him.

 

I also just bought in a Vengence around 800 miles on the meter with Error 43 on the LCD .

I checked all the controller connections that seem to be fine I am going to test the motor today with a different controller.

 

As an internal motor Virgin repair er I plan to open them both up and try and make one working motor from them the one with error 43 probably has the least miles .

 

I will post some photos once I have them on the bench and have a good read off your posts .

 

Cheers

Baz