S-KU95 controller help

[Nealh]

Brakes sensors disconnect them and try motor, if possible try the pas option I suggested for testing before throttle at the end of #57.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

The wire short is only 2 pin so usually for eabs of cruise control.
Double check your hall connector and make sure all pins are inserted nicely and none are backing out, and are colour to colour.

Done, all connectors are fine but still no movement.
I've tried to isolate the issue, I've tried with and without brakes connected, I've disconnected the accelerator and connected the pas and passed the magnet over, no moment, same with both connected. I've also tried with and without the hall sensor connected.
LED shows power is fine and also checked with multi meter so no battery issues.
I've been very careful doing these things, battery has been switched off and removed before disconnecting or connecting anything

 

[Nealh]

Hmmm distance fault finding is not always easy and sometimes a hands on effort is needed. Ideally we are now in the need local help in trying to find fault even to the point of trying someone else's hall motor connected up.
Is your hub new or an old used one.
Also now the motor halls are properly insulated in their respective connector disconnect and try motor as it should run with halls.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

It's brand new, I ordered it all together from bms , it was a kit so I know controller and hub are compatible the battery was bought separately from eBay it's this exact one https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/142646416393.
I think I may have to bite the bullet and take it to a bike shop and see if they can help

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
In #10 you said I mistakenly connected 1234 together and powered up this would have caused controller damage but not motor damage as the motor halls weren't connected.

Yeah that's correct , the three main wires to the wheel were connected and I had all the wires on the hall sensor controller side connected and then put the battery on but I'm 90% sure i had not shorted the LED at this point because it wasn't mentioned till #30 and I had no idea, so there was no power in the wires I shorted.
Thanks for your help with this, my meds have kicked in now so I'll going to leave this till I have a clear head in the morning, thanks for your help

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
In #10 you said I mistakenly connected 1234 together and powered up this would have caused controller damage but not motor damage as the motor halls weren't connected.

Morning, I've been having a think and I wanted to run it past you.
I know I don't have a controller issue as I have had two, neither solved the problem.
I know it isn't brakes as I have disconnected, I know it isn't hall sensor as this set up will run without one and tried with it disconnected. I know it isn't a throttle issue as I have bypassed that by trying the PAS without it working. I can be pretty sure it isn't the LED as it's the only part I can see gets power.
As far as I can see all I'm left with is the wheel or the cable from the controller to the wheel that could be the fault, does that make sense to you or is there something I've missed

 

[Nealh]

The controller wire/cable to the hub is easy to check with a continuity check on each wire/pin out and will give a definite buzz.
The led receives power via the controller and then sends signal back, you should see 54.6v at the controllers +/- wires with all connected up.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

The controller wire/cable to the hub is easy to check with a continuity check on each wire/pin out and will give a definite buzz.
The led receives power via the controller and then sends signal back, you should see 54.6v at the controllers +/- wires with all connected up.

I have continuity on the wire from controller to wheel. I also checked the three power pins on the wheel side of the wire and they had continuity with each other, does that suggest a short in the wheel somewhere?
There is no signs of over heating on the connectors, no burnt plastic smells around the motor .

I've just done this test on the 3 phase wires

It went lumpy as in the video across all three phase wires so that would suggest all is good there, I'm starting to think that my only course of action now is to go to an electric bike repair shop and see what they can tell me.

 

[Nealh]

Being a new motor there shouldn't be an issue as they don't usually cause issues unless abused.
We know it can run sensored or not so only the 3 phase wires can be of issue and unless there is damage where it enters the axle issues are unlikely.
Does the hub/motor turn on the axle ok.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Being a new motor there shouldn't be an issue as they don't usually cause issues unless abused.
We know it can run sensored or not so only the 3 phase wires can be of issue and unless there is damage where it enters the axle issues are unlikely.
Does the hub/motor turn on the axle ok.

See previous post, I was editing it as you were posting

 

[jhruk]

One more thing you could try. There is a possibility that your controller is configured to meet the EU standards so that the throttle will only work when the pas is engaged. If your 810 display has a 6kph ‘walk’ button, with the motor reconnected and power switched on, try holding this down and see if the motor turns. If the motor moves with this, but not the throttle, it’s most likely a controller configuration or throttle problem. If it doesn’t work you’re back where you started as this button may not be configured either.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

One more thing you could try. There is a possibility that your controller is configured to meet the EU standards so that the throttle will only work when the pas is engaged. If your 810 display has a 6kph ‘walk’ button, with the motor reconnected and power switched on, try holding this down and see if the motor turns. If the motor moves with this, but not the throttle, it’s most likely a controller configuration or throttle problem. If it doesn’t work you’re back where you started as this button may not be configured either.

Hoorah we are getting somewhere. Held the 6 kph down and the wheel spins. So what does this mean and what do I need to do to rectify it and thanks for your help

 

[Nealh]

One more thing you could try. There is a possibility that your controller is configured to meet the EU standards so that the throttle will only work when the pas is engaged. If your 810 display has a 6kph ‘walk’ button, with the motor reconnected and power switched on, try holding this down and see if the motor turns. If the motor moves with this, but not the throttle, it’s most likely a controller configuration or throttle problem. If it doesn’t work you’re back where you started as this button may not be configured either.

Nice one, I hadn't thought of that as my controllers are usually from PSWP and not needing parameters changing.

 

[Nealh]

Hoorah we are getting somewhere. Held the 6 kph down and the wheel spins. So what does this mean and what do I need to do to rectify it and thanks for your help

It means full throttle is only available once pas is activated and is configured so. To confirm this you need to manually get pas working first and only when pas is working try the throttle for full power.
Pas might be directional and handed so try magnet disc rotation in both directions.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

It means full throttle is only available once pas is activated and is configured so. To confirm this you need to manually get pas working first and only when pas is working try the throttle for full power.

So how would I go about that, I don't have pedals as it's electric power only.
I have a pas to connect to the controller but what else would I need to do?

 

[Nealh]

I think the bad news is it may not be able to change the settings of the KU95 to operate on full throttle alone.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

I think the bad news is it may not be able to change the settings of the KU95 to operate on full throttle alone.

Oh no, so the controller I have is not compatable , so I need to buy another type, bit of a gutter after just spending £50 on it but on the bright side at least I now know my battery and motor are fine.
So I'm not going to rush in to anything, I need to make sure i get it right this time so can you give me any pointers on what I need to look for.
Or would it be best to ask the people at bms battery which type I need.

 

[Nealh]

If the KT KU95 setting can't be changed to full throttle, then a KT dual voltage controller and lcd will work 100% as settings are user friendly and changeable.

The pair are about £57 inc p&p.
Sell the KU95 & lcd on here or ebay.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V-48V-500W-Brushless-DC-Sine-Wave-sensor-Controller-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Hub-Motor-Controller-with/1314442_32759790640.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.42c7382f9y2Htf

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ebike-24V-36V-48V-intelligent-LCD-Control-Panel-LCD-Display-Electric-Bicycle-bike-Parts-for-KT/32613010219.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.267.621863d4BwD7IS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_5722611_10548_10341_10696_5722911_10192_10190_5722811_10084_5722711_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_10059_306_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722511,searchweb201603_43,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=3c98178e-c280-45c8-a37a-e243e7034211-40&algo_pvid=3c98178e-c280-45c8-a37a-e243e7034211&priceBeautifyAB=0

Alternately S0xx series and lcd3 from bmsb.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

If the KT KU95 setting can't be changed to full throttle, then a KT dual voltage controller and lcd will work 100% as settings are user friendly and changeable.

The pair are about £57 inc p&p.
Sell the KU95 & lcd on here or ebay.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V-48V-500W-Brushless-DC-Sine-Wave-sensor-Controller-ebike-Electric-Bicycle-Hub-Motor-Controller-with/1314442_32759790640.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.42c7382f9y2Htf

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ebike-24V-36V-48V-intelligent-LCD-Control-Panel-LCD-Display-Electric-Bicycle-bike-Parts-for-KT/32613010219.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.267.621863d4BwD7IS&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_5722611_10548_10341_10696_5722911_10192_10190_5722811_10084_5722711_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_10059_306_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_5722511,searchweb201603_43,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=3c98178e-c280-45c8-a37a-e243e7034211-40&algo_pvid=3c98178e-c280-45c8-a37a-e243e7034211&priceBeautifyAB=0

Alternately S0xx series and lcd3 from bmsb.

So if I ordered from aliexpress would that controller come with the same connections . Also when you say the SOxx series are you meaning any controller that starts with SO , sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I just want to be sure i get it right this time.

 

[Nealh]

I have mulled over the throttle again, we know walk assist works so know power to hub is fine. I'm not certain that throttle is activated only when pas is used. Double check throttle pins outs match each other.