Experiences with Open Source Firmware on the Tongsheng TSDZ2

[harrys]

Put the TSDZ2 on a Raleigh Mixte about six weeks ago. This week I started testing the firmware options. I first got familiar with the visual STM tool to write the eco-cycle 48V "stock" firmware and the bike still worked.

Today, I used embrusa's configurator tool with his current 48V file. It took me a few tries before I figured out the options for an active throttle. During this. I decided to go back to the stock firmware above, to ensure my throttle worked, and when I did, the TSDZ2 did not work at all. No speedometer, battery said dead, and no assist from throttle or pedal assist. A little worried now, but I had loaded those files earlier, so probably pilot error.

I went back to the embrusa loads, and this time got the throttle to work, but no speedometer. On the OEM firmware, I had been using a magnet spacing of 1.5 cm on the speed sensor. Anything less was giving me a jumpy speedometer. I set it to about 4mm space, and the speedometer came alive again. The new firmware must adjust the sensitivity on that sensor? Or the sensor cooled down when I took the bike outside from 18C in garage to 5C.

That was enough. It's cold here, 5C, and I was done. Got a working speedometer and throttle, and seems like I just have to test ride the assist levels. Still have a puzzle of why I cannot get back to factory default, to be solved later.

Here's my question. How to change power modes from the display? I take it I have to enable changes in zero assist mode. Then in either level 2 or 3, I can select a given power mode. Is there a video tutorial for the VLCD5? Do I even want to change modes. Probably not, but want to see it work.

 

[Bikes4two]

I have the vlcd6 which doesn't do anything like mode changes - @Nealh might know about the vlcd5 though?

 

[harrys]

I believe the VLCD6 can do it too, but its awkward, Found a youtube video for the VLCD6, but I could not tell what the guy was doing because there were no words..

Today, I did "[x] Set parameter on startup on the configurator" and reloaded the TSDZ2. Now I could enter the mode change directly by pressing my "light" button. I believe it will work, but I had unchecked the throttle. Bummer. It was too cold at 3C to go test it,

Rolled back the stock firmware with the visual STM tool just to make sure I could do it. I couldn't. Battery display read 1 bar. Motor didn't work. Bricked. I had saved off a copy of the original option bytes file. When reprogrammed the motor with that, it unbricked.

Now I Took it for a ride in cold weather. It's the 750W stock firmware, an improvement over my original 500W settings. If we get a sunny day. I'll try the enbrusa load again,

 

[kiwisibk]

Put the TSDZ2 on a Raleigh Mixte about six weeks ago. This week I started testing the firmware options. I first got familiar with the visual STM tool to write the eco-cycle 48V "stock" firmware and the bike still worked.

Today, I used embrusa's configurator tool with his current 48V file. It took me a few tries before I figured out the options for an active throttle. During this. I decided to go back to the stock firmware above, to ensure my throttle worked, and when I did, the TSDZ2 did not work at all. No speedometer, battery said dead, and no assist from throttle or pedal assist. A little worried now, but I had loaded those files earlier, so probably pilot error.

I went back to the embrusa loads, and this time got the throttle to work, but no speedometer. On the OEM firmware, I had been using a magnet spacing of 1.5 cm on the speed sensor. Anything less was giving me a jumpy speedometer. I set it to about 4mm space, and the speedometer came alive again. The new firmware must adjust the sensitivity on that sensor? Or the sensor cooled down when I took the bike outside from 18C in garage to 5C.

That was enough. It's cold here, 5C, and I was done. Got a working speedometer and throttle, and seems like I just have to test ride the assist levels. Still have a puzzle of why I cannot get back to factory default, to be solved later.

Here's my question. How to change power modes from the display? I take it I have to enable changes in zero assist mode. Then in either level 2 or 3, I can select a given power mode. Is there a video tutorial for the VLCD5? Do I even want to change modes. Probably not, but want to see it work.

I also had problems with the speedometer not working when I had "odometer compensation" enabled. Try to disable it, then it might work again. In general, I have disabled the data display in VLCD5 and the parameter configuarion as well as it is quite confusing as to what data is displayed. If I disable both, only the battery level is displayed at startup. And I find it much better to configure everything with the Java program on my laptop, because you can always start with the last change by loading it at the beginning (the file with the latest date at the bottom).

 

[harrys]

It took a couple of runs thru the STM viusal linke before I understood what I was doing. I wiped out the original program and data files on the motor. Wish I had saved them off. The "stock files" from eco-cycle are not quite the same. Their tutorial should have had us save off those files from a first time use with the motor too.

There is definitely something gpoing on with the reading of the speed sensor in the embrusa firmware. When I use it, I have to move the magnet closer. When I revert to "stock", I have to move it away again.I did tyrn off display daya, and enabled cgange parameters. That is less confusing/ but I had to quit nefore I could explore it further.
,
With the temperature back to a seasonal 4C high. it gets too hard to be programming my bike in the cold. and doing test rides. I want to see if the 36V option will work with a 48V battery, because I have both types.

 

[kiwisibk]

It took a couple of runs thru the STM viusal linke before I understood what I was doing. I wiped out the original program and data files on the motor. Wish I had saved them off. The "stock files" from eco-cycle are not quite the same. Their tutorial should have had us save off those files from a first time use with the motor too.

There is definitely something gpoing on with the reading of the speed sensor in the embrusa firmware. When I use it, I have to move the magnet closer. When I revert to "stock", I have to move it away again.I did tyrn off display daya, and enabled cgange parameters. That is less confusing/ but I had to quit nefore I could explore it further.
,
With the temperature back to a seasonal 4C high. it gets too hard to be programming my bike in the cold. and doing test rides. I want to see if the 36V option will work with a 48V battery, because I have both types.

Forget stock firmware and ST Link software, you just need it to test if the USB connection is working properly. You need just the Emmebrusa Java UI tool to set all needed parameters, I flashed it already plenty of times always without any issue. A couple of hints: disable "Street Mode" set at sartup since it restricts the power of you TSDZ2 tremendously. Set "Advanced Torque Sensor" and "Field Wakening". And set the maximum speed in the Java tool, which should not be taken over by the display. Nothing else. I use eMTB assist mode with following values for all four stages: 4 - 8 -12 - 16. Works like a charm with Emmebrusa, you never want to go back to stock software, believe me....

 

[Nealh]

Tbh I don't think there is a need for saving stock firmware settings , just plug away and make numerous firmware changes till you are happy with the ride input and feel. For me I'm using hybrid mode for my trailer towing, quite good low torque and acceleration from standstill at a low cadence and then good input once on the go with TS and a higher cadence and pedal pressure.
As mentioned street mode needs to be disabled other wise the power is pants.

One upgrade worth doing is to add an extra sealed bearing on each side, one in the spider and the other behind the LH seal.

 

[Nealh]

The voltages afaik are not transferable so a 48v battery is likely to smoke a 36v controller, one can fit a 48v controller as they are one and the same in fitting and one will then have more then the 96rpm max pedal/cadence roatation. Tbh I think if one is buying one then simply opt for the 48v model, the only difference in wattage is the current setting.

 

[kiwisibk]

Tbh I don't think there is a need for saving stock firmware settings , just plug away and make numerous firmware changes till you are happy with the ride input and feel. For me I'm using hybrid mode for my trailer towing, quite good low torque and acceleration from standstill at a low cadence and then good input once on the go with TS and a higher cadence and pedal pressure.
As mentioned street mode needs to be disabled other wise the power is pants.

One upgrade worth doing is to add an extra sealed bearing on each side, one in the spider and the other behind the LH seal.

Why do you need extra sealed bearings? Which ones? Do you have a link?
I have only done the thermal conductivity upgrade with silicone pads...

 

[Nealh]

The extra bearing each side is to support the axle against lateral movement and to ward off the axle snapping beyond the circlip groove. Each bearing is placed on the outer position of the circlip to give the extra support.
#425, #433 & #436details in below thread.
My Cargo bike build. | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community

 

[Bikes4two]

@harrys and @kiwisibk - what version OSF are you both using v20.1c.1 or V20.1c.2?

I'm on 20.1c.1 at the mo and am satisfied with it and being a bit old skool, I didn't see the need to go for 20.1c.2 (as in if it ain't broke, then don't fix it) - maybe I should read the release notes for 20.1c.2?

 

[Nealh]

19 upgrades for 1C.2 version.

List of changes v20.1C.2
		1 - Added "Motor deceleration", adjustable 0-100%.
		2 - Improved torque sensor calibration.
		3 - Added adjustment of the adc offset of the pedal torque.
		4 - Added adjustment of the adc range of the pedal torque.
		5 - Added adjustment of the adc angle of the pedal torque.
		6 - Added estimated calculation "Pedal torque adc step".
		7 - Added "Startup assist", for starting from a stationary on difficult climbs.
		8 - Added "Walk Assist" speed settings, one for each level.
		9 - Added choice Startup boost mode, at zero cadence or at zero speed.
		10 - Improved progressivity in "Cadence Assist" mode.
		11 - Added choice of soc % calculation mode.
		12 - Improved the problem of delay in restarting with bike in motion (from mspider65 v12)
		13 - Modified standing start, softer.
		14 - Fixed an overflow issue in power assist mode.
		15 - Fixed calculation of human power.
		16 - Fixed, coaster brake feature.
		17 - Display of TE and TE1 torque sensor values (VLCD5 only).
		18 - Changed "dead time" value to 2.0 us.
		19 - Cross-check motor current variables, with assistance stop in the presence of incompatible values (possible cause of motor operation without pedalin

 

[kiwisibk]

@harrys and @kiwisibk - what version OSF are you both using v20.1c.1 or V20.1c.2?

I'm on 20.1c.1 at the mo and am satisfied with it and being a bit old skool, I didn't see the need to go for 20.1c.2 (as in if it ain't broke, then don't fix it) - maybe I should read the release notes for 20.1c.2?

I have the latest version, so it should be the C2. I am doing well with it!

 

[Bikes4two]

Thanks @Nealh for the list of changes in v20.1c.2 (and I see there is an 'update 1' to that now).

• I've never looked into the torque sensor calibration side of life as I've always been happy with the 'out of the box' feel - something else to read up on.
• I've only ever used power assist mode so I'm wondering if change 14 will remedy the occasional blips I get where (a) the motor runs on even after I stop pedalling or (b) the loss of assist whilst pedalling - both minor irritations easily remedied by a power off/on- CHANGE 14 - Fixed an overflow issue in power assist mode.
• For info :

• List of changes v20.1C.2 update 1
  		1 - Fixed "Startup assist" feature.
  		2 - Assist without pedaling, can also be activated with negative torque offset.
  		3 - E08 error speed sensor failure, disabled in Walk assist mode.
  		4 - E05 error motor check, monitoring time increased.

 

[kiwisibk]

Can anyone tell me if it is necessary to turn off the Hailong battery with the red power button when the bike is not in use? Or is it enough to turn off the VLCD5 display? Thanks

 

[Nealh]

Turn the battery sw off , it will be a BMS sw so may still draw power and drain the batt over a longer period.

 

[kiwisibk]

Turn the battery sw off , it will be a BMS sw so may still draw power and drain the batt over a longer period.

Can you please explain this a little better? What do you mean by "battery sw" and "BMS"? Thank you

 

[kiwisibk]

Can you please explain this a little better? What do you mean by "battery sw" and "BMS"? Thank you

The reason I ask is that I have seen that when I turn off the battery switch, the kilometers are not stored correctly in the display. The next time I turn it on there are a few missing... what could this be? I have turned off the odometer compensation because I do not use the data display of the emmebrusa firmware.

 

[Bikes4two]

BMS - Battery Management System - the electronics board within the battery casing that controls the charging and discharging of the batteries.

On my vlcd6 setup, I noticed the other evening in my darkened bike shed, that there was a faint glow on the screen even though I'd powered off from the display. Thus I now switch off using the switch on the battery casing.

I can't advise about the kilometre readings on the display as I use a separate cycle computer (one of the Cateye brand) as l can't be bothered to faff around with the one on the vlcd6.

 

[harrys]

Well, I had oddities like throttle not working and speedometer dead with the embrus that I wanted to go back tp ground zero and verify my motor still worked.

i'm convinced the speed sensor works diffrent with embrusa as I have to redo the magnet spacing to get it working with the his firmware. The throttle is just the way the defualts pile up, I guess.

I'm agreed that powering up in street mode is a oorr intro to the firmware, and unless you learn how to switch modes from the display, you're stuck there unless you can configre power up in other modes.

I ran out of quality garage time. No lazy warm afternoons tinkering in the garage It's darn cold now, so I'm not up to changing a parameter and dashing off on a test ride. For the next few months, if the roads are dry and free of ice, I'll just want to ride a bike and not be tuning. So it's the stock FW for now.

For the FW issue, Iused his latest C.2 ?