Front hub 48v motor for very hilly area

[anotherkiwi]

Can you get the 48v500w SWX02 in a higher speed winding? You will have plenty of torque with a 20" wheel so a winding around 300 rpm would be ideal. If you want an idea of how far these motors can be pushed https://etrike.wordpress.com/2016/07/22/electric-hub-motor-tuning/ is a good read.

 

[BidelloZ]

Nice article, thanks.
So an SWXH (on steel gears) seems to behave even better than a BPM?

Still seems the SWX02 is the best option then, @48v500w that is. Need to check for availability in said rpm. Oh, also, wanted to ask: for a 26’’ wheel I’d want 200rpm or similar right? But since we’re looking at the front wheel of 20 inches, higher speed is actually better?

 

[anotherkiwi]

26" wheel the motor is usually around 260 rpm, 201 rpm motors are for more grunt. 20" wheels often use 325 rpm motors. I would need to see the steepness and the length of those hills you need to climb to form an opinion on which is best. What is your all up weight with the kids? With the slower wind you will be getting 25-27 km/h top speed, the 260 rpm is capable of about 30-33 km/h.

The next step is deciding on controller Amps...

 

[BidelloZ]

Not sure about % of inclines, but I can tell you that getting back home just by pedalling is very very hard.

Oh and I’d say stretched uphill are 200-300m max, a few before reaching home.

I’m 73Kg, kids combined around 42Kg, bike and wooden box prob another 25Kg...

 

[anotherkiwi]

Not sure about % of inclines, but I can tell you that getting back home just by pedalling is very very hard.

Oh and I’d say stretched uphill are 200-300m max, a few before reaching home.

I’m 73Kg, kids combined around 42Kg, bike and wooden box prob another 25Kg...

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

 

[BidelloZ]

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

Excellent stuff, thanks so much. That on the front wheel should do nicely. Even though I’m tempted about rear hubs, I would prefer to keep the option of having an alfine or better hub in the future.

@ woosh I’ve got an email with your reply but can’t see it here. Anyway thanks for the offer, but remember, I’ve got my own battery and I understand you can’t sell the kit without battery.

Cheers

 

[Woosh]

@ woosh I’ve got an email with your reply but can’t see it here. Anyway thanks for the offer, but remember, I’ve got my own battery and I understand you can’t sell the kit without battery.

yes, I keep forgetting that you had already a 48V battery!

 

[BidelloZ]

+160kg motor and battery included. >180 kg the time the kids grow and have bags full of school stuff etc. etc.

If you can do it without a motor then adding 1 kW extra power you should be just fine - 48v x 25 Amp controller with a "500W" SWX02 = about 960W -> 1 kW at the wheel depending on state of charge of the battery.

Btw to be honest I can’t really do it without motor :-D

In fact since where I live is more or less on the top of the town, when going to school in the mornings it’s fairly straightforward, but fortunately most of the afternoons either mom picks the kids up or I do collect one. Some times have to deal with both and bags full of stuff, and I wish I took the car

 

[Nealh]

Buy a hub and combine it with 9 mosfet 22a KT controller and a LCD3, 5, 6 or 8.
The 9 mosfet controller will run cooler then the 6 mosfet and if you want neat ness has easy plug and play connections. The KT LCD has 5 PAS levels so you can be frugal on flat terrain in PAS 1 and then 4 extra PAS levels for more power culminating in PAS 5 for 100% power and a nice easy pedal action in lowish gears for those hills.
KT lcd gives option to reduce amps /current delivery by a simple set up procedure.
Controller and LCD about £75 delivered + £10 odd for a PAS sensor, if want throttle and a brake sensor/cut off factor in another £15 - £20.

 

[Nealh]

SWX02

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

Complete all you need controller kits, 6 & 9 mosfet, from experience 9 mosfet is better.

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Shopping for Cheap Waterproof connector set at chamrider Official Store and more from on Aliexpress.com ,the Leading Trading Marketplace from China

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250w Mxus

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

 

[BidelloZ]

Awesome Neal, thanks so much

 

[vfr400]

Buy a hub and combine it with 9 mosfet 22a KT controller and a LCD3, 5, 6 or 8.
The 9 mosfet controller will run cooler then the 6 mosfet and if you want neat ness has easy plug and play connections. The KT LCD has 5 PAS levels so you can be frugal on flat terrain in PAS 1 and then 4 extra PAS levels for more power culminating in PAS 5 for 100% power and a nice easy pedal action in lowish gears.
KT lcd gives option to reduce amps /current delivery by a simple set up procedure.
Controller and LCD about £75 delivered + £10 odd for a PAS sensor, if want throttle and a brake sensor/cut off factor in another £15 - £20.

I prefer the conventional connectors for two reasons. Firstly, it's much easier to figure out what's wrong when your system doesn't work because you can test all the voltages on them, but if you have the moulded ones, it's really tricky. Secondly, the neatness thing doesn't really work with the moulded ones because the wires are always too long, which means you have to cut some out or find some way of hiding them. With the block connections, you can hide all the excess wires in the bag with the controller. You can still do that with the moulded connectors, but if they're in the bag, you can't see them to look neater.

 

[vfr400]

Don't forget that a high-torque motor like those will break you front forks pretty quickly unless they're steel.

 

[BidelloZ]

Don't forget that a high-torque motor like those will break you front forks pretty quickly unless they're steel.

Oh yeah forks are steel of course, frame is alu. Planning to add torque arms anyway

 

[Nealh]

I'm in agreeance for using the normal multi connections for problem solving, these are available as kit as well it just gives an extra option. I use the non moulded stuff on my bikes but some buyers prefer the moulded option for plug and play. It depends on the users technical ability.

 

[Nealh]

Decide on what you want to buy post the list on here with the links and then we can run an eye over it to see if you have missed anything.
You will need tools for crank arm removal and a way to file the drop outs a bit deeper.

 

[vfr400]

I'm in agreeance for using the normal multi connections for problem solving, these are available as kit as well it just gives an extra option. I use the non moulded stuff on my bikes but some buyers prefer the moulded option for plug and play. It depends on the users technical ability.

It all makes sense if you're an optimist. i guess I'm a pessimist.

 

[BidelloZ]

Decide on what you want to buy post the list on here with the links and then we can run an eye over it to see if you have missed anything.
You will need tools for crank arm removal and a way to file the drop outs a bit deeper.

Many thanks, appreciate the help.

Thanks to the other as well of course.

Toolwise I’ve got everything I need. Fortunately I’m comfortable working with cars and diy in general, but I realise bikes do take some finesse. One thing I’ve never done before is lacing a wheel, will see what my local bike shop says, might have to learn

 

[BidelloZ]

It all makes sense if you're an optimist. i guess I'm a pessimist.

Hahaha, whilst I see the benefit of those tidy plug&play connectors, whoever likes to tweak does need the good ‘ol multiconnectors

 

[vfr400]

Hahaha, whilst I see the benefit of those tidy plug&play connectors, whoever likes to tweak does need the good ‘ol multiconnectors

It's nice to see that someone gets it.