mounting a hub-motor, torque-arm, .. man thats hard work
- Thread starter kraeuterbutter
- Start date
no progress in the moment..
had to lear for some exams..
however:
my buddy sent me this today, thats how he will make it..
he will make it this week, so i can mount it the coming weekend..
had to lear for some exams..
however:
my buddy sent me this today, thats how he will make it..
he will make it this week, so i can mount it the coming weekend..
Hi kraeuterbutter,
Good luck with the exams.
That is so similar to what I made last weekend for my new project.
I only had some 30 mm wide steel strip. There is room on the bike for bigger ones and next time I will try to get some wider plate in stainless steel. On a milling machine, you cannot make it exactly as drawn - you cannot make the 12 mm diameter ends on the slot. The production ones are made by stamping or punching out of a sheet.
Nick
Good luck with the exams.
That is so similar to what I made last weekend for my new project.
I only had some 30 mm wide steel strip. There is room on the bike for bigger ones and next time I will try to get some wider plate in stainless steel. On a milling machine, you cannot make it exactly as drawn - you cannot make the 12 mm diameter ends on the slot. The production ones are made by stamping or punching out of a sheet.
Nick
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No, that sounds like a job for a CNC machine. I had a vice on top of a rotary table on top of the milling bed. At least it was more challenging than doing it with a file.Have you tried working both axes together, Nick? It's an interesting exercise in coordination
Yes, the same Miles.
Nick
I made mine by using a 5mm slot drill to do a 10mm square hole, then stuck a 10mm slot drill in to approximate the end radius (which is really 6mm radius),
This made a fairly good fit on the shaft, although was a pig to machine, as I chose to use a bit of scrap 10g 316 stainless that I had lying in the corner of the workshop. I really detest machining stainless, especially as my small vertical milling machine doesn't have a particularly slow speed option. I keep promising myself a new machine, but the cost of something half-decent is too much for the odd hobby job.
Jeremy
This made a fairly good fit on the shaft, although was a pig to machine, as I chose to use a bit of scrap 10g 316 stainless that I had lying in the corner of the workshop. I really detest machining stainless, especially as my small vertical milling machine doesn't have a particularly slow speed option. I keep promising myself a new machine, but the cost of something half-decent is too much for the odd hobby job.
Jeremy
so..
now there was some progress:
cut with an "endless wire"...
and sandblasted
thanxs to my flying buddy Jochen
(thats him, when he helped me, to convert my 3,5ccm 1:8 scale nitro-buggy to brushless electric)
so: mounted to the bike:
it was a perfect fit from the very first second
now there was some progress:
cut with an "endless wire"...
and sandblasted
thanxs to my flying buddy Jochen
(thats him, when he helped me, to convert my 3,5ccm 1:8 scale nitro-buggy to brushless electric)
so: mounted to the bike:
it was a perfect fit from the very first second
oh...
and meanwhile i have also done some of the wiring..
i will do all the wiring inside the frame:
thats how i make it:
first step is done by an hoover (vacuum cleaner)
the rest i think is self-explanatory from the pictures
and meanwhile i have also done some of the wiring..
i will do all the wiring inside the frame:
thats how i make it:
first step is done by an hoover (vacuum cleaner)
the rest i think is self-explanatory from the pictures
when i was on the RC-flying field and Jochen was giving the parts to me,
my buddies said,
that the parts will be the most luxurious/precious part by far on the whole bike..
(iam well known for fixing every problem normally with adhesive tape...
thats also how most of my rc-planes look like )
my buddies said,
that the parts will be the most luxurious/precious part by far on the whole bike..
(iam well known for fixing every problem normally with adhesive tape...
thats also how most of my rc-planes look like
)so..
meanwhile we have a German Pedelec-forum as well, so i was most time there..
little update:
its working !!!
here a first little video:
YouTube - mein Elektrobike mit 13s1p Fepo4 2300mah
the hill in the middle of the video is 20%
on the left side of that hill it is 30%, its the one i drive down later
the bike makes it up this hill as well..
Setup ?
42,9V nominal 13s1p Fepo4 with 2.3Ah
the battery stays absolut cool, the motor as well,
only the controller gets warm..
also interesting finding:
with 14,8V battery and rc-modell-controller i have more torque than with 42V and bikecontroller..
how can this be ?
bike-controller: 14A limit
wereas i get ~25A with the 14,8V and rc-plane-controller (which stays also absolutely cool)
yes, looks not that nice with the battery there (just for testing, two RC-Heli-batteries which result in 13s1p)
batteryweight: 996g
here a little eagle-tree-measuring with
14,8Volt
=> 12km tripp
=> made ~450meters of hight
=> used only 3.4Ah from the 14,8Volt-4,4Ah batterypack
http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Bilder2/Radnabenmotor_Vorderreifen/Testlauf 3/MESSUNG_erstesmal Burgruine _ Beschriftet.jpg
meanwhile we have a German Pedelec-forum as well, so i was most time there..
little update:
its working !!!
here a first little video:
YouTube - mein Elektrobike mit 13s1p Fepo4 2300mah
the hill in the middle of the video is 20%
on the left side of that hill it is 30%, its the one i drive down later
the bike makes it up this hill as well..
Setup ?
42,9V nominal 13s1p Fepo4 with 2.3Ah
the battery stays absolut cool, the motor as well,
only the controller gets warm..
also interesting finding:
with 14,8V battery and rc-modell-controller i have more torque than with 42V and bikecontroller..
how can this be ?
bike-controller: 14A limit
wereas i get ~25A with the 14,8V and rc-plane-controller (which stays also absolutely cool)
yes, looks not that nice with the battery there (just for testing, two RC-Heli-batteries which result in 13s1p)
batteryweight: 996g
here a little eagle-tree-measuring with
14,8Volt
=> 12km tripp
=> made ~450meters of hight
=> used only 3.4Ah from the 14,8Volt-4,4Ah batterypack
http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Bilder2/Radnabenmotor_Vorderreifen/Testlauf 3/MESSUNG_erstesmal Burgruine _ Beschriftet.jpg
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hey, i also tried this little battery from an rc-plane:
yes, realy small (halfe the size of cigarettes)
the yellow color is wood, i surrounded the battery with that for protection against penetration
it weights only 76g !!
11,1Volt and 1350mah
here what i measured:
not bad, isn´t it ?
the hill is a 60m (height) in 550m or how you call that
on some places its between 15,5% and 20,5%
can you see the battery on the bike ?
here the diagramms:
i can make about 120m of height (~ 360 feet) with this little 76g battery !
current and voltage:
you see, this 20A are the limit for that little (nearly 3 years old and so out-to-date) battery
meanwhile there are lipos with same size that can do double currents
yes, realy small (halfe the size of cigarettes)
the yellow color is wood, i surrounded the battery with that for protection against penetration
it weights only 76g !!
11,1Volt and 1350mah
here what i measured:
not bad, isn´t it ?
the hill is a 60m (height) in 550m or how you call that
on some places its between 15,5% and 20,5%
can you see the battery on the bike ?
here the diagramms:
i can make about 120m of height (~ 360 feet) with this little 76g battery !
current and voltage:
you see, this 20A are the limit for that little (nearly 3 years old and so out-to-date) battery
meanwhile there are lipos with same size that can do double currents
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as i said, an interesting finding was:
on (steep) hills, more power with 14,8Volt or 18Volt batteries, than with the 42V Battery and the bike-controller (with current limit)
often you hear people: "i have hills, so i need 36V instead of 24V or 48V instead of 24V)
for that bafang-motor i have its not true..
look here:
click for bigger, more details:
http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Bilder2/Radnabenmotor_Vorderreifen/Testlauf 3/MESSUNG_erstesmal Burgruine _ Beschriftet.jpg
on that over 30% hill at our castle i saw current of 25A with that 14,8V battery
with 42V the currents would be MUCH MUCH higher, it would burn the motor emediatley (60A and more)
so for that reason, there is a current-limiter in the bike-controller, which limits the current to 14A
how does it do this ?
it reduces Throttle more and more...
so: when i see 25A with the 14,8V-battery an rc-planecontroller without current-limitator,
than the bike-controller must reduce the 42V to a voltage much lower than 14,8V, so the amps are only 14A
result: i have only half (or less) power than with the 14,8V setup
so why not use 14,8V instead of 42V ?
hmm... why not..
seriously, iam considiring to drive in future with much less volt than with 42V
the downside of 14,8V: it drives only ~15km/h
the best thing would be: two batteries in series for going flat and fast
and for hills paralleling the batteries and a much higher amp-limit-setting (maybe 30A)
on (steep) hills, more power with 14,8Volt or 18Volt batteries, than with the 42V Battery and the bike-controller (with current limit)
often you hear people: "i have hills, so i need 36V instead of 24V or 48V instead of 24V)
for that bafang-motor i have its not true..
look here:
click for bigger, more details:
http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Bilder2/Radnabenmotor_Vorderreifen/Testlauf 3/MESSUNG_erstesmal Burgruine _ Beschriftet.jpg
on that over 30% hill at our castle i saw current of 25A with that 14,8V battery
with 42V the currents would be MUCH MUCH higher, it would burn the motor emediatley (60A and more)
so for that reason, there is a current-limiter in the bike-controller, which limits the current to 14A
how does it do this ?
it reduces Throttle more and more...
so: when i see 25A with the 14,8V-battery an rc-planecontroller without current-limitator,
than the bike-controller must reduce the 42V to a voltage much lower than 14,8V, so the amps are only 14A
result: i have only half (or less) power than with the 14,8V setup
so why not use 14,8V instead of 42V ?
hmm... why not..
seriously, iam considiring to drive in future with much less volt than with 42V
the downside of 14,8V: it drives only ~15km/h
the best thing would be: two batteries in series for going flat and fast
and for hills paralleling the batteries and a much higher amp-limit-setting (maybe 30A)
Lots of interesting info there.
Can't be doing that little battery much good pulling that many amps though can it?
Can't be doing that little battery much good pulling that many amps though can it?
yes, its for sure not "good" for the cell
but its normal treatment in rc-hobby-world..
we are used to the fact that batteries last between 50-150cycles.
here a test of this very same cell in labor:
Elektromodellflug - Thunder Power - LiPos im Test
as said: out-of-date meanwhile.. there are better cells
that can do 45Amps in the same leage
but its normal treatment in rc-hobby-world..
we are used to the fact that batteries last between 50-150cycles.
here a test of this very same cell in labor:
Elektromodellflug - Thunder Power - LiPos im Test
as said: out-of-date meanwhile.. there are better cells
that can do 45Amps in the same leage
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