proteam bike ( cyclamatic) electric problem

[Deleted member 4366]

The throttle sensor is a SS49 hall sensor, which are very cheap. You can find them on Ebay. They' re pretty easy to replace if you can disnantle the throttle. They're just pushed into a slot, so you can pull the old one out and push in a new one. The legs break easily, so be careful not to bend them too many times when soldering the wires. They often double up the 0v wire to provide a ground for the LED battery indicators.

You can test without the throttle. The three wires to the sensor are 5v (normally red), 0v (normally black) and signal (can be any colour). Check that you have 5v between the red and black, then touch the red to the signal. The motor should immediately go full speed, so make sure that the back wheel is off the ground. Get someone to hold it if necessary.

 

[enamul4shimul]

Excellent man. I like this. I haven't tested yet. I was out in tuition. I will do shortly and update you. Thanks for your great help.

 

[pdarnett]

going to have a go at replacing the hall connectors, where can i buy them and what do i need to do to get inside the hub thanks

I'm only over in Bradford and have a Hub tester and many spares to go at if you need a hand.

 

[enamul4shimul]

Hi d8veh,
I have checked the cables. As you have said the GND wire of Throttle lead is common to sensor and LED panel. I found the sensor wire colours are Red(+5V), Black (0V) and Green (assumed signal). I have tested Red and Black while switch is ON; found +5V. However, when I connet the Red with Green wire (signal wire) nothing happened. Motor was dead as before.

What can I do next? I can see a Red LED is blinking in the controller through the side wall of the controller. I can't think what is wrong!!! Is the controller gone? Please help me to diagnose the fault. thanks in advance

 

[enamul4shimul]

Hi d8veh,

Here I put one picture of the throttle wires

and the

controller wiring. Can you please check is there any thing disconnected in the controller wiring. I have also put some question in the contoller picture for you.

Thanks,
Enamul

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The red like blinking with an even pattern shows that the controller is working properly. If it has a repeated pattern, say for blinks, then it indicates a fault.

Your problem is probably between the controller and motor. Check again all the connections to the five hall wires and the three phase wires. Also, check the connector behind the chainstay if you have one. Look at my picture earlier in the thread t see where it is.

If it doesn't work after that, you have to test the motor and the output from the controller for which an ebike tester, which pdarnett above has kindly offered to lend you. You can test the motor without one, but not the controller.

 

[pdarnett]

Sorry I meant cando, as he's up the road from me in Leeds! Having trouble keeping up with this thread!! But still happy to help!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi d8veh,

Here I put one picture of the throttle wires

and the

controller wiring. Can you please check is there any thing disconnected in the controller wiring. I have also put some question in the contoller picture for you.

Thanks,
Enamul

I can't see the photos on my android device. Can you give us a link to them. Can anyone see them?

 

[enamul4shimul]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/baracil7ahu5ydi/Throttle_connection.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/meec9bl12g5tapb/wire_connection.jpg?dl=0

Please let me know if you can't still see.

 

[enamul4shimul]

The red like blinking with an even pattern shows that the controller is working properly. If it has a repeated pattern, say for blinks, then it indicates a fault.

The Red Led is running like blinking (on/off every 0.5 sec) and while key rotates to turn off the system, blinks more fast before turning off.

Your problem is probably between the controller and motor. Check again all the connections to the five hall wires and the three phase wires. Also, check the connector behind the chainstay if you have one. Look at my picture earlier in the thread t see where it is.

I will check again hall sensors five wires and three phase wires. I have the connector behind the chainstay in my bike. I have tried as first attempt to push the connector from both ways to see is there anything wrong with that. But no good luck!!

You can test the motor without one, but not the controller.

What is the best way to confirm the motor is working?

Sorry I meant cando, as he's up the road from me in Leeds! Having trouble keeping up with this thread!! But still happy to help!

Thanks. I think I need to do extensive testing of the motor/controller. I am based on Nottingham, looks like you are from Bradford.

 

[enamul4shimul]

I'm only over in Bradford and have a Hub tester and many spares to go at if you need a hand.

Thanks man, you mean I can have one to test my one. That will be great. Please let me know how to get that.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The controller blinking shows no problem.

The wires are not that easy to follow in the photo. They look correct. The white wires are the speed limit. You can adjust it by turning the adjuster or get maximum by disconnecting one. I think the spare yellow wire is probably a battery voltage one for an accessory. I can't trace it from the photos.

Make sure that the phase wire bullet connectors get a good grip. Pull them apart and crimp them down a bit before reconnecting.

Test again with the brake connectors disconnected to eliminate them as a possible cause.

 

[enamul4shimul]

The white wires are the speed limit. You can adjust it by turning the adjuster or get maximum by disconnecting one.

Do you mean the white wire with golden connector and tuner like component? This is open not connected to anything.

Make sure that the phase wire bullet connectors get a good grip. Pull them apart and crimp them down a bit before reconnecting.

I will do that and let you know if improves.

Test again with the brake connectors disconnected to eliminate them as a possible cause.

That's a good idea I will test that.

Can you please say what is the best way to confirm the motor is working?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Three tests:

Check each phase wire to ground - should be open.

Set your meter to 20v AC. For each pair of phase wires, spin the wheel backwards. You should see a small voltage generated.

Check the hall sensor function with the power on and the connection made. There should be 5v between the red and black wires. Check each of the other three to ground. They should pulse on and off when you rotate the motor backwards.

If your white wires with adjuster are not connected, there is no speed restriction.

 

[enamul4shimul]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. My wife and son both sick, I am struggling to help them. BTW, I have tested all three tests.

Check each phase wire to ground - should be open.

Yes, they are open.

Set your meter to 20v AC. For each pair of phase wires, spin the wheel backwards. You should see a small voltage generated.

Yes, each pair produces small ac volt on spinning wheel.

Check the hall sensor function with the power on and the connection made. There should be 5v between the red and black wires. Check each of the other three to ground. They should pulse on and off when you rotate the motor backwards.

Yes, in ON condition, 5V I found between red and black. Other three wires pulse between 0 to +5V while I rotate the back wheel slowly.

In summary, I can say my motor is OK; isn't it?

 

[enamul4shimul]

Make sure that the phase wire bullet connectors get a good grip. Pull them apart and crimp them down a bit before reconnecting.

I did that but no progress.

Test again with the brake connectors disconnected to eliminate them as a possible cause.

Tested too. Motor doesn't run.

The red like blinking with an even pattern shows that the controller is working properly. If it has a repeated pattern, say for blinks, then it indicates a fault.

The Red Led is running like blinking (on/off every 0.5 sec) and while key rotates to turn off the system, blinks more fast before turning off.

The controller blinking shows no problem.

I am not quite clear on this, you said if it blinks then it's a fault but my one does look like blinking not an even pattern. Or I don't understand what you meant by even pattern. Can you please explain.

What is the easiest way to test Controller? I can manage Oscilloscope as I works in University of Nottingham. If the motor is OK and battery connection is OK what could be a problem stopping the motor to run.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The contrtoller should blink continuously with equal on and off times. When there's a fault, it changes to an unequal pattern like a small pause after three or four blinks.

Your motor is definitely OK.

You now need to test what's coming out of the controller, which is what you need the ebike tester for.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You could try testing your controller with your oscilloscope. There's a startup sequence when it receives a throttle signal. If the startup fails, the controller stops. You should see some 5v pulses on the the phase wires. You can see them on an ebike tester, but not with a normal meter, I guess because they go in both directions. They'll be PWM at battery voltage. You don't need to worry about the PWM, just look for the pulse envelope.

What could be wrong with your controller?
- blown FET, but you can normally hear/ feel a bit of clickinging or buzzing from the motor each time it tries to start.
- output interrupted between the controller and motor. Did you push that chainstay connector together really hard. It takes a lot of effort to get it right in. There's a guide-line that it has to reach. If you tested your motor at the controller end, that connector and the wires must be OK to get positive test results.
- blown cpu if one of the throttle wires touches the 24v battery wire for the LED indicator lights, which is nearby. Often, that takes out the 5v regulator too, but yours is OK.
- miscellaneous random electronics failure or bad joint on the pcb. These sort of failures are less likely, but anything can happen.

One last thing to try would be to follow the throttle signal wire onto the pcb, then apply your 5v directly to the pad to eliminate any problem with the wire.

 

[enamul4shimul]

The contrtoller should blink continuously with equal on and off times. When there's a fault, it changes to an unequal pattern like a small pause after three or four blinks.

Your motor is definitely OK.

Thank you very much. That's a very good news for me.

What could be wrong with your controller?
- blown FET, but you can normally hear/ feel a bit of clickinging or buzzing from the motor each time it tries to start.

I have heard the sound of motor trying to start when I rotate the key. This doesn't happen always but couple of times at the beginning of key rotation.

- output interrupted between the controller and motor. Did you push that chainstay connector together really hard. It takes a lot of effort to get it right in. There's a guide-line that it has to reach. If you tested your motor at the controller end, that connector and the wires must be OK to get positive test results.

I did try to push but not sure how hard I have pushed and whether it reached the guide-line or not. I have tested motor at controller end obviously so the connector is ok.

One last thing to try would be to follow the throttle signal wire onto the pcb, then apply your 5v directly to the pad to eliminate any problem with the wire.

I have ordered one SS49 which should arrive shortly. I will try that to see whether I get hall sensor voltage after soldering that or not. I will check pcb too. I found same controller in £38 in ebay. If I atleast can confirm the faulty one is controller; I could replace that.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One last thing. Check your battery voltage on the controller connector while connected and while you try and run the motor. It needs to be above say 23v.