See you have solved your issue, for anyone else if they ever have the same message .
If the wiring is correct then it is likely that wiring is too long.
If the wiring is correct then it is likely that wiring is too long.
Experiences with Open Source Firmware on the Tongsheng TSDZ2
- Thread starter Swizz
- Start date
To be honest, I am a bit disappointed after the first impression. I have set the Hybrid Assist Mode. There is not much difference between the four levels anymore, not like the stock firmware. I also feel that the stock firmware had more power at the highest level. Can this be? Or maybe I have something set wrong? Have set the settings as described here in the thread, just for a 750W 12.5Ah battery. And at max. A I have set 16 (16A x 48V = 768W).
Now everything is perfect. The default values for the various levels were set much too low. Have now set them in turbo mode to the maximum value. A brute difference!!! Top!
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Be careful using max assist without precautions, the blue drive gear may shear teeth.
Using turbo with high % values may well cause issues with either breakages or overheating the motor, might be ok winter time but during hot weather it my be telling.
Using turbo with high % values may well cause issues with either breakages or overheating the motor, might be ok winter time but during hot weather it my be telling.
Understood, thanks for the advice! Can you give me some advice on what percentage of the maximum value is safe in terms of overheating? Thanks
Is this a metal replacement for the blue gear? Noisier probably...
TONGSHENG TSDZ2B White reduction gear kit TSDZ2 blue nylon or Metal Gear Speed Reducing shaft for electric bicycle Mid Drive Mot - AliExpress 18
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I'm so glad I chose the Bafang BBS01b
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The main advice if maxing out current and watts is to fit the heat mods needed to help keep the motor cooler and an internal temp sensor to monitor the internal heat build up, using an external sensor is no good.
On ES some of the users have cooked the motor coils resulting in demagnitisation and mpotor power loss, keeping the motor below circa 80c is recommended and when any tmp is noted nearing or above 80c one should ease back on the power.
Maxing out the current is not recommended.
Hardware temperature control tsdz2 - Endless Sphere (endless-sphere.com)
I have set the max amps back to 12, as specified for 48V. I also reduced the max on turbo to 450 instead of 500. I did a small tour with quite a climb, pedaling between stage 2 and 3. When I got to the top I stopped to see how hot the engine was. It was very slightly lukewarm.
The luke warm one feels is just the tip of the iceberg as to speak, internally the heat will be far greater (likely 60 -65c ) ok now but if you ride in hot weather as we had this summer then the motor for sure will become toasty. Inside the motor there are many areas which are air voids, air is a very poor heat conductor so scant heat actually reaches the ali exterior which is a good heat conductor. What is needed is to open the motor and fill the voids (even the small 1 or 2mm ones) with heat conducting material so that it is touching the outer casing to physically transfer said heat to be displaced and cooled.
Having upped the %'s one will still be drawing over 500w of power in turbo mode.
Ideally one needs a temp sensor attached the internal motor with a small display on the exterior to monitor how high the temps actually go, if one can be sure internall 75c or less is recorded then on should be ok.
A cheap 2 or 3 quid 5v sensor can easily be added to the motoe body with high temp silicone and the display visible on the out side, one can power the display by simply splicing in to any of the internal Gnd & 5v sources.
Having upped the %'s one will still be drawing over 500w of power in turbo mode.
Ideally one needs a temp sensor attached the internal motor with a small display on the exterior to monitor how high the temps actually go, if one can be sure internall 75c or less is recorded then on should be ok.
A cheap 2 or 3 quid 5v sensor can easily be added to the motoe body with high temp silicone and the display visible on the out side, one can power the display by simply splicing in to any of the internal Gnd & 5v sources.
Wow, thanks for this detailed explanation! So I'll get me something like that
https://amzn.eu/d/2gRUsKJ
according to these instructions
How to improve motor heat dissipation
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Absolutely so (and this guy on YT thinks so too LINK) and folks say that the brass gear is more noisy.
If you're a 'low power' rider like me, (250w, 36v riding mostly in ECO) then you'll be wondering whether to be concerned about overheating. To see if my type of riding might lead to a hot motor, I attached a 'one shot' temperature strip in May'22 to my motor casing and the motor itself. As I've said recently, the motor only ever got hand warm to the touch even during the heatwave period of summer 2022 here in the UK.
Below is a pic of the temperature strip taken a couple of weeks ago (Oct 22) and the temperature never got anywhere near the 77degC low point on the strip (I'll fit a lower temperature range strip next time!). The red stuff is 'red rubber grease' which I apply liberally to the motor casing rubber seal (belts and braces to keep out water) and as can be seen, the 'blob' of grease hasn't got warm enough to melt.
From my handlebar mounted Watt meter, I typically get 100w-200w power delivered by the motor, with the odd peak around 450w-500w when pedalling like furry in a higher power setting (that's the OSF setting of 12amps max doing its work there!).
Should I ever opt for a 500w motor at 48v and be riding at something more than ECO, then I'd be fitting a temperature strip as a first measure before I went tinkering with the motor's 'inards' and possibly creating problems.
Clearly people do have problems with overheating and I wonder if the controller ever gets 'anguished' and causes some of the symptoms reported by affected riders?
Today I made a tour with 25km and about 750 meters of altitude. I have a 12.5Ah 48V Hailong battery. Before the start, the battery was full except for one dash in the VLCD5 display. After arrival just two dashes left. I mostly drove with level two in hybrid mode, which I configured with 150 in power and with 100 in torque assist mode. Since I haven't fitted the engine with the heat conducting pads yet (I'll do it this weekend) it also got pretty warm after all the climbing. What do you guys say about the battery consumption? Reasonable? Or too high? Thanks for your opinions!!!
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Hi All
Ive had the 750w standard kit with LCD5 for about 3 years now. Ive thought about trying the mod but have been enjoying my bike enormously. I think I got lucky with my motor. It coasts really well when not peddling and when switched to no assist. Mine has the thumb throttle also which i sometimes use as well as peddling in turbo model if its a really steep hill. So far my original plastic gear is holding out.
I'm tempted to leave everything as is just because there seems to be a few minor bugs with the mods. I'm happy with the power spread of the stock assist modes. I often use full turbo if I'm just having fun and going a short distance like say 10kms or so. This thing really takes off in the smallest gear at full assist. From 0 to 40kms/h in 7 secs or so. I got a larger front sprocket to increase top speed a little. I enjoy powering along tracks but also enjoy slower meanders also in lowest assist. I guess ive gotten used to how it is set up that I can't be bothered changing and tweaking all the settings to find the right balance between economy and fun.
As a side note my bike has fitted 15 watts of flexible solar panels on each side of the frame and twin mppt solar controllers (the type used to charge electric solar golf carts).
I have not plugged in my bike in over 2 years.
I just park it in the sun and it charges itself.
The panels are laminated plastic and weigh almost nothing . The solar controllers are fanless and quite compact and light also.
My bike is a Merida hard tail pretty standard older MTB. I absolutely love my bike. Its a joy to ride. My battery is only around 6.5ah. Its a 48v brick from a Chinese clone onewheel that I scrapped because it was too dangerous! I'll upload some pics of the bike when I can.
Ive had the 750w standard kit with LCD5 for about 3 years now. Ive thought about trying the mod but have been enjoying my bike enormously. I think I got lucky with my motor. It coasts really well when not peddling and when switched to no assist. Mine has the thumb throttle also which i sometimes use as well as peddling in turbo model if its a really steep hill. So far my original plastic gear is holding out.
I'm tempted to leave everything as is just because there seems to be a few minor bugs with the mods. I'm happy with the power spread of the stock assist modes. I often use full turbo if I'm just having fun and going a short distance like say 10kms or so. This thing really takes off in the smallest gear at full assist. From 0 to 40kms/h in 7 secs or so. I got a larger front sprocket to increase top speed a little. I enjoy powering along tracks but also enjoy slower meanders also in lowest assist. I guess ive gotten used to how it is set up that I can't be bothered changing and tweaking all the settings to find the right balance between economy and fun.
As a side note my bike has fitted 15 watts of flexible solar panels on each side of the frame and twin mppt solar controllers (the type used to charge electric solar golf carts).
I have not plugged in my bike in over 2 years.
I just park it in the sun and it charges itself.
The panels are laminated plastic and weigh almost nothing . The solar controllers are fanless and quite compact and light also.
My bike is a Merida hard tail pretty standard older MTB. I absolutely love my bike. Its a joy to ride. My battery is only around 6.5ah. Its a 48v brick from a Chinese clone onewheel that I scrapped because it was too dangerous! I'll upload some pics of the bike when I can.
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As you say, the OSF does have minor bugs.
In the one year I've been running OSF I'd say the advantages of a quieter motor and the flexibility in tailoring the motor response, far outweigh the odd software glitch.
Having said that if you are happy with the OEM setup then don't bother with OSF unless you like tinkering just for the hell of it.
In the one year I've been running OSF I'd say the advantages of a quieter motor and the flexibility in tailoring the motor response, far outweigh the odd software glitch.
Having said that if you are happy with the OEM setup then don't bother with OSF unless you like tinkering just for the hell of it.
The one loss with the stock firmware is the surging effect at higher cadence and power levels.. The torque sensor is quite sensitive and adjusts quickly.. Im guessing the mod has a smoother way of adjusting power and less responsive to small changes in foot pressure. And likely more efficient also due to not needing to adjust power so often.