Not sure if this is in the right section

matthewslack

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 26, 2021
2,356
1,592
When you say 36V 'on the red and black to the motor' is that really what you mean? The only red and black in the actual cable that connects to the motor are small wires to power the hall sensors, and the red should be 5V.

Hence the confusion. Be precise!
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
I will double check tonight on all wires. And why would I be telling porkies I want the bloody bike to work. You could say maybe just double check your numbers but not a liar.
I don't know why you would, but what I do know is that it's virtually impossible to get 36v on that wire. Do the tests, starting with the 5v.

In your first post, you said that you had determined that the controller was faulty. Can you explain how you came to that conclusion?
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
I will take some more piccys tonight but I'm sure the red and black going to the rear of the bike were 36v or something along those lines I will put a picture of the multimeter connected to the red and black with the display and power on.

Many thanks

Craig




62507
I don't know why you would, but what I do know is that it's virtually impossible to get 36v on that wire. Do the tests, starting with the 5v.

In your first post, you said that you had determined that the controller was faulty. Can you explain how you came to that conclusion?

The only reason why I said that is i am a member of another group I put some pictures before joining this group as didn't know about it. And asked for info and 1 person said I can see your module and it's blown.

That's the only reason

Craig
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
I will take some more piccys tonight but I'm sure the red and black going to the rear of the bike were 36v or something along those lines I will put a picture of the multimeter connected to the red and black with the display and power on.

Many thanks

Craig




View attachment 62507



The only reason why I said that is i am a member of another group I put some pictures before joining this group as didn't know about it. And asked for info and 1 person said I can see your module and it's blown.

That's the only reason

Craig
Somebody talking about a "module" probably doesn't know what they're talking about or you've misunderstood what they said. Nobody, who knows about ebikes would use that word. All the parts of an ebike have specific names, like pedal sensor, throttle, control panel, LCD, LED display, motor, motor cable, motor controller, motor hall sensor, hall sensor pcb; if they used the word module, it needs to be referenced to something else, like switch module.

It would probably help us to help you get to a solution if you could link those posts.
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
This is from one of my threads.
And this is the other

Craig
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
Not sure how it works gents I did plug it in and motor and wheel did rotate as It said.

Craig
The self-learning procedure lets the controller figure out the phase, angle and the connection sequence of the phase and hall wires. Each time you do it, it reverses the direction of the motor, so if the motor whirrs, but the wheel doesn't turn, you do it again. Once the wheel is rotating correctly in the right direction, you stop, switch off and disconnect the self-learning wires so that it keeps its settings, otherwise it will attempt the self-learning each time you switch on and send the motor in the wrong direction.

If the self-learning made the wheel rotate, there is nothing wrong with the motor or controller, so you need to look elsewhere for the solution. Did you set p10 to 2, like I said above. It's very difficult to help you when you don't confirm anything. We have no idea where you are or what you've done, and nothing you say makes sense.
 
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saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
This is from one of my threads.
And this is the other

Craig
AFAICS, those guys are just shouting random things at you. There's no basis to anything they say. When an ebike doesn't work, you test it to find the cause. If a controller has blown or a MOSFET shorted, you can see it in the measurements, then you know what to do.
 

matthewslack

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 26, 2021
2,356
1,592
... I'm sure the red and black going to the rear of the bike were 36v or something along those lines ...
It's more useful if can say what those wires connect. Then we know what you are talking about. What is at each end of them? Are these the big red and black from battery to controller, or small red and black to rear lights, or small wires part of a larger group of wires in a multi way connector?
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
It's more useful if can say what those wires connect. Then we know what you are talking about. What is at each end of them? Are these the big red and black from battery to controller, or small red and black to rear lights, or small wires part of a larger group of wires in a multi way connector?
They are big red and black wires coming from the battery to the motor .
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
When you say 36V 'on the red and black to the motor' is that really what you mean? The only red and black in the actual cable that connects to the motor are small wires to power the hall sensors, and the red should be 5V.

Hence the confusion. Be precise!
These are my wires which are going to the motor and the red and black are thickish wires and are 37.6volt.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
They are big red and black wires coming from the battery to the motor .
There are no big red and black wires going to the motor. You're all mixed up about what's what. The motor has three thick blue, yellow and green wires plus 5 thin blue, yellow, green, red and black, which is where you're supposed to measure the 5v. They're indicated in your picture of the controller as "three phrase line" and "hall sensor". They mean three phase, but they're Chinese and doing there best.
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
There are no big red and black wires going to the motor. You're all mixed up about what's what. The motor has three thick blue, yellow and green wires plus 5 thin blue, yellow, green, red and black, which is where you're supposed to measure the 5v. They're indicated in your picture of the controller as "three phrase line" and "hall sensor". They mean three phase, but they're Chinese and doing there best.
Oh my God I am so sorry the red and black are thin wires going in the motor loom and are 4.3volt as per picture. Once again I am so sorry l.and the temp has gone up.62512
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
7,830
3,612
Telford
Oh my God I am so sorry the red and black are thin wires going in the motor loom and are 4.3volt as per picture. Once again I am so sorry l.and the temp has gone up.View attachment 62512
OK, we're getting somewhere now. That means the controller is switched on. You can forget about all these tests now because you said that the motor turns when you do the self-learning. That eliminates any problems with the motor or hall sensors.

Do the self-learning test again until the wheel turns slowly forward, then switch off and disconnect the self-learning wires from each other.

Switch on again and test with a throttle, making sure that the red wire goes to red on the controller side, black goes to black and whatever the other colour is goes to whatever's on the other side. If you don't have a throttle, you can simply bridge the red wire to the white one on the throttle connector. Make sure the wheel is off the ground when you do that because it should make it spin, and make sure that you don't have level zero selected on the LCD. When you've done all that, report back.
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
I have just measured i hope this is right from black to thin green thin blue and thin yellow and thing white.
Blue 4.93volts
Yellow 235.8ohms
Green 229.6ohms
White 4.67 volts
 

Scunnybuddy

Pedelecer
Mar 24, 2025
37
1
OK, we're getting somewhere now. That means the controller is switched on. You can forget about all these tests now because you said that the motor turns when you do the self-learning. That eliminates any problems with the motor or hall sensors.

Do the self-learning test again until the wheel turns slowly forward, then switch off and disconnect the self-learning wires from each other.

Switch on again and test with a throttle, making sure that the red wire goes to red on the controller side, black goes to black and whatever the other colour is goes to whatever's on the other side. If you don't have a throttle, you can simply bridge the red wire to the white one on the throttle connector. Make sure the wheel is off the ground when you do that because it should make it spin, and make sure that you don't have level zero selected on the LCD. When you've done all that, report back.
I have bridged the red to blue as it says for the throttle but it doesn't do anything I have 5volt on the red going to the blue when linked. Could you look at the drawing and just clarify that it is the red,black and blue for theottle62513