Hoping to increase driver passing distance at night, I've glued front and rear reflectors to my wing mirrors.

[guerney]

Even 2x 3500mah 18650 (18mm x 65mm) cells only give it 7000mah. Is it using those 5000mah 21700 cells? Or has it got 4x 2500 crammed in 40mm x 40mm x 80+mm maybe?

It's quoted capacity could be BS, but other lithium-ion cells are of course available... such as this format, which I spotted last night on my way to work shining away on the road in the dark, attached to a tiny blue LED. I have no idea what this has broken away from, but I'm going to use it to replace a dead 3.7v battery in an old MP3 player. The light has been on continuously for 22 hours so far (as far as I know). 18.8*39mm.

There was a nasty looking burglary/robbery/other at a house a few doors down recently, Police condorned off the road... could be related to that.

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[Nealh]

Any one who has bought the planetx twin front light , check the base plate mounting screws as all mine were lose . On one light they all vibrate lose on the way to work tonight and I nearly lost one light, I just caught it as it was about to fly off.

Tomorrow I will have to find some to replace them and use some loctite on the threads.

 

[guerney]

I've been using trains to get to work - too cold to cycle, my calf muscles can't cope... some sort of circulation problem... therefore I haven't used this light yet. And mine is hanging down so this:

Any one who has bought the planetx twin front light , check the base plate mounting screws as all mine were lose . On one light they all vibrate lose on the way to work tonight and I nearly lost one light, I just caught it as it was about to fly off.

Tomorrow I will have to find some to replace them and use some loctite on the threads.

...was very worrying. Thanks for the heads-up! I checked and you're right - the screws weren't even finger-tight! So I tightened them a little at a time, not wanting to break the thread... and one of the screw heads snapped off. Surprising, because they're at the very least steel, and may even be stainless. Why the heck didn't they also use glue?

(the white stuff is reflective tape).





Because my light will be hanging upside down, I decided this was a job for superglue+baking soda. While sticking down the base plate, I avoided getting any superglue (just superglue for that bit) into the holes, because there's a metal plate a short distance beyond at least one of them:





Yes I know this looks hideous.... still a bit of tidying and needle-filing to do, but I don't think this base plate is ever coming off - I've filled in the hole with the broken screw head (plus capped another).





It's a good job that I don't care about how anything looks, as long as it works... but I suppose a permanent marker pen could be used to make the superglue + baking soda black or some other colour, after it dries. Applied superglue first, sprinkled over very fine grain food-grade baking soda, applied more superglue - three layers per side. I'll apply threadlocker to the other two screws, when I find my threadlocker... Actually the screw holes didn't bode well for waterproofing, particularly because mine will be mounted upside down... so now I've capped all of the screws with superglue + baking solder and filed them flat.

 

[guerney]

Despite how it was advertised on ebay, I could be wrong but suspect the GoPro extension arm with the ball joint, is being posted from China - Yodel is still reporting it's "At customer location".

Because I've often wondered how it would feel flipping out two of my lollipops, I've ordered another Oxford.

 

[guerney]

Even 2x 3500mah 18650 (18mm x 65mm) cells only give it 7000mah. Is it using those 5000mah 21700 cells? Or has it got 4x 2500 crammed in 40mm x 40mm x 80+mm maybe?

Aha! It's just 2 X 18650s

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[WheezyRider]

It's quoted capacity could be BS, but other lithium-ion cells are of course available... such as this format, which I spotted last night on my way to work shining away on the road in the dark, attached to a tiny blue LED. I have no idea what this has broken away from, but I'm going to use it to replace a dead 3.7v battery in an old MP3 player. The light has been on continuously for 22 hours so far (as far as I know). 18.8*39mm.

There was a nasty looking burglary/robbery/other at a house a few doors down recently, Police condorned off the road... could be related to that.

View attachment 50139

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Looks like a Lipo cell from a disposable e-cig. I see a lot of them lying around these days. Millions of them are thrown out each week in the UK.

 

[MikelBikel]

It's quoted capacity could be BS, but other lithium-ion cells are of course available... such as this format, which I spotted last night on my way to work shining away on the road in the dark, attached to a tiny blue LED. , but I'm going to use it to replace a dead 3.7v battery in an old MP3 player. The light has been on continuously for 22 hours so far (as far as I know). 18.8*39mm.

View attachment 50139

Hot Sell 20400 3.7v 1450mah Li Polymer 21350 Cylinder Battery In Stock - Buy 20400 21350 3.7v 1450mah 20600 Lipo Cylinder Battery,20400 21350 3.7v 1450mah Lipo 20600 Cylinder Battery Rechargeable Battery,20400 3.7v 1450mah 21350 Lipo 20600 Battery Cylindrical Lithium Battery Cell Product on Alibaba.com

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Maybe a disposable Vape battery, y. BigCliveDotCom on YouTube shows teardown and reuse in diy solar lights, etc.
Always wondered about lipo's, but put off by talk of unreliability, magic smoke
:-(.
If it's a light with 2xCells in series (2s1p) will only be 3200mAh? Unless they're in parallel with a buck cct?

E.g. "An LED with a 3.3 V f works very well with an 18650 and resistor. You did not specify the part number of lumens for your LED. My choice would a Cree XP-3G, the most efficient (185 lm/w) high power white LED. Over 600 lumens and 3.1V @ 1500 mA.
(https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/372646/circuit-for-driving-a-5-wat-led-via-18650-battery)

 

[WheezyRider]

I've been using trains to get to work - too cold to cycle, my calf muscles can't cope... some sort of circulation problem... therefore I haven't used this light yet. And mine is hanging down so this:



...was very worrying. Thanks for the heads-up! I checked and you're right - the screws weren't even finger-tight! So I tightened them a little at a time, not wanting to break the thread... and one of the screw heads snapped off. Surprising, because they're at the very least steel, and may even be stainless. Why the heck didn't they also use glue?

(the white stuff is reflective tape).


View attachment 50141


Because my light will be hanging upside down, I decided this was a job for superglue+baking soda. While sticking down the base plate, I avoided getting any superglue (just superglue for that bit) into the holes, because there's a metal plate a short distance beyond at least one of them:


View attachment 50142


Yes I know this looks hideous.... still a bit of tidying and needle-filing to do, but I don't think this base plate is ever coming off - I've filled in the hole with the broken screw head (plus capped another).


View attachment 50143


It's a good job that I don't care about how anything looks, as long as it works... but I suppose a permanent marker pen could be used to make the superglue + baking soda black or some other colour, after it dries. Applied superglue first, sprinkled over very fine grain food-grade baking soda, applied more superglue - three layers per side. I'll apply threadlocker to the other two screws, when I find my threadlocker... Actually the screw holes didn't bode well for waterproofing, particularly because mine will be mounted upside down... so now I've capped all of the screws with superglue + baking solder and filed them flat.

Still messing with baking soda and superglue? Pencil lead with a bit of baking soda is much better

 

[guerney]

Still messing with baking soda and superglue? Pencil lead with a bit of baking soda is much better

The baking soda/+graphite + superglue combinations are a boon for making repairs and small difficult to source hardish non-metallic objects.

I read somewhere filaments are now available which contain metals, suitable for use in lower cost 3D printers - what's the strongest material your 3D printer is capable of forming? If you 3D print frameworks to fill with graphite + superglue, you could make durable complex shaped objects quite accurately? (after a bit of filing down etc.)

 

[guerney]

Maybe a disposable Vape battery, y. BigCliveDotCom on YouTube shows teardown and reuse in diy solar lights, etc.

I think I've still got the old dead MP3 player battery somewhere - I'll check to see if it's lipo, and measure what voltage it charges with.

Cheers, interesting channel:

https://www.youtube.com/@bigclivedotcom/videos

Particularly this - I need to fix an old amp at some point, and I think it's a power supply fault:

 

[WheezyRider]

The baking soda/+graphite + superglue combinations are a boon for making repairs and small difficult to source hardish non-metallic objects.

I read somewhere filaments are now available which contain metals, suitable for use in lower cost 3D printers - what's the strongest material your 3D printer is capable of forming? If you 3D print frameworks to fill with graphite + superglue, you could make durable complex shaped objects quite accurately? (after a bit of filing down etc.)

I mainly print with PLA. It's not the strongest/toughest, but it is the cheapest and easiest to print and doesn't make nasty fumes. PETG is stronger and is still relatively easy to print and is quite popular these days. Many printers can print metal containing filaments now, but it's mainly for aesthetics rather than strength etc. They make the printed object quite heavy too. To get metal fillers to add strength, you have to sinter the printed object to burn out the matrix printing material and fuse the metal particles together. It's quite an art, as the object shrinks as the matrix is burned away. Typically this involves specialised printers and furnaces. I have done it, but it is very expensive.

I mainly use superglue and filler material when I print an object in several parts. With filament printing you have to think about which direction the main stresses will be applied to the printed object. This is because strength is much higher along the layers than across layers. So to get maximum strength, sometimes you have to print objects as several parts, with optimal orientation for each part. The other thing is overhangs. You can add supports to overhanging areas, but then you have to cut them off and clean up afterwards (unless you have a two headed printer and can print PVA supports which can be dissolved away with water - but even then, PVA does not always print so well and can leave surface residues). So sometimes you have to print the overhangs as separate parts and glue them on afterwards. Superglue and fillers are great for this. Then use fine sandpaper to get a smooth finish and then use a spray paint for plastics to create a really professional look.

3D printing a frame and then filling may be ok for small parts, but it would be a lot of work for larger objects. Superglue does attack a lot of plastic too, so it is possible the process could distort the frame, with the heat and chemical reaction. Would be interesting to try. Other interesting fillers with super glue are cotton wool or ash of various kinds. Maybe you could 3D print the frame, wrap it in toilet paper and then add the superglue to that.

 

[guerney]

As I suspected... the ebay listing was not lyring: Yodel delivery, but after the ball jointed arm was carried from China by air. Allows fine adjustment of the verticality of the reflector it will hold, seems quite solid, maybe too solid - I might add a link to the end to make it yield more easily, when the second Oxford lollipo (which will arrive in a day or two) is attached, gets bumped by objects and persons.

 

[guerney]

3D printing a frame and then filling may be ok for small parts, but it would be a lot of work for larger objects. Superglue does attack a lot of plastic too, so it is possible the process could distort the frame, with the heat and chemical reaction. Would be interesting to try. Other interesting fillers with super glue are cotton wool or ash of various kinds. Maybe you could 3D print the frame, wrap it in toilet paper and then add the superglue to that.

I daresay quite strong (compared to say PVC of the same thickness) body panels of any shape could be formed, with the right finely 3D printed framework, filled with superglue + graphite. Acetone could be used for a slightly smoother finish? At this time of year, I get obsessed with fairings to slow movement of cold air around my legs while cycling...

 

[guerney]

A shade shorter than 40cm when fully extended. Bolt needs changing, shortening, ziptie through the end hole (far right), or superglue + baking soda/graphite to secure the Oxford lollipop arm, to just that end (plastic) part on the right etc. etc. or other.

 

[guerney]

I've changed the bolts around, and it seems I don't need glue or zipties. It's firm but soft.... the GuerneySiderating Illumimaker™ is aliiiiive! IT LIIIIIIVVVVESSSS!!! Next is the road test. I hope to be as happy as a dog with two lollipops.

 

[guerney]

Now complete with lights. The red light @Nealh suggested, is more securely held in place, now that I've rolled some self-amalgamating rubber tape around the Oxford lollipop - I gave it a good waggle test. Cropped the photos only.











With phone camera flash. Car headlights will of course be brighter:

 

[guerney]

GuerneySiderating Illumimakers™ are available to buy for a million pounds each (send large stamped self-addressed suitcase stuffed with money to P.O.Box Guerney, Guernsey), or you can make your own using bits from ebay and Amazon.

 

[matthewslack]

Fork handles. Not quite so bright.

 

[guerney]

No, never had a problem. Get some looks as they go by, but they have never pulled me over.

I think that could be because yours looks very well made, and people might assume it's a safety product you've bought for the purpose.

 

[guerney]

@WheezyRider - you cracked this nut a couple of years ago. For those without immediate access to 3D printers, I think this is a good alternative.

Train strike. Cycling to work in the late afternoon during rush hour, as what passes for sunlight was quenched by the horizon... was an absolute joy. Not one car cut in front too close, and the one out of hundreds of vehicles which tried, did so with such verve, that move couldn't have been done with anything other than a very low slung sporty hatchback - and it still didn't manage to cut in front too close. It didn't do a close pass either. In sharp contrast to before, everything stayed away from me, like I was surrounded by an invisible forcefield. No, I don't think I'm overstating things. My big superbright red flashing light at the back did most of the heavy lifting, but this sidearm hit it home. Even taxi drivers stayed away! The one vehicle which came even close to a close pass on my way back in the dark, was a large white van, and as we know those are quite often driven by the deranged... and the closest that got was 1.5m. A BMW 7 series also passed closer than I expected, but not as close as the large white van - the overly wealthy are also often deranged. The proximity of just three vehicles in over1.5 hours of rush hour traffic was notable, but none passed too close! I could bloody well get used to this.

The sidearm performed as intended when encountering obstacles - it gave way without affecting steering... which I discovered after I got stuck in total gridlock and decided to mount the pavement, then had to make room for pedestrians who suddenly appeared... I slowed down, moved towards some railings, the sidearms rattled over them, no harm done, and I quickly and easily straightened the arm immediately afterwards. The last two GoPro extension arms are plastic, and there is just the right amount of friction on the arm with the bolt through it is tightened to the max - when the first of those two end pieces is alloy, the arm locks into position too rigidly.

I was easily able to swivel the arm down to filter through traffic. With the arm folded down, the PlanetX light remains highly visible, under the right hand end of my handlebar. It was nice to see expressions of amusement and confusion on the faces of pedestrians, drivers and other cylists. And it folds away neatly when I fold my bike. The one Police car I saw, was on the other side of the road travelling in the opposite direction - it didn't make horrible shrieking noises, flash blue lights, or otherwise beckon hither, or engage in hot pursuit. I could post some video, but because nothing actually happens, it'd be quite boring to watch. It's still early days, but I'm quite astonished and delighted at how effective this is. This was well worth making. I'll do a proper review after six months of use.