this bike as done about 10 miles under power and as now stopped working batterie checked and ok connections seem ok if rear wheel is moved backwards electrics bite and spin the wheel for a short time live in leeds yorkshire and cant find any repair outlets any ideas
proteam bike ( cyclamatic) electric problem
- Thread starter cando
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
There's a hidden multi-pin connector behind the chain-stay. They're usually covered in shrink-sleeve. Push both ends together as hard as you can without unsleeving it. See if that fixes the problem.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
My one had a connector about a foot from the motor. It was hidden behind the frame before you get anywhere near the battery.
When the motor stopped, had you done anything to the bike like taking the wheel off, disconnecting anything, etc or did it do it while riding along?
When the motor stopped, had you done anything to the bike like taking the wheel off, disconnecting anything, etc or did it do it while riding along?
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D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
To proceed now you need a voltmeter. If you haven't got one, you can get one from Maplin, any DIY shop or Ebay, or borrow one from a friend.
Digital LCD Multimeter Voltmeter Ammeter OHM AC DC Circuit Checker Tester Buzzer | eBay
It should be able to get to the root of your problem quickly. Let us know if/when you've got one.
Digital LCD Multimeter Voltmeter Ammeter OHM AC DC Circuit Checker Tester Buzzer | eBay
It should be able to get to the root of your problem quickly. Let us know if/when you've got one.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Remove the side panel off the controller compartment unser the battery and pull out the controller. Switch everything on. Find the throttle connector that will be white with three wires- black, red and green. Select 200v DC on your meter. Stick the red probe up the back of the red wire on the controller side connector, and the black up the black wire. Make sure that they make contact with the metal in there. You should get 5v. Report the result here, and then we can try the next test.
If you get 5v, try the throttle to see if it works, just in case it fixes itself by magic.
If you're not sure how to set your meter to DC, post a picture or a link to it.
If you get 5v, try the throttle to see if it works, just in case it fixes itself by magic.
If you're not sure how to set your meter to DC, post a picture or a link to it.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
That means that there's no problem with battery connections, so it's a problem between the controller and the motor.
The next test will require the help of a friend. There's a block connector with 5 thin wires in it (red, black, blue, green, yellow). While connected and switched on, check the red and back wires. you should get 5v again (or close). Then check between each colour (blue, green and yellow) and black whilst rotating the wheel slowly backwards. The meter should step on and off between 5v and 0v.
Next, put your motor on "beep" and check between each of the three thick motor wires and the motor case. There should be no beep. You have to pull apart the connectors for this one.
Finally, put your meter on 20 volts AC and put your probes on each pair of the thick motor wires (3 pairs, three wires) and get a helper to turn the motor backwards as fast as he can. You should see the voltage climb a bit on the meter.
These tests will show whether your motor's OK.
One more test on the throttle just to be sure. Check between the black and green wire on the throttle connector while you twist the throttle. It should change between about 1.3v and 3.7v. That shows that the throttle's working.
The next test will require the help of a friend. There's a block connector with 5 thin wires in it (red, black, blue, green, yellow). While connected and switched on, check the red and back wires. you should get 5v again (or close). Then check between each colour (blue, green and yellow) and black whilst rotating the wheel slowly backwards. The meter should step on and off between 5v and 0v.
Next, put your motor on "beep" and check between each of the three thick motor wires and the motor case. There should be no beep. You have to pull apart the connectors for this one.
Finally, put your meter on 20 volts AC and put your probes on each pair of the thick motor wires (3 pairs, three wires) and get a helper to turn the motor backwards as fast as he can. You should see the voltage climb a bit on the meter.
These tests will show whether your motor's OK.
One more test on the throttle just to be sure. Check between the black and green wire on the throttle connector while you twist the throttle. It should change between about 1.3v and 3.7v. That shows that the throttle's working.
Finally managed to do those tests, results as follows
The next test will require the help of a friend. There's a block connector with 5 thin wires in it (red, black, blue, green, yellow). While connected and switched on, check the red and back wires. you should get 5v again (or close). Then check between each colour (blue, green and yellow) and black whilst rotating the wheel slowly backwards. The meter should step on and off between 5v and 0v.
Black - Blue 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Green +5v permanent
Black - Yellow +5v permanent
Next, put your motor on "beep" and check between each of the three thick motor wires and the motor case. There should be no beep. You have to pull apart the connectors for this one.
No beep. All o/c
Finally, put your meter on 20 volts AC and put your probes on each pair of the thick motor wires (3 pairs, three wires) and get a helper to turn the motor backwards as fast as he can. You should see the voltage climb a bit on the meter.
Showed a slight climb in mv max 50mv
These tests will show whether your motor's OK.
One more test on the throttle just to be sure. Check between the black and green wire on the throttle connector while you twist the throttle. It should change between about 1.3v and 3.7v. That shows that the throttle's working.[/QUOTE]
Throttle test 0.9v - +4v
Cheers
The next test will require the help of a friend. There's a block connector with 5 thin wires in it (red, black, blue, green, yellow). While connected and switched on, check the red and back wires. you should get 5v again (or close). Then check between each colour (blue, green and yellow) and black whilst rotating the wheel slowly backwards. The meter should step on and off between 5v and 0v.
Black - Blue 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Green +5v permanent
Black - Yellow +5v permanent
Next, put your motor on "beep" and check between each of the three thick motor wires and the motor case. There should be no beep. You have to pull apart the connectors for this one.
No beep. All o/c
Finally, put your meter on 20 volts AC and put your probes on each pair of the thick motor wires (3 pairs, three wires) and get a helper to turn the motor backwards as fast as he can. You should see the voltage climb a bit on the meter.
Showed a slight climb in mv max 50mv
These tests will show whether your motor's OK.
One more test on the throttle just to be sure. Check between the black and green wire on the throttle connector while you twist the throttle. It should change between about 1.3v and 3.7v. That shows that the throttle's working.[/QUOTE]
Throttle test 0.9v - +4v
Cheers
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Two faulty hall connectors. If you're good at electrical and mechanical things, you can replace them, which requires a bt of surgery on the motor. Another solution is to replace the controller with a sensoless one, which costs about £20 to £30. You will probably have to change a couple of connectors. You can make an opportunity out of a crisis and get a KU65 that has an LED panel with three PAS levels or a nice one with LCD and 6 levels.
KU65 250W 6Mosfets Controller With LED Panel - BMSBATTERY
KU65 250W 6Mosfets Controller With LED Panel - BMSBATTERY
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Sorry, I wrote hall connector, but I meant hall sensor. You first task is to open up the motor to see how easy they are to change. Some are glued in, some are slotted in, and others just stand in air.
To disassemble the motor, you can leave the gears on, but you have to take everything else of the axle. I'm not sure, but I think you can leave the brake on too. Remove the screws that hold the side-plates on, and tap the axle with a soft mallet or wooden block. The core should pop out, then you can inspect it.
One last thing before you start. Have a good look at the cable where it exits the motor to make sure it's not damaged. If it is, you'll probably need to open the motor anyway.
Don't forget, you can run it as it is with a sensorless controller.
To disassemble the motor, you can leave the gears on, but you have to take everything else of the axle. I'm not sure, but I think you can leave the brake on too. Remove the screws that hold the side-plates on, and tap the axle with a soft mallet or wooden block. The core should pop out, then you can inspect it.
One last thing before you start. Have a good look at the cable where it exits the motor to make sure it's not damaged. If it is, you'll probably need to open the motor anyway.
Don't forget, you can run it as it is with a sensorless controller.
Hi d8veh,
I have read through this whole duscussion and I have Cyclamatic foldaway 24V bike which was absolutely ok till day before yesterday. I ran that completely on throttle for 10 mins (no padelling).
Next day I tried to use the bike I can't. I found the battery indicator close to throttle indicates full however there is no sign of life in motor. I have tested all the steps you have mentioned above. To be honest, I have encouraged to join the forum seeing at your reply. You are too good man.
Tests:
1. Battery connection is OK.
2. Black - Blue 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Green 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Yellow 0 - +5v stepping
3. Motor tests by checking voltage between wires shows upto couple of ac volts depending on the speed of backward rotation.
4. Within motor wire resistance 0.5 ohm but motor wire to motor case
No beep. All o/c
5. Only thing I can't test is the throttle and where I beleive the main problem. I tried to open the throtle to see what's there as I am new to E-bike. while trying to open the throttle I broke one leg connection of a three pin device which could be transistor or hall sensor. I will try to get the number but it's very small to read. however I can use magnifier to find it out.
My question to you now:
Is there any way to bypass throttle and test the bike with on/off switch only? FYI, neither switch nor throttle working now. How can I proceed now to see whether the controller is faulty or the throttle or brake(!!)?
Please help me. I would really appriciate your input. I know you are a very active member of the forum. I know electronics but very little about e-bike.
Thanks
Enamul
I have read through this whole duscussion and I have Cyclamatic foldaway 24V bike which was absolutely ok till day before yesterday. I ran that completely on throttle for 10 mins (no padelling).
Next day I tried to use the bike I can't. I found the battery indicator close to throttle indicates full however there is no sign of life in motor. I have tested all the steps you have mentioned above. To be honest, I have encouraged to join the forum seeing at your reply. You are too good man.
Tests:
1. Battery connection is OK.
2. Black - Blue 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Green 0 - +5v stepping
Black - Yellow 0 - +5v stepping
3. Motor tests by checking voltage between wires shows upto couple of ac volts depending on the speed of backward rotation.
4. Within motor wire resistance 0.5 ohm but motor wire to motor case
No beep. All o/c
5. Only thing I can't test is the throttle and where I beleive the main problem. I tried to open the throtle to see what's there as I am new to E-bike. while trying to open the throttle I broke one leg connection of a three pin device which could be transistor or hall sensor. I will try to get the number but it's very small to read. however I can use magnifier to find it out.
My question to you now:
Is there any way to bypass throttle and test the bike with on/off switch only? FYI, neither switch nor throttle working now. How can I proceed now to see whether the controller is faulty or the throttle or brake(!!)?
Please help me. I would really appriciate your input. I know you are a very active member of the forum. I know electronics but very little about e-bike.
Thanks
Enamul
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crikey, just to say this is the most unbelievably helpful post (we could all go and build pedelecs after this)