October 18, 20241 yr I purchased this bottom bracket tool, but dont seem to have a spanner or socket bit to fit in the end. would anyone here know what size spanner or socket male end to fit in end of it
October 18, 20241 yr Do you have one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738 Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly. Edited October 18, 20241 yr by guerney
October 18, 20241 yr Author Do you have one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738 Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly. actually Yes I have one of those somewhere dam never thought about using a Digital Vernier Caliper its because I have so many tools you tend to forget what you do have thanks for help
October 18, 20241 yr Author Do you have one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195640752738 Had a similar problem recently with a suspension seatpost, which needed spring tension adjustment via a hexagonal socket at the botton - measured internal diameter as 12mm, which I don't have... so I shoved in the business end of a pair of flat nosed pliers to turn it, fitted perfectly. Hi again I forgot to ask what’s the name of the tool what fits in the female square end it’s 13mm and the nut size is for a 24mm spanner but think it’s best to have a socket bit
October 18, 20241 yr Author I used an adjustable spanner for that BB tool. ok as just thought maybe a socket to fit that square female end would be better I will check if I have an adjustable spanner I probably have just dam finding things it’s probably right in front of me but can I never find stuff need to sort out my tools lol it’s always the same when you want something takes forever to find it lol
October 18, 20241 yr The square drive will be 1/2" by the look of it Use any 1/2 " drive tool from a standard socket set ie a ratchet or Tbar.. amazon link as an example. Edited October 18, 20241 yr by thelarkbox
October 18, 20241 yr ok as just thought maybe a socket to fit that square female end would be better I will check if I have an adjustable spanner I probably have just dam finding things it’s probably right in front of me but can I never find stuff need to sort out my tools lol it’s always the same when you want something takes forever to find it lol If holding the tool straight pressing with my hand while turning the adjustable spanner didn't hold the BB tool straight enough, I planned to press a block of wood against it instead to apply more pressure, but that wasn't needed.
October 20, 20241 yr Author The square drive will be 1/2" by the look of it Use any 1/2 " drive tool from a standard socket set ie a ratchet or Tbar.. amazon link as an example. Amazon charges £4.99 postage so makes the socket set £24.99 + £4.99 + = £29.98 I saw the same socket set 12in on Ebay for Just £25.99 free postage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185735215542?_skw=Draper+12+Piece+1%2F2-Inch+Square+Drive+Metric+Socket+and+Ratchet+Set+-+DIY+Home+Workshop+Professional+%26+Car+Ki&epid=28025068213&itmmeta=01JAMMA6Z8FVA8R3NRJP7DQEQS&hash=item2b3eae79b6:g:cYcAAOSwesdjwGZ~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABUHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmB71NeOsxRrOeNQOiew%2Fdd8AM%2Bt7GTV7%2Fh5x9SJKAH969mYAWMCNIN0U4LQKiJQ%2BHHtrH6ziHNuvUpGqfOtiUqOjGpvRVnwvNQIJs1zCMSJY%2FWu5oQEXM1yh3sbOOTuE8MADEBphg01e9Btus7aiGv5m%2BG%2BIQrC1X19iAyXYDn11E679AHBae7U1oT9nHydGGeAolck2qG01h1BG0QNiM8X8ZeE42%2FsyMMX0VAyS5oR7Uv1%2FtdGh1u4QIgXJcItsWsWQxKbtSu6VqJiFlgVLM5Ww5VUCNOazEfF1s1GYIm1iGHwGEAyRQ6Cfxge7U2zy6zu0o32LbgGk7zZDcXHVScFot%2FelGf1TfiHJUVOTbRYhUaJI5drYkuulrvgCG%2FAXD55IeJV9u33OwiUJRR0GHlb%2BrkTJXjB2ava%2BkZNcXThg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR97vqJTVZA
October 20, 20241 yr Author Well Ive decided to forget about doing the bottom bracket myself, as no way can i remove the chain side cogs. they seem to be on the spindle so tight. I gave up as didnt want to damage the chain cogs. I did try hitting it with a hammer but it wont budge. so I am taking bike to a repair shop. as they will do a better job
October 20, 20241 yr The bike shop is bound to have a suitably sized gear puller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?kw=large%20gear%20puller&toolid=20004
October 20, 20241 yr Author The bike shop is bound to have a suitably sized gear puller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?kw=large%20gear%20puller&toolid=20004 Yeah they should have, But its very hard to find a bike shop to do stuff, as a lot say they dont touch electric bikes even though, its nothing to do with electrc part a lot of bike shops will lose out, as most jobs are to do with non electric. just seems a bit silly to me. I went to 1 bike shop they said did you buy the bike from them, if not they dont touch them.
October 20, 20241 yr Yeah they should have, But its very hard to find a bike shop to do stuff, as a lot say they dont touch electric bikes even though, its nothing to do with electrc part a lot of bike shops will lose out, as most jobs are to do with non electric. just seems a bit silly to me. I went to 1 bike shop they said did you buy the bike from them, if not they dont touch them. The bike shop is only going to do what you can do yourself, but they'll charge you for it. This is what to do: screw the centre piece of the tool right back out of the way; screw in the tool as far as it will go with a spanner until it's tight. don't over-tighten it; screw in the centre piece until it's tight; whatever spanner of T-bar you use to turn the tool, put a piece of pipe over it so that you get some decent leverage; push down hard on the pipe or lever to make the tool turn. These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip. It's the bottom brackets themselves that can be hard to get out, but all you need is enough leverage with a long pipe. Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force.
October 21, 20241 yr Author The bike shop is only going to do what you can do yourself, but they'll charge you for it. This is what to do: screw the centre piece of the tool right back out of the way; screw in the tool as far as it will go with a spanner until it's tight. don't over-tighten it; screw in the centre piece until it's tight; whatever spanner of T-bar you use to turn the tool, put a piece of pipe over it so that you get some decent leverage; push down hard on the pipe or lever to make the tool turn. These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip. It's the bottom brackets themselves that can be hard to get out, but all you need is enough leverage with a long pipe. Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force. When you say tool I take it you mean this https://ibb.co/K9TD0B5 Also, you need to use a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB, otherwise it tries to slip out every time you apply enough force. I am a bit confused with what you said above about a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB where do you fit those then as I am lost now I may try doing it again
October 21, 20241 yr When you say tool I take it you mean this https://ibb.co/K9TD0B5 I am a bit confused with what you said above about a bolt and some washers to hold the BB tool into the BB where do you fit those then as I am lost now I may try doing it again In my description, the bit I refer to as the centre piece is the silver bit. If you're unsure, screw it right out before screwing in and tightening the black bit. When you use the BB tool, it tends to keep falling out, so you can use a bolt to hold it in if your pedal arm is held on with a bolt rather than a nut. Sometimes you can use the pedal arm bolt with a washer, but it depends on the relative lengths of all the parts. The bolt is only to hold the tool in, which leaves you two hands to concentrate on turning it, otherwise you need one hand to hold the tool in while you turn it. All this will make more sense when you try to use the BB tool.
October 21, 20241 yr Author In my description, the bit I refer to as the centre piece is the silver bit. If you're unsure, screw it right out before screwing in and tightening the black bit. When you use the BB tool, it tends to keep falling out, so you can use a bolt to hold it in if your pedal arm is held on with a bolt rather than a nut. Sometimes you can use the pedal arm bolt with a washer, but it depends on the relative lengths of all the parts. The bolt is only to hold the tool in, which leaves you two hands to concentrate on turning it, otherwise you need one hand to hold the tool in while you turn it. All this will make more sense when you try to use the BB tool. Yeah I understood the 1st bit to make sure that silver part is all way unscrewed. and i think what you man about BB tool is to make sure you use maybe a socket in end to hold it. I think basicly that cog wheel side where chain goes needed a few squirts of WD40 to loosen it more. I wont need to do the BB just yet, as will need to measure the length with a piece of card as you stated above, then will come back here to show you so then get a longer BB
October 21, 20241 yr Fwiw i used an adjustable wrench (stilson pipe style) and a length of steel tube as a lever extension while using a stud nut and washer to retain the tool in place.. Then i remembered its a reverse thread!!
October 21, 20241 yr Fwiw i used an adjustable wrench (stilson pipe style) and a length of steel tube as a lever extension while using a stud nut and washer to retain the tool in place.. Then i remembered its a reverse thread!! The way to remember is that the spanner/bar always goes forward, no matter which side you're on, assuming that your bike is sitting on the ground.
October 21, 20241 yr These square tapers are never so tight that you can't get them off with the tool. The mistake most people make is screwing in the tool without backing off the centre piece, so it doesn't go far enough in, then, when they try to pull the crank off, the threads strip. Another mistake is forgetting to take out the crank bolt before using the tool. (I've made both those mistakes in my time.)
October 21, 20241 yr Author The way to remember is that the spanner/bar always goes forward, no matter which side you're on, assuming that your bike is sitting on the ground. No the bike will be upside down when i do it. so what you saying then when unscrewing the BB nuts. both bb nuts are anticlockwise as my front wheel will be to my right when i do non chain side. and the chain side front wheel will be to my left. or have i got that completely wrong.
October 21, 20241 yr Another mistake is forgetting to take out the crank bolt before using the tool. (I've made both those mistakes in my time.) Even if you damage the thread of the tool rendering it mostly useless, part of that tool is useful to keep for bashing the BB axle against: make a hole in a plank of wood the same size as the widest end of the tool, bash it into the hole and stand it vertically on the floor, situate the BB axle on the thinner end, and hammer the (horizontal) bike frame until the stuck/bonded by corrosion BB comes out - "Hammer against a butt", was great tip from my zillion year old local bike shop Yoda. Took ages to hammer the sucker out of my Dahon Helios to install the BBS01B. Avoid hammering too hard, and hammer around and as close as possible to the stuck BB. Mallet would have been safer, but I didn't have one. Safer overall to take it to a bike shop - mine was too busy during the start of the pandemic, couldn't do it because neglected bikes suddenly being put back into service and needing repairs was legion, hence the advice conveyed by telephone. Edited October 21, 20241 yr by guerney
October 21, 20241 yr No the bike will be upside down when i do it. so what you saying then when unscrewing the BB nuts. both bb nuts are anticlockwise as my front wheel will be to my right when i do non chain side. and the chain side front wheel will be to my left. or have i got that completely wrong. Just imagine that your bike is the normal way up and you have your spanner or tube pointing upwards. You have to push it to the front of the bike on each side. Obviously, if you have your bike inverted and the spanner pointing towards the sky, you have to push it to the back of the bike. I find it easiest to have the bike the normal way up and the spanner/tube pointing forward, then I stand on the spanner while holding the bike by the handlebars with the brakes on to keep it still.
October 22, 20241 yr Author Just imagine that your bike is the normal way up and you have your spanner or tube pointing upwards. You have to push it to the front of the bike on each side. Obviously, if you have your bike inverted and the spanner pointing towards the sky, you have to push it to the back of the bike. I find it easiest to have the bike the normal way up and the spanner/tube pointing forward, then I stand on the spanner while holding the bike by the handlebars with the brakes on to keep it still. so if I did bike upside down, non chain side will be anti-clockwise and chain side clockwise
October 22, 20241 yr so if I did bike upside down, non chain side will be anti-clockwise and chain side clockwise That's too difficult for me and too early in the day. Can someone work it out for him? I always struggled with Flemming's left hand rule! https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/zc3dxfr/revision/3
October 22, 20241 yr Apologies ~~~ this is about crank removal, not about BB removal as in the original post. Crossed threads in my lack of brain. The crank bolts and the threads on the cranks to take the puller are all standard clockwise to screw in, anticlockwise to unscrew. The inside of the puller is standard threaded too. So it's anticlockwise to unscrew the protection cap (if any) anticlockwise to unscrew the crank bolt, anticlockwise to unscrew the centre of the puller clockwise to screw the puller into the crank clockwise to screw the centre of the puller and pull the crank The only reverse threaded thing around is the left pedal, but you don't need to touch that. It doesn't make any difference whether the bike is upside down or not, clockwise and anticlockwise stay the same. If you are extremely perverse and stand on the left side of the bike and reach over the bike to pull the right crank (or right side for the left crank) that will reverse your perspective of clockwise/anticlockwise. If you are extremely perverse and stand on your head to pull the crank this will not change the clockwise/anticlockwise (unless you are on the wrong side of the bike as well). Edited October 22, 20241 yr by sjpt
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