Gin X

[LesG]

It is not very reassuring if they don't know the difference between Ah and W, is it?

TBH I think both the owners are foreign and can be a little confused at times from what I have read

 

[LesG]

I don't think the battery is a deal-breaker. There are always workarounds when you can't get the right battery for a bike like that with all standard Chinese parts.

There's another problem, though. Whoever thought that it's a good idea to put the battery lock in that position is nuts. It'll fill up with crud in no time, then become inoperable. That's if salt from winter roads doesn't sieze it up. That's probably not going to be a problem if you never take the battery out, but you'll probably have to drill the lock every time you do. That switch looks a bit vulnerable too.

When I contacted the company about this, their answer was just to cover it with something to protect it......huuuummmm

 

[Saracen]

MY opinion hub drive no thanks

My personal thought would be a pre owned GOOD bike and a kit

Do I Need a Hub Drive or a Mid-Drive Motor?

Which ebike system is best for you: a hub drive or a mid-drive motor? You’ll want to consider cost, use case, and the motor’s location on the bike, among other factors.

www.cyclevolta.com

Compare Hub vs Mid-Drive Motors for Electric Bikes

Discover the advantages and disadvantages of both Hub Motors and Mid Drive Motors for E-Bikes.

himiwaybike.com

.

 

[Saracen]

I did like this

 

[thelarkbox]

£350 is quite a good price isn't it?
I haven't got a bike now and although you hint that it is easy to do a conversion I know I would mess it up lol

£350 is far from the worst battery cost, and can be a good price for a battery but something like 20ah 48v (960w)with branded quality cells. not 48v 13ah.. (614w) with unknown cells imho..
(watt(hours) = volts x Amp(hours))

But non generic batteries cost more to package and produce so some premium is reasonable to expect, however too many take the opportunity for exploitation imho.

As for a conversion.. its not for everyone but is a viable solution for many.

A front wheel hub motor conversion is simply a wheel exchange and some bolt on cable tie on of the controller battery and handlebar kit plugging it together, and tidying up the cables.. watch a couple of youtube vids..

you can hit a hicup, thats what this place is for.. the kit i bought for my rear wheel conversion (bit more involved changing the gear drive..) came supplied with all the tools needed inc a chain spanner, crank and bottom bracket removal tools and a complete Allen key set. (YosePower)

If still something you dont like the idea of undertaking yourself you might find a local bike shop mechanic prepared to do the job for you?? I walked into the local bike shop recently to find the chap fitting a switch kit for a client (not a kit i would recommend)

 

[Az.]

TBH I think both the owners are foreign and can be a little confused at times from what I have read

British or not, they should know the difference between Watt, Volt, Amper etc. Especially when they claim 25 years experience in manufacturing... Wonder when they started as they both look very young.

Have a look here:

E-Bike

Eleglide is a passionate community dedicated to making electric bikes accessible to our customers and friends who enjoy two-wheel. Eleglide provides e-mountain bikes (M1, M1 Plus, M2), trekking e-bikes (T1, T1 Step-Thru), urban e-bike (Citycrosser), and fat tire e-bike (Tankroll). At Eleglide...

eleglide.com

Maybe you can find something interesting.

 

[LesG]

£350 is far from the worst battery cost, and can be a good price for a battery but something like 20ah 48v (960w)with branded quality cells. not 48v 13ah.. (614w) with unknown cells imho..
(watt(hours) = volts x Amp(hours))

But non generic batteries cost more to package and produce so some premium is reasonable to expect, however too many take the opportunity for exploitation imho.

As for a conversion.. its not for everyone but is a viable solution for many.

A front wheel hub motor conversion is simply a wheel exchange and some bolt on cable tie on of the controller battery and handlebar kit plugging it together, and tidying up the cables.. watch a couple of youtube vids..

you can hit a hicup, thats what this place is for.. the kit i bought for my rear wheel conversion (bit more involved changing the gear drive..) came supplied with all the tools needed inc a chain spanner, crank and bottom bracket removal tools and a complete Allen key set. (YosePower)

If still something you dont like the idea of undertaking yourself you might find a local bike shop mechanic prepared to do the job for you?? I walked into the local bike shop recently to find the chap fitting a switch kit for a client (not a kit i would recommend)

I will look into getting a price for a conversion kit fitted, I am not prepared for the frustration of getting the conversion wrong myself. My research tells me that the front wheel motor is the worse of the 3 motor positions though

 

[LesG]

MY opinion hub drive no thanks

My personal thought would be a pre owned GOOD bike and a kit

View attachment 54563View attachment 54564

Do I Need a Hub Drive or a Mid-Drive Motor?

Which ebike system is best for you: a hub drive or a mid-drive motor? You’ll want to consider cost, use case, and the motor’s location on the bike, among other factors.

www.cyclevolta.com

Compare Hub vs Mid-Drive Motors for Electric Bikes

Discover the advantages and disadvantages of both Hub Motors and Mid Drive Motors for E-Bikes.

himiwaybike.com

.

The mid motor/rear motor discussion could go on for hours it seems, the mid appears to need more maintenance and more expensive to replace, but has better torque on the whole.
I don't really want the hassle of choosing a good bike as I don't really know what constitutes a good bike anyway then the hassle of converting it

 

[Az.]

My research tells me that the front wheel motor is the worse of the 3 motor positions though

Depends on how you like to ride your bike and where.
In my opinion front wheel hub is very good choice for first conversion (unless you want emtb).

Check:

The Santana 3 | Electric Bikes from Woosh

The Santana3, a new lightweight and powerful step through electric bike with 36V 15AH/17AH battery from Woosh.

www.wooshbikes.co.uk

Wisper E-Bike Range Archives

E-Bike brand Wisper has led the UK electric bike market since 2005. The Number 1 UK e-bike brand for quality and service. 0% electric bike finance available

wisperbikes.com

 

[LesG]

British or not, they should know the difference between Watt, Volt, Amper etc. Especially when they claim 25 years experience in manufacturing... Wonder when they started as they both look very young.

Have a look here:

E-Bike

Eleglide is a passionate community dedicated to making electric bikes accessible to our customers and friends who enjoy two-wheel. Eleglide provides e-mountain bikes (M1, M1 Plus, M2), trekking e-bikes (T1, T1 Step-Thru), urban e-bike (Citycrosser), and fat tire e-bike (Tankroll). At Eleglide...

eleglide.com

Maybe you can find something interesting.

I looked at the Eleglide and it has a built in battery, but others on here have said it is better to have the external battery for easy of replacement, there really is so many things to consider, two other things I would like some kind of clarity on are-
1 disc brakes is it really important to have hydraulic brakes, or just a luxury and
2 others have said that front suspension is an unnecessary item to have on the bike, but surely with pot holes, speed bumps etc for road use it is better to have it

 

[Az.]

I looked at the Eleglide and it has a built in battery, but others on here have said it is better to have the external battery for easy of replacement, there really is so many things to consider, two other things I would like some kind of clarity on are-
1 disc brakes is it really important to have hydraulic brakes, or just a luxury and
2 others have said that front suspension is an unnecessary item to have on the bike, but surely with pot holes, speed bumps etc for road use it is better to have it

Eleglide sell bikes with internal and external batteries. They have internal spare batteries for sale, which is a very good thing.

For me hydraulic brakes and suspension are a must. At least front suspension.

 

[saneagle]

I looked at the Eleglide and it has a built in battery, but others on here have said it is better to have the external battery for easy of replacement, there really is so many things to consider, two other things I would like some kind of clarity on are-
1 disc brakes is it really important to have hydraulic brakes, or just a luxury and
2 others have said that front suspension is an unnecessary item to have on the bike, but surely with pot holes, speed bumps etc for road use it is better to have it

1. If the bike has cable disc brakes, it's very easy to replace them with hydraulics. You can get a good pair of hydrauliv brakes for about £40.
2. Suspension helps on a long trip, but it's heavy. Cheap suspension is just springs, which don't improve the ride much. You really need air suspension to get a noticeable difference, and it's normally a bit lighter too, but a lot more expensive. Again, you can upgrade the front forks on most cheap bikes with used air forks from Ebay for about £80 as long as the bike has 26" wheels.

 

[LesG]

Thank you everyone for your input , this really is a great forum even if it does confuse me a little, but that is the thing about forums, lots of people with varying opinions.
I am still not keen on converting a bike so will now search for a ready made hybrid ebike with the following features.

Hydraulic disc brakes
Air suspension forks (although not a deal breaker as per info from Saneagle )
Mid motor
Torque at least 60nm
Highest Wh I can get, but deffo over 400Wh
I'll be luck for 1.5k, but may stretch to 2k

Les

 

[Az.]

Hydraulic disc brakes
Air suspension forks (although not a deal breaker as per info from Saneagle )
Mid motor
Torque at least 60nm
Highest Wh I can get, but deffo over 400Wh
I'll be luck for 1.5k, but may stretch to 2k

Les

Can I confuse you a bit more?

Look for hydraulic brakes or cable disc brakes. It is cheap to upgrade to hydraulic.
Mid drive is not a good choice for a hybrid IMO I would go with rear hub as firs choice. Front hub as second and mid drive as third.
You have a very healthy budget. Keep conversion as an option. You can always pay somebody if you are not confident to do it yourself.

 

[LesG]

Can I confuse you a bit more?

Look for hydraulic brakes or cable disc brakes. It is cheap to upgrade to hydraulic.
Mid drive is not a good choice for a hybrid IMO I would go with rear hub as firs choice. Front hub as second and mid drive as third.
You have a very healthy budget. Keep conversion as an option. You can always pay somebody if you are not confident to do it yourself.

I think I was wanting a mid drive more for the torque as I live at the top of a hill, from what I can tell the rear hub do not have as much torque.
What is your thinking as to why it is not as suitable for a hybrid please?
We have a kind of charity bike repair shop in my nearest town, I shall ask them about the cost of a conversion.
I must admit I like the look of the bikes with battery built into the frame, but that is more to do with looks and battery theft, so a conversion is not out of the question.
I do appreciate your advice and replies.
Les

 

[Nealh]

Highly unlikely air forks will be specced on an OEM EAPC, one will have to buy them and add them .

 

[Az.]

What is your thinking as to why it is not as suitable for a hybrid please?

It is not that it is unsuitable. More like an overkill.
Hybrid bikes by nature are designed for roads and delicate off road cycling. Hub drives offer better reliability and lower cost and are good enough for roads/delicate off road.
Having that said I can't wait to convert my bike with mid drive.

We have a kind of charity bike repair shop in my nearest town, I shall ask them about the cost of a conversion.

That is a great idea. Would be good to have a trusted bike mechanic if you find yourself in need at some point.
Worth to ask for sure.

I must admit I like the look of the bikes with battery built into the frame, but that is more to do with looks and battery theft, so a conversion is not out of the question.

I know what you mean. I love the look of modern ebikes in £2-£10K range. I love less initial price and maintenance costs.

I do appreciate your advice and replies.
Les

if you decide to convert, and give us your postcode we can have a look at second hand suitable bikes in your area.
...or just buy a bike from Woosh or Wisper and don't waste time on research.

 

[saneagle]

I think I was wanting a mid drive more for the torque as I live at the top of a hill, from what I can tell the rear hub do not have as much torque.

Hub motors can give you all the torque you need. Most of my rides are up and down Ironbridge Gorge, which has hills as steep as 30%. I'm relatively heavy and my hub-motor bike gets me up them fine with a bit of pedalling. If you get a bike with 48v instead of 36v, you get 30% more torque than with 36v. Also, the smaller the wheels, the more torque you get. I put the lowest power hub-motor with a low power controller and only 36v in a Brompton with 16" wheels. It could manage a 14% hill without pedalling. 14% is about as much as you're likely to encounter on normal roads.

 

[LesG]

Hub motors can give you all the torque you need. Most of my rides are up and down Ironbridge Gorge, which has hills as steep as 30%. I'm relatively heavy and my hub-motor bike gets me up them fine with a bit of pedalling. If you get a bike with 48v instead of 36v, you get 30% more torque than with 36v. Also, the smaller the wheels, the more torque you get. I put the lowest power hub-motor with a low power controller and only 36v in a Brompton with 16" wheels. It could manage a 14% hill without pedalling. 14% is about as much as you're likely to encounter on normal roads.

Thank you I didn't know that about the wheel size, I have never seen that mentioned before

 

[guerney]

I live at the top of a hill

I also live on a hill. While tackling hills, voltage sag is less likely to stall whichever motor system you choose, if you get a large capacity battery. Here's a still from my helmet camera's video from earlier today - I was low on battery (it's a 19.2Ah) at the beginning of my journey (no time to charge) but despite that, I still managed to ascend 208ft and more to get home. Which was nice, and very very easy. Sagged voltage is visible on the display.