nut size

[guerney]

Another mistake is forgetting to take out the crank bolt before using the tool.
(I've made both those mistakes in my time.)

Even if you damage the thread of the tool rendering it mostly useless, part of that tool is useful to keep for bashing the BB axle against: make a hole in a plank of wood the same size as the widest end of the tool, bash it into the hole and stand it vertically on the floor, situate the BB axle on the thinner end, and hammer the (horizontal) bike frame until the stuck/bonded by corrosion BB comes out - "Hammer against a butt", was great tip from my zillion year old local bike shop Yoda. Took ages to hammer the sucker out of my Dahon Helios to install the BBS01B. Avoid hammering too hard, and hammer around and as close as possible to the stuck BB. Mallet would have been safer, but I didn't have one. Safer overall to take it to a bike shop - mine was too busy during the start of the pandemic, couldn't do it because neglected bikes suddenly being put back into service and needing repairs was legion, hence the advice conveyed by telephone.

 

[saneagle]

No the bike will be upside down when i do it. so what you saying then when unscrewing the BB nuts. both bb nuts are anticlockwise as my front wheel will be to my right when i do non chain side. and the chain side front wheel will be to my left. or have i got that completely wrong.

Just imagine that your bike is the normal way up and you have your spanner or tube pointing upwards. You have to push it to the front of the bike on each side. Obviously, if you have your bike inverted and the spanner pointing towards the sky, you have to push it to the back of the bike.

I find it easiest to have the bike the normal way up and the spanner/tube pointing forward, then I stand on the spanner while holding the bike by the handlebars with the brakes on to keep it still.

 

[billyboya]

Just imagine that your bike is the normal way up and you have your spanner or tube pointing upwards. You have to push it to the front of the bike on each side. Obviously, if you have your bike inverted and the spanner pointing towards the sky, you have to push it to the back of the bike.

I find it easiest to have the bike the normal way up and the spanner/tube pointing forward, then I stand on the spanner while holding the bike by the handlebars with the brakes on to keep it still.

so if I did bike upside down, non chain side will be anti-clockwise and chain side clockwise

 

[saneagle]

so if I did bike upside down, non chain side will be anti-clockwise and chain side clockwise

That's too difficult for me and too early in the day. Can someone work it out for him? I always struggled with Flemming's left hand rule!

Fleming’s left hand rule - Higher - Electromagnets - AQA - GCSE Physics (Single Science) Revision - AQA - BBC Bitesize

Learn about and revise electromagnetism, the motor effect and its applications in motors and loudspeakers with GCSE Bitesize Physics.

www.bbc.co.uk

 

[sjpt]

Apologies ~~~ this is about crank removal, not about BB removal as in the original post. Crossed threads in my lack of brain.

The crank bolts and the threads on the cranks to take the puller are all standard clockwise to screw in, anticlockwise to unscrew. The inside of the puller is standard threaded too.
So it's

• anticlockwise to unscrew the protection cap (if any)
• anticlockwise to unscrew the crank bolt,
• anticlockwise to unscrew the centre of the puller
• clockwise to screw the puller into the crank
• clockwise to screw the centre of the puller and pull the crank

The only reverse threaded thing around is the left pedal, but you don't need to touch that.

It doesn't make any difference whether the bike is upside down or not, clockwise and anticlockwise stay the same.

If you are extremely perverse and stand on the left side of the bike and reach over the bike to pull the right crank (or right side for the left crank) that will reverse your perspective of clockwise/anticlockwise.

If you are extremely perverse and stand on your head to pull the crank this will not change the clockwise/anticlockwise (unless you are on the wrong side of the bike as well).

 

[Waspy]

The crank bolts and the threads on the cranks to take the puller are all standard clockwise to screw in, anticlockwise to unscrew. The inside of the puller is standard threaded too.
So it's

• anticlockwise to unscrew the protection cap (if any)
• anticlockwise to unscrew the crank bolt,
• anticlockwise to unscrew the centre of the puller
• clockwise to screw the puller into the crank
• clockwise to screw the centre of the puller and pull the crank

The only reverse threaded thing around is the left pedal, but you don't need to touch that.

It doesn't make any difference whether the bike is upside down or not, clockwise and anticlockwise stay the same.

If you are extremely perverse and stand on the left side of the bike and reach over the bike to pull the right crank (or right side for the left crank) that will reverse your perspective of clockwise/anticlockwise.

If you are extremely perverse and stand on your head to pull the crank this will not change the clockwise/anticlockwise (unless you are on the wrong side of the bike as well).

I'm confused, I thought the OP was asking about BB removal?

In the first post in this thread he posted a picture of a BB removal tool, but couldn't figure out what size adjustable spanner to use with it LOL.

OP, seriously mate just watch some Youtube videos.

 

[sjpt]

I'm confused, I thought the OP was asking about BB removal?

You are right. It is me that was really confused.

For some reason I got crank removal into my head at the start and it just stuck. I think I got mixed up with another thread. Crossed threads in too many ways.

 

[billyboya]

That's too difficult for me and too early in the day. Can someone work it out for him? I always struggled with Flemming's left hand rule!

Fleming’s left hand rule - Higher - Electromagnets - AQA - GCSE Physics (Single Science) Revision - AQA - BBC Bitesize

Learn about and revise electromagnetism, the motor effect and its applications in motors and loudspeakers with GCSE Bitesize Physics.

www.bbc.co.uk

LOL sorry mate, But no way can I remove the BB when bike is right way up, as I dont have a bike stand, so I have to turn bike upside down. now you stated that both nuts on BB go towards front wheel, so take the left side of bike in a standing position like you said towards front wheel will be anticlockwise. to unscrew, and upside down its still anticlockwise Yes/No now the right side chain side normal standing upright position towards from wheel to unscrew will be clockwise Yes/No . and if bike was upside down chain side is still clockwise Yes/No sorry to be a pain, but I am just getting stuff in my head ready for once ive measured BB once i have removed chain cogs which was very tight but will try again

 

[saneagle]

I'll make it easy. This is for inverted bike. Point the spanner towards the back wheel and push it towards the ground. That's the same on both sides.

If there's no clearance for the spanner to do that, point it upwards (towards the ceiling) and push it backwards. The only problem is that the whole bike will go backwards, so start with the back wheel against a wall.

 

[Waspy]

once i have removed chain cogs which was very tight but will try again

When you say 'chain cogs' do you mean the 3 chainrings, next to the pedals?

If so and you are using the crank puller tool correctly (and double check you are), then you may need leverage. I once had a bike I had to use a length of scaffolding pole to give me enough leverage.

Where I'm getting confused, is this thread seems to keep switching from cranks to BB. But then, I'm easily confused

 

[billyboya]

I'll make it easy. This is for inverted bike. Point the spanner towards the back wheel and push it towards the ground. That's the same on both sides.

If there's no clearance for the spanner to do that, point it upwards (towards the ceiling) and push it backwards. The only problem is that the whole bike will go backwards, so start with the back wheel against a wall.

Yes its what I said then non chain side anticlockwise, chain side is clockwise as both pointing to back wheel

 

[billyboya]

When you say 'chain cogs' do you mean the 3 chainrings, next to the pedals?

If so and you are using the crank puller tool correctly (and double check you are), then you may need leverage. I once had a bike I had to use a length of scaffolding pole to give me enough leverage.

Where I'm getting confused, is this thread seems to keep switching from cranks to BB. But then, I'm easily confused

Yes sorry I did start post about BB tool. But I also had a problem removing the chain side 3 chainrings. as very tight on BB spindle I was going to take it to a shop, But now decided to try again. like saneagle said. I will spray a lot of WD40 on BB spindle. and keep trying to remove the 3 chain rings. my bike is very similier to this one except its not showing the controller box which is attached to seat downtube

 

[Waspy]

So, just to make extra sure. The bolt holding that crank/chainrings on undoes anti-clockwise.

The only two places you will find left-hand threads is the left pedal and the chain-side bottom bracket .

By all means squirt some WD40 or whatever on there. But get some leverage and just gently rock that bolt anti-clockwise a few millimeters until you feel it give.

 

[saneagle]

Yes sorry I did start post about BB tool. But I also had a problem removing the chain side 3 chainrings. as very tight on BB spindle I was going to take it to a shop, But now decided to try again. like saneagle said. I will spray a lot of WD40 on BB spindle. and keep trying to remove the 3 chain rings. my bike is very similier to this one except its not showing the controller box which is attached to seat downtube

View attachment 60309

For the chainring:
Don't waste your WD40. And if you've already used it or any oil, make sure that you clean it all off with spirit or petrol before re-assembling, otherwise your crank will keep coming loose.

If it's really stuck, try some heat from a blow gun around the tool.

 

[billyboya]

For the chainring:
Don't waste your WD40. And if you've already used it or any oil, make sure that you clean it all off with spirit or petrol before re-assembling, otherwise your crank will keep coming loose.

If it's really stuck, try some heat from a blow gun around the tool.

I do have a blow gun actuially never thought about that. But its like i said before getting the time to do anything, probabaly sundays is best

 

[chris_n]

Does no one know that the best way to break a taper is with a shock load. Assemble the crank puller as advised but instead of pulling it with an ever longer lever just tighten it well with a correctly sized spanner then give the end of the tool a firm tap with a hammer, tighten the tool a bit more and tap it firmly again. This is far better and , less likely to cause damage to threads etc than excessive leverage (says someone who has used explosives to provide the required shock load when all of the industrial size pullers have bent beyond usefulness in a previous underground life)
NB this is in reference to removing the crank arm not the BB.

 

[esuark]

I can agree, shock load. When long ago removing the rear hub from a metro car I tightened up the extractor gave it a tap and the whole lot shot across the garage hitting the wall. Again at work trying to separate a large fiber glass mould and component all attempts to separate with wedges failing a colleague came along lifted one side dropped it and it sprung apart.

 

[billyboya]

I give up Ive tried to get chain cog side pedal etc off the BB spindle but it seems its jammed on so tight just cant get it off. I even tried heating up spindle, but thats a bit awkward. even had a job trying to screw in this tool to remove the pedal arm. its ok on non chain side, but dont seem to fit chain side pedal arm much so now i am gonna take it to a bike shop as at least they would do a better job. mind you really my only big problem was the left pedal arm didnt seem to tighten up good with the bolt.

 

[thelarkbox]

An old toothbrush may help clean out the threads of the tool and crank arm to perhaps enable a better fit when oiled??

Its the crankarm arm not so much the spindle you want to heat up to expand.. If you can get the tool to fit? fit it in place to protect the spindle/axle and use a heat gun to heat up the crank arm or a hair dryer tho that will take longer..

you may want to try hanging a wet cloth off the other exposed axle end to help keep it cool too?

 

[chris_n]

Looks like the tool has been cross threaded to me.