proteam bike ( cyclamatic) electric problem
- Thread starter cando
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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That's eliminated the battery as the cause.
You could try a basic test of the Mosfets. Set your meter to read resistance. You need a scale of over 20k Ohms. Measure between each phase wire and the positive battery wire and the same to the negative wire (6 results). It helps to discharge all the capacitors first by bridging their legs together. You might get a spark from the bigger ones, but don't worry about it. Post your results here.
You could try a basic test of the Mosfets. Set your meter to read resistance. You need a scale of over 20k Ohms. Measure between each phase wire and the positive battery wire and the same to the negative wire (6 results). It helps to discharge all the capacitors first by bridging their legs together. You might get a spark from the bigger ones, but don't worry about it. Post your results here.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have received my hall sensor today and replaced old broken one. I have tried to measure the voltage at signal lead at controller end while power sw is ON but found no voltage (0v) while I have rotated the throttle. I am not sure what is wrong there!!
I have opened my controller unit and found 6 mosfet in a row probably each pair managing one phase. I have checked 6 results while key ignition and SW both off and put the meter in 200KOhm range.
For +ve battery lead and phase wire resistance test meter start at 4.3 KOhm and becomes bit steady at 11.4kohm.
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase1 contact = 11kohm
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase2 contact = 11kohm
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase3 contact = 11kohm
But for negative lead and phase lead shows one single value directly no goes up.
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase1 contact = 11kohm
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase2 contact = 11kohm
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase3 contact = 11kohm
Thanks for your input
I have opened my controller unit and found 6 mosfet in a row probably each pair managing one phase. I have checked 6 results while key ignition and SW both off and put the meter in 200KOhm range.
For +ve battery lead and phase wire resistance test meter start at 4.3 KOhm and becomes bit steady at 11.4kohm.
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase1 contact = 11kohm
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase2 contact = 11kohm
Red (+ve) battery lead ----Phase3 contact = 11kohm
But for negative lead and phase lead shows one single value directly no goes up.
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase1 contact = 11kohm
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase2 contact = 11kohm
Black (-ve) battery lead ----Phase3 contact = 11kohm
Thanks for your input
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Disconnect the throttle and check that the controller is giving 5v between the red and black wires on the throttle connector. Then connect the throttle and check it while connected.
The results show that your MOSFETS are probably OK.
The results show that your MOSFETS are probably OK.
How I can thank you I have no word. It works like charm. Unplugging the cable and plugging back again to throttle wire solves all problem. Everything works fine. So what was wrong sensor and replacing it solves the problem!!
D
Deleted member 4366
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Another happy ending. I hope you get many more happy miles out of it.
Just for information, the controller does an initialisation procedure when you switch it on, during which it checks the throttle signal. It won't give any power until the signal goes below a threshold of about 1.3v, which is the normal zero throttle voltage. If your throttle is stuck a little bit open, which can happen if the stops are damaged, you won't get any power until you get the signal down by disconnecting, switch or whatever.
Just for information, the controller does an initialisation procedure when you switch it on, during which it checks the throttle signal. It won't give any power until the signal goes below a threshold of about 1.3v, which is the normal zero throttle voltage. If your throttle is stuck a little bit open, which can happen if the stops are damaged, you won't get any power until you get the signal down by disconnecting, switch or whatever.
Thanks for your excellent support. I have read this information somewhere before in the forum you have written. I can think now why shorting Blue signal wire with 5V doesn't work. I should disconnect the cable and reconnect again to test that feature. Anyway, it's working fine now.
Hello all, there are some really experienced people here - maybe someone can help me. My Cyclamatic PowerPlus runs fine for half a mile then all lights go out. I turn it off and back on and they all come back, but can only o a few yards. If allowed to call down for a while it will go the half mile again Have tried a friends battery - still the same.. Any suggestions? Many thanks, Alan
D
Deleted member 4366
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It must be one of three things:
1. Faulty Key switch. You have to take the 4 screws out of the top to remove it, so that you can inspect it. Check whether the two solder joints are actually fused to the metal pieces on the back of the switch. I've seen a few where the older just sits on it without actually being joined because the factory worker did it too fast for the metal to heat up and fuse.
2. Dirty contacts under the battery. Give them a scrape with something sharp if they look charred.
3 Loose connector of the battery wires to the controller. You have to take the side off the compartment under the battery. In there you will see the thick red and black battery wires that ome down from the contacts to the controller. There's bullet connectors on those wires, make sure that they grip properly.
1. Faulty Key switch. You have to take the 4 screws out of the top to remove it, so that you can inspect it. Check whether the two solder joints are actually fused to the metal pieces on the back of the switch. I've seen a few where the older just sits on it without actually being joined because the factory worker did it too fast for the metal to heat up and fuse.
2. Dirty contacts under the battery. Give them a scrape with something sharp if they look charred.
3 Loose connector of the battery wires to the controller. You have to take the side off the compartment under the battery. In there you will see the thick red and black battery wires that ome down from the contacts to the controller. There's bullet connectors on those wires, make sure that they grip properly.
