D
Well here it in all it's glory, works a treat only just went up the hill to try it out and all is fine, and one more thing I don't think it's worth messing about with the breaks so I won't bother 
I have just got back from a really nice 25 mile ride about half on road and half off. I was on full assist mode and had lots of hills in my way so pedalling fairly hard to maintain an average speed of around 16 mph according to maverick app.
I finally got a code 6 ( low voltage? The manual states a code 39!) for the last half mile or so and this is the first time I've seen this, so I guess I must have been pushing the oxydrive quite hard blasting along the forest tracks. I will say that the battery was not fully topped up and although I had all bars lit up at the beginning of the ride, toward the end I was soon down to two then one and code 6.
I normally use level 3 assist and can go 30 miles with plenty of juice left at the end of a ride.
I finally got a code 6 ( low voltage? The manual states a code 39!) for the last half mile or so and this is the first time I've seen this, so I guess I must have been pushing the oxydrive quite hard blasting along the forest tracks. I will say that the battery was not fully topped up and although I had all bars lit up at the beginning of the ride, toward the end I was soon down to two then one and code 6.
I normally use level 3 assist and can go 30 miles with plenty of juice left at the end of a ride.
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Got a few jobs done last night. Found that the supporting legs on the back of my Shimano XT 9 speed cassette were fouling on the motor casing. It couldnt be spaced out away from the hub because then the 9th ring and lock ring would not sit fully home. Just had to dremmel the legs a couple of mm and nows its fine.
After grinding - you can see how tight it is but theres clearance on all 4 legs when fully assembled:
Disc went on fine, just needed minor caliper realignment. Remember to remove the plastic spacer fitted to the motor as supplied. I also used the supplied bolts as they were quite a bit shorter than my old ones and I didnt want to risk thread depth issues.
I found I had to file my drop outs slightly. The wheel went in and probably would have worked OK but did not sit in far enough for my liking. I wanted the axle to meet the top of the dropouts but they we off by a couple of mm. Just used a round file near the endstops and now the axle butts right up and the anti rotation washers are well seated. No issues on chainstay width with my frame thankfully. Only thing I noted was that the chain runs VERY close to the derailleur hanger, and its a bit of a pain that the axle nuts are an odd size. Wheel all fitted:
Next moved on to the LCD and throttle. Got them both in a nice location but its clear that I will need to cut and extend the throttle wire. I knew my bars were wide but didn't think they were that wide! I need a good few inches - see my left index finger compared to the plug sitting on my old speedo:
Thats it for now, will update as and when I do bits and pieces
After grinding - you can see how tight it is but theres clearance on all 4 legs when fully assembled:
Disc went on fine, just needed minor caliper realignment. Remember to remove the plastic spacer fitted to the motor as supplied. I also used the supplied bolts as they were quite a bit shorter than my old ones and I didnt want to risk thread depth issues.
I found I had to file my drop outs slightly. The wheel went in and probably would have worked OK but did not sit in far enough for my liking. I wanted the axle to meet the top of the dropouts but they we off by a couple of mm. Just used a round file near the endstops and now the axle butts right up and the anti rotation washers are well seated. No issues on chainstay width with my frame thankfully. Only thing I noted was that the chain runs VERY close to the derailleur hanger, and its a bit of a pain that the axle nuts are an odd size. Wheel all fitted:
Next moved on to the LCD and throttle. Got them both in a nice location but its clear that I will need to cut and extend the throttle wire. I knew my bars were wide but didn't think they were that wide! I need a good few inches - see my left index finger compared to the plug sitting on my old speedo:
Thats it for now, will update as and when I do bits and pieces
For neatness, I'd be having the throttle wire exiting under the gear change/brake leaver assembly not over, and would probably use something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321636890637?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=510530734302&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT to mount the display console in the centre.
I had to keep the plastic spacer in place, there was no way to line up the disk with the calliper if I left it off
I have kept all my thumb throttles on the left saves any need for extending wiring also makes rh turns easier as I can signal and use the throttle one handed If I need to.
Cube AMS BBS set up
Messy Norco BBS old Set up
Tidier Norco BPM set up
Cube AMS BBS set up
Messy Norco BBS old Set up
Tidier Norco BPM set up
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I also mounted my display in the centre of my handlebars negating the need to extend the throttle cable. I prefer the throttle on right and have my brake cut off on the left (to rear brake).
I used a handlebar t-bar extender, only around £10 form eBay.
I used a handlebar t-bar extender, only around £10 form eBay.
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There has been a lot of confusions about fitting PAS sensors as it the most difficult part when installing the kit. So far we had about 3 different PAS sensors and obviously depending on the type of bike some are better one type of bike and some on the other. From around September we will make it clearer which PAS sensor to choose as there will be option to choose the one most suitable incl RH square taper, LH square taper, BigStone BB type and news the Hollowtech, ISIS and Octalink compatible. Kits will be coming with standard LH square taper and other types will be available for surcharge of £5 if purchased with the kit.
All the best
Andrew
All the best
Andrew
Hi Andrew
Steve Ellis here.
I had the CST 11Am kit from you last week and I'm well happy with it and in the kit I had the easy fix disk and sensor that you fit on the left, can you tell me if you do a disk and sensor that I can put on the cog side?,
And can you tell me what the USB socket is for on the battery?
Thanks
Steve
Steve Ellis here.
I had the CST 11Am kit from you last week and I'm well happy with it and in the kit I had the easy fix disk and sensor that you fit on the left, can you tell me if you do a disk and sensor that I can put on the cog side?,
And can you tell me what the USB socket is for on the battery?
Thanks
Steve
The throttle cant really go under the lever as the combined shifter is relatively bulky and so the throttle has to be rotated to such an angle that the thumb piece ends up pointing to the sky. It might look a bit neater but not nearly as practical.
I wanted the LCD to be near my hand so it was easier to adjust power levels with my thumb without removing my hand from the bar. Besides I was planning to get a phone mount for the centre (old speedo will be removed) to use mapping apps. Extending 3 wires isnt a big issue.
Steve, maybe you had to use the plastic disc spacer due to your chainstay width? Not sure really. I didnt actually try using it on mine but I only had to align my caliper half a mill or so.
Fair point that, but myself coming from 25 years of riding motorbikes and 5 years of jetskis I instinctively associate a throttle with my right hand!
How is your install going?
Today was the first time I went any distance, about 6 miles, now this may not be a lot to some but its a fair old way for me, and all I can say is the kit is just great.
Today was the first time I went any distance, about 6 miles, now this may not be a lot to some but its a fair old way for me, and all I can say is the kit is just great.
I was riding my CST kit today and it went from 2 bars of battery to 1 bar and then cut out and displayed an error code 6. Is this normal?
I thought the battery level would go all the way down to 0.
I thought the battery level would go all the way down to 0.
D
Deleted member 4366
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D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
There's often a damping factor in there so your battery indicator doesn't go up and down with the load. If you make it go down wuickly, it probably can't keep up. You can adjust the damping in a Kunteng controller from zero to so much that it doesn't change. I'm not sure how it works with a Lishui one.
Mine is the same so how many miles did you get out of it and the power assist levels makes a difference. My use is/was off road with some road to get to these tracks and get 25-30 miles range. once you have been out a few times you will realise what you can manage and how far to go with the system.
Ah that's good. Thanks for the info. I read the new manual on the Oxydrive website and it said the battery warning on the display would go to zero then flash when low. I now know it doesn't.
As far as distance goes, I didn't get very far as my battery wasn't charging so I set off probably half charged or even less and ran out after 10 miles on level 5.
As far as distance goes, I didn't get very far as my battery wasn't charging so I set off probably half charged or even less and ran out after 10 miles on level 5.
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